YT is a German direct-to-consumer mountain bike brand known for its offering of very reasonably-priced bikes with quality components. Reviewed here is one such example; the YT Capra MX Core 3. Priced at $4,599 USD (£4,599), this 170mm travel enduro bike fetches you a lot of bang for your buck.

A full carbon frame is fronted by a RockShox Zeb Ultimate fork paired with a Super Deluxe Ultimate shock. It rolls on a Crankbrothers Synthesis Enduro Wheelset, and is driven by a SRAM GX Eagle AXS drivetrain. These are just some of the highlight components on this build. In the context of a sale price of $3,499 USD, one might even call the YT Capra MX Core 3 an affordable MTB. Sure, it’s not CostCo affordable, or Decathlon affordable, but sat beside a similarly-priced Trek Slash, the value-for-money is undeniable.

But, value-for-money is in the context of overall performance, right? It may look good on paper, but if it leaves you wanting on the trail…

To better-equip prospective customers with an idea of that overall performance, we tested the Capra MX Core 3 over a two month period. Terrain varied from Bike Park laps in Leogang, Lenzerheide and Wales, to more pedal-focused loops of some EDR Tweed Valley tracks. Detailed insight below.

YT Capra MX Core 3 | An Overview

At risk of stating the obvious, the YT Capra MX has a 29″ front wheel and a 27.5″ rear wheel. This frameset is dedicated to that configuration. There is a full 29″ Capra. YT say that one is aimed at out-and-trail riding speed. Meanwhile, the MX tested here is the better option for Bike Park laps, or shorter riders like myself.

Kinematic

The Capra Core 3 runs a full carbon frame, with a four-bar linkage that positions the rear shock horizontally within the front triangle; YT call the platform the V4L, or the Virtual Four Link. The brand doesn’t don’t publish leverage curve information, but a trip to their website does yield anti-squat and anti-rise graphs. While we recognise these numbers are highly contextual, and don’t really paint a complete picture of how the suspension performs, we understand some readers will appreciate seeing them.

As for the leverage ratio, we do know the Capra MX is amenable to the progressivity of an air shock, as well as the linearity of a coil shock. While most models come with an air shock, the Uncaged 11 model released recently comes with an Ohlins TTX22 M coil shock.

Geometry

The Capra MX is available in Sizes S-XXL. The S-L frames all run a 433mm chainstay length, while the XL and XXL frames get a longer rear end of 438mm. Reach spans a 424mm to 504mm range, with the large coming in at 464mm. Seat tubes aren’t the shortest we’ve seen (445mm on the large), but should nevertheless be very workable for the vast majority of riders. The small gets a 125mm dropper, the medium a 150mm dropper, while the L-XXL run 200mm.

Geometry is adjustable by virtue of a flip-chip at the lower shock mount, though we rode the Capra MX only in the low position. That gives it a 64° head angle, 77.5° effective seat tube angle (71° actual) with the BB at 346mm. The high geo position doesn’t alter things too dramatically; the BB is raised by 5mm, the head angle steepened to 64.3°, and the effective seat tube angle moves to 77.8°. Click to enlarge the geometry chart below for more details.

Key Frame Details

• Press-fit Bottom Bracket
• ISCG 05 Tabs for Bash Guard and Chain Guide
• SRAM UDH (Transmission-compatible)
• Boost 148mm Spacing
• 31.6mm diameter seat tube
• Fully guided internal cable routing

Ride Impressions | YT Capra MX

At 163cm tall (5ft 4″), I tested the Capra MX in size small with a reach of 424mm and a seat tube length of 395mm. In the context of other bikes I have tested recently, that’s quite short. Honestly, the bike’s ease of handling has made me question my recent purchase of a frame with a 447mm reach, but that’s a story for another time.

I switched out a few fit-related parts. The 125mm YT Postman dropper was replaced by a 150mm OneUp V2, delivering 25mm more clearance in the context of my 621mm saddle height. I also cut the 800mm Renthal bar down to 740mm, and swapped the SDG Bel-Air saddle for an SQlab 60X Infinergy Ergowave Active 2.1 saddle.

While I ran the stock SRAM GX Eagle AXS drivetrain for the first few rides, I spent the majority of my time running the latest Transmission version thereof.

I opted to position the saddle forward on its rails. That’s not because I deem the effective seat tube angle of 77.5° terribly slack, but because I have sit bone discomfort associated with an old injury, and this position alleviates it somewhat. It does force more weight onto my hands, though. On flat fire roads, that can be a little annoying, but I spend most of the time winching up inclines, so it’s a bit of a non-issue.

Climbing

While this set up may be considered extreme by some, it comes in very handy on steeper climbs, helping to keep weight centered. It certainly goes some way to offsetting the wandering tendencies of a slack 64° head angle. I’ve had no trouble cleaning some steep, tight and technical singletrack climbs on the Capra MX. It is a good climber, but the Merida ONE-SIXTY pips it in this department, likely thanks to the reduced rearward bias afforded by a steeper seat tube angle.

The bike has a very neutral pedalling character. In the climbing gears, there’s no noticeable sucking down or extension of the shock away from sag. Indeed, my experience of the Capra’s climbing efficiency is consistent with the anti-squat values published on the YT website. On the flip side, laying down the power in the smaller sprockets of the cassette comes with pronounced pedal bob which can make it feel a bit sluggish in a sprint.

Descending

I ran the YT Capra MX in the low geometry position throughout the test period. The RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate shock comes with 2 volume spacers as stock, which I found to be appropriate. A pressure of 106 PSI put sag just shy of 30% for my 60 kg. I left the rebound and low speed compression damping fully open, with high speed compression at either one or two clicks from fully open, depending on the nature of the tracks.

Finding a sweet spot with the RockShox Zeb Ultimate fork proved troublesome. I removed the single token that is stock on this build, and went with 38.5 PSI for the vast majority of the test period. That is a little under the minimum recommended pressure from RockShox but I found it helped me use more of the fork’s 170mm travel. I ran rebound and HSC damping fully open, with LSC at 4 clicks from fully open.

For bike park laps, I bumped the pressure up to 42 PSI. On these faster tracks, I was happy to trade out travel usage for faster rebound speed over braking bumps. While this delivered a marked improvement in traction on rougher off-camber sections, it remained insufficient to deliver safe, consistent traction on the fastest sections.

The Capra MX is very intuitive to handle. The bike’s steering geometry rewards an aggressive stance, delivering a very natural feel that gives me a high level of control. In comparison to the slightly longer Merida ONE-SIXTY, another MX enduro bike of similar travel numbers, handling of the YT comes more naturally to me.

I felt no real need to deviate from the 50mm stem and 20mm rise Renthal bar. However, I did find myself benefiting from a more comfortable descending position that came with the 35mm rise bar from OneUp; it certainly enhanced my confidence in steeper terrain. It could be a good idea for YT and other manufacturers to leave the fork’s steerer tube a little longer; that will allow riders to experiment with ride height without having to shell out for a new bar.

Nevertheless, I got pretty comfortable on this bike early on in the review period, especially thanks to the ease of handling that comes with what feels to be a very good fit. I can really jam myself in between the pedals and the bar to make the bike respond to everything I give it.

While it’s not the most sensitive suspension platform, the rear wheel does track the ground pretty well over rough terrain, at least when I’m not braking. But, it does seem to get hung up on square-edged hits, stealing momentum. Indeed, the Capra is always going to struggle to compete with enduro bikes that have a higher main pivot – bikes like the Hope HB 916 or the GT Force that have a more rearward axle path, the former delivering something of a magic carpet feel.

The Capra makes up for that with its nimbleness, though. It’s more poppy and playful than either of the abovementioned. And the more comparable Merida ONE-SIXTY and Vitus Sommet 297, actually. For context, those two are MX enduro bikes of a similar geometry and price point.

A Downfall

The Capra’s anti-rise value of around 70% at sag suggests the suspension will have a tendency to extend under braking. I can’t say I felt the bike to be particularly tall under heavy braking. But, traction was certainly diminished while on the brakes, especially over braking bumps in the bike park. And, latterly, the rougher trails of the Tweed Valley, especially now that things have begun to dry out and speeds are increasing as a result.

The shock could be packing down due to insufficient rebound speed. However, I think it more likely that braking is reducing the suspension’s sensitivity. Of course, it could be a mix of the two, but i’m inclined to apportion blame to the braking, given that rear wheel tracking seems to be much better when i’m not pulling on the brakes. Either way, Bike Park Leogang saw my feet bouncing off my flat pedals a little too often for my liking. This issue was much less prevalent when riding the relatively slower enduro tracks of the Tweed Valley, but still an occasional feature.

Back to the Good Bits

In regard to travel usage, I felt the use of two tokens in the rear shock was spot on. On some of the faster trails of the Tweed Valley, those with big compressions, I was able to use all of the travel. The o-ring made it to the end of the shock’s 65mm stroke on almost every ride. There were only two occasions that I actually felt the bottom-out. On neither of those occasions was it particularly jarring, credit to the Super Deluxe Ultimate’s hydraulic bottom-out.

On smooth, carved out berms of the bike park, the YT Capra MX was truly excellent. It effortlessly held a line through berms at speed, with the shock offering heaps of mid-stroke support. The bike’s geometry remains consistent throughout the compression, making it feel very safe and predictable. As a result, there is little risk of under-steer or over-steer on the exit. In these scenarios, the bike excels.

Summary | YT Capra MX Core 3

Overall, I feel the YT Capra MX Core 3 is a good enduro bike at a very reasonable price point, particularly with its sale price of $3,499 USD (at the time of writing) – RRP is $4,599. And, I had a lot of fun riding it. This bike is most at home on slower, steep, technical singletrack, and smooth flow trails of the bike park, making it pretty versatile.

Sure, I believe there is room for improvement. For me, there’s some performance benefit to be had in a lighter rebound tune on the fork and shock. But, you’ll find that is a common complaint of mine, not really specific to this bike. Of course, the big brands aren’t optimizing performance for 60 kg riders as we are a small portion of the intended market. Sadly, the external adjustment dials only get you so far. Brands like Rocky Mountain are to be applauded for going the extra mile with a frame size-specific shock tune.

A couple hundred pounds spent on aftermarket tuning could turn this good enduro bike into a great enduro bike. Even then, you would still not have spent as much as if you’d bought a Rocky Mountain at an equivalent spec level.

Pros

• Great aggressive geometry
• Highly maneuverable and playful
• Very reasonably priced
• Cables not routed through headset
• Reasonable weight

Cons

• Suspension (especially the fork) feels over-damped for lighter riders
• Can feel unsettled under braking on rougher terrain

Component Performance

• Frame: No issues to report here.
• RockShox Zeb Ultimate Fork: The fork performance left me wanting. At the minimum recommended pressure of 42 PSI, rebound speed is insufficient to maintain consistent traction in rough terrain at speed. The fork’s CSU developed an appalling creak early on in the test period. We would have preferred the steerer tube to be left longer to allow for ride height adjustment.
• RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate Shock: At 60 kg, it’s possible I’d benefit from a lighter rebound tune on this shock.
• SRAM Code R Brakes: One bleed required over the 2 month test period. These offer sufficient power for their intended purpose, but they are certainly not as powerful as some other brakes like the Hope Tech 4 E4s.
• SRAM GX Eagle AXS Drivetrain: Derailleur performs well enough in terms of its shifting, but the SRAM GX Eagle AXS Transmission I replaced it with has the more effective clutch. As a result, it is much quieter on the trail.
• Crankbrothers Synthesis Enduro Alloy Wheelset: Rear rim sustained a considerable dent, but still maintained a good seal with the tire. Great otherwise.
• Maxxis Assegai, MaxxGrip, EXO+: Excellent.
• Maxxis Minion DHRII, MaxxTerra, EXO+: A DoubleDown casing tire would’ve been the more appropriate choice, given the bike’s intentions. One pinch flat to report, sustained at a pressure of 24 PSI while riding the bike park.
• Renthal Apex 35 Stem: No qualms.
• Renthal Alloy Bar, 20mm rise: The bar felt to be very stiff and unforgiving, but it’s entirely possible the underwhelming performance of the fork was partly responsible for the harshness transferred to my hands.
• YT Postman Dropper: Not tested.
• ODI Elite Motion V2.1: Excellent, with super tacky rubber.
• SDG Bel-Air 3.0 Saddle: Not tested.
• E13 TRS PLUS Chain Guide: No qualms.

Warranty

The YT Capra MX Core 3 is sold with a two year warranty which is transferable to a second owner. The original owner also benefits from an additional three-year guarantee.

yt-industries.com

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The 2030 is a short-travel MTB that was designed to pedal well, but SCOR prefers to look at it as a trimmed-down enduro bike rather than a beefed-up cross-country or ‘downcountry’ bike. Looking at the geometry and build specs, it’s clear this isn’t an XC race machine, but rather a fun and versatile trail bike that’s intended to be ridden to its limits.  

I got a chance to ride the new SCOR 2030 at Crankworx Whistler, so I’ve included my ‘first ride’ impressions of the bike below. I’m also lined up to get my hands on one for a few weeks this fall, so keep an eye on Bikerumor for a full review.

SCOR 2030 – Frame Details:

SCOR’s new 2030s are available with a carbon frame only. They roll on 29” wheels, offer 120mm of rear travel, and all models are equipped with a 140mm fork. We’ll dive deeper into geometry below, but the frames were designed with long front ends to capably handle steep descents, and short rear ends to keep the bikes agile and playful.

Despite its shorter travel, the 2030 frame was built to be just as strong as SCOR’s 4060 enduro bike. SCOR says low weight was not the first priority in designing the 2030s (although the one I rode at Crankworx felt very reasonable to me). The frame was designed to be stiff against pedaling forces, while offering some lateral compliance to help it squirm through rough terrain. To ensure the 2030 can handle any terrain, all of the frame pivots feature strong steel axles and weather sealing to protect the bearings.

Suspension Design

SCOR’s lower link-driven instant center suspension platform is designed to be efficient for solid pedaling, active for good traction and ride comfort, and progressive enough to handle rough terrain. SCOR followed the same principles as they did with their longer travel bikes, but the 2030’s suspension is tuned to provide their desired ride characteristics within its 120 mm of travel: The main takeaway here is that the 2030 offers a more progressive tune than most 120mm bikes.

It is possible to extend the 2030’s rear travel to 130mm (with a 52.5mm stroke shock) but SCOR feels 120mm is truly the sweet spot for this bike. If you do run a longer shock, it does not change the frame geometry, but you’ll wind up with a bit more sag versus the stock rear shock.

If you want to put a 27.5” rear wheel in the 2030, you can, but the frame does not have a flip chip to correct for MX geometry. Running a mixed wheel setup will lower the bottom bracket and affect several other angles and measurements… SCOR has not provided MX geometry figures.

Stash Hatch

While some of their earlier bikes had a small storage compartment under the frame’s down tube guard, SCOR has evolved their storage system into the new Stash Hatch. The Stash Hatch offers in-frame down tube storage, and an included waterproof stash pouch ensures your tools and essential items stay dry inside. Each bike also comes with a spare derailleur hanger in the waterproof pouch.

The 2030s come with SCOR’s proprietary upper chain guide, and the frames use SRAM’s UDH derailleur hangers. The rear axle spacing is Boost 148mm.

Bottle & Accessory Mounts

All frame sizes will fit a 500ml water bottle on the down tube, but side entry cages may be ideal for smaller frames or larger bottles due to the 2030’s low-slung top tubes. Bottle cages are not included with the bike, but the Stash Hatch cover has a standard mount. SCOR has included an accessory/water bottle mount on the bottom of the top tube to carry additional tools or cargo.

To protect the frame SCOR includes their unique chainstay protector, which is shaped to resemble a jump line! The rear shock also enjoys some mud protection from a bolt-on mudguard and the frame’s solid rocker link. The frames also feature fully guided internal routing to prevent cable rattles.

Like all of SCOR’s bikes, you can customize the look of your 2030 through their ‘Make It Yours’ program. Instead of offering custom paint jobs, SCOR prefers a more subtle aesthetic. They keep their frames looking clean and simple, but buyers can add some personal flair by choosing from a selection of graphics for the frame’s protective stickers, or even submitting their own unique designs.

Geometry:

The most notable feature of the 2030’s geometry is the head angle of 64.5°, which is very slack for a short-travel bike! For longer, less rowdy rides the head angle can be slightly steepened to 65.5° with the included angle adjust headset. Adjusting the head angle also alters the reach, seat tube angle, stack height, wheelbase, and BB height. Chainstay length is unaffected.

As many brands are doing these days, SCOR kept the standover heights low on the 2030 so riders can choose their size based primarily on reach preference instead of top tube clearance. They also went with low stack heights since it’s easy to raise your handlebars with spacers, but impossible to lower them beyond what the frame allows.

SCOR also designed the 2030s with corrected seat mast angles depending on frame size; the actual angles change with different sizes, but the effective angle at SCOR’s estimated seat heights remains the same across the board (except size small frames, which are slightly steeper than the rest).

To ensure every rider has the right weight balance and ride qualities, the 2030 offers size-specific chainstay lengths, but as the charts show they’re not different for every frame size; SCOR uses the same 429mm rear end for the small, medium and M/L bikes, but the large and XL frames do get their own chainstay lengths (432mm and 434mm).

Model Lineup:

You might notice there are no wireless drivetrains on any of the 2030 builds. SCOR says instead of jumping to include these high-end drivetrains, they prefer to spec their bikes with the best suspension components within each price range. The frames are UDH compatible so riders can easily upgrade if desired.

Some of the 2030’s components show the bike’s rowdy intentions, like wide 800mm bars, short 35mm stems, and powerful 4-piston brakes. Stock dropper post travel depends on the build; GX and X01 bikes get 125mm posts for small frames, 160mm for medium, and 185mm for M/L, Large, and XL. The NX build gets 125mm for small, 150mm for medium, and 170mm for M/L, Large and XL. Below is all the info provided; for complete build specs you’ll have to visit SCOR’s website.

The 2030 frameset includes a Fox Float Factory rear shock, a rear axle, the seat clamp, an angle adjust headset, a derailleur hanger, and the stash pouch (with a spare hanger inside).

The new SCOR 2030 will be available as of September through SCOR dealers and online.

First Ride Impressions:

During Crankworx Whistler, I got the chance to hop on a 2030 for a test ride. As I was just recovering from a leg muscle injury, I had to keep it mellow and rode some easier trails than I normally would. Although SCOR’s engineer Mauricio assured me the bike is a ton of fun on much more technical terrain, the trails I rode were actually pretty ideal for a shorter travel bike.

Thoughts on Geometry

Right away I liked the 2030’s geometry. The front end on the M/L frame I rode is lengthy at 477mm, and the 800mm wide handlebar spread my arms out comfortably. The slack head angle of 64.5° felt great (as a guy used to longer travel trail or enduro bikes). We did ride one steeper, rockier descent that proved how stable the steering feels on rough terrain. I have never found slacker steering angles to sacrifice much on climbs, and this bike was no different. At no point did I wish the head angle was steeper.  

The stubby 429mm rear end made it easy to lift the front wheel, so mid-trail wheelies and popping off jumps were a delight on the 2030. The bike doesn’t feel short overall, but the rear end felt quick in corners.

While the 2030’s rear end is short, with the slack head tube and steep seat tube angles the bike had a very stable ride. During the climbs, I felt nicely balanced between the wheels. On faster descents, I’m sure I would have enjoyed the 2030’s stability at high speeds. For steeper climbs I might have preferred a slightly longer rear end, just for the added traction… I almost slipped a wheel once or twice on our mellow loop, but conditions were dusty.

Suspension Feel

As for suspension, SCOR definitely provides a high degree of mid-stroke support and the 2030 was a dream to pop off jumps and pump through corners. Given more time with the bike, I might have dropped the rear shock’s pressure by a few psi but I wasn’t far off from being nicely dialed in. I didn’t bottom out on my mellow test ride; I probably only hit about 80% travel (bearing in mind the bike has a progressive curve).

Climbing with the shock wide open (which I did for the whole ride) I sagged about 70% into the travel, but this seemed to be because of bumps rather than pedaling inputs. The bike pedaled very well and felt noticeably fast on the climbs compared to longer travel bikes. I noticed a bit of bob from the rear end during standing climbs, but less than most bikes I’ve ridden. The 2030’s progressive curve keeps you from bobbing too deeply under stand-up sprints and helps the bike pop out of berms like it’s spring-loaded.

Final Thoughts

I’m not a heavy guy, but I thought the 2030’s frame felt pretty stiff, especially for its lean appearance. SCOR keeps their top tubes low, and standover height was no problem for me. I maybe tagged one pedal on our ride, despite the fairly low BB height of 332mm.

In my opinion, 29” wheels are absolutely the way to go on the 2030. The rear ends are already short and the steering is already slack, so why not enjoy the speed and rollover of the 29″ wheels. All in all, I think SCOR made this bike exactly what they wanted it to be. It’s a short travel bike that pedals very well, but it’s a great choice for long travel riders who might want to try smaller bikes. Or, short travel riders who aren’t in it to win races but want a versatile bike that’s capable on rough terrain and a blast to ride.

scor-mtb.com

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Bikepacking bag maker Restrap debuts a new versatile Travel pack range with two size adjustable Rolltop Backpacks and a great little Utility Hip Pack that transitions nearly seamlessly from your waist to your handlebar. I’ve just got the hip pack and larger 22L backpack in, and have already put them to use on & off the bike. Take a closer look…

Restrap Travel Packs, a waterproof hip bag & two backpacks

Restrap adding a new Travel Range is their way of blurring the lines between what you carry on or off the bike, adapting lessons learned making bikepacking bags for use while not necessarily cycling. Both the new hip pack and backpacks are meant to be used off-the-bike, but Restrap certainly tweaked them for use while cycling, too.

Restrap Utility Hip Pack – 6L

Let’s start with the hip bag.

Depending on when you look at it, the new 6L Utility Hip Pack could be confused for a pretty common fanny pack or a mini roll-top handlebar bag. It’s the way it transitions back and forth so smoothly that makes it unique. Sure, I’ve seen ‘hacks’ of people strapping their hip bag to the bar. And I’ve seen bar bags attached to a regular belt to carry them off-the-bike. But this solution is so much cleaner and more satisfying.

The secret is that the rear mesh back pad that sits against your waist is actually hinged from the top and secured in place with a big velcro patch.

In bar bag mode, the proper padded waist belt gets folded securely out of the way. Then, you just tighten the two Restrap Fast Straps around your bar, and loop the bungee cord around your stem to keep it from bouncing.

In hip pack mode, the waist belt comes out, the little bungee gets tucked under the velcro, and away you go.

Tech details, Pricing

Material-wise, Restrap makes the hip pack from a heavy-duty durable TPU fabric, with taped seams for a fully waterproof construction, and bright orange lining. It gets a full-width top opening roll-top, with a plastic structure around the opening to help close it, and a magnetic Fidlock buckle closure. And reflective stitching in the straps boosts low-light visibility.

The boxy bag is 24x18x12cm overall for 6L of storage including the two outer mesh side pockets. Restrap claims a weight of just 361g, but my sample bag weighed a bit more at 403g including the two 17cm orange Fast Straps to secure it around the handlebar.

The new Restrap Utility Hip Pack is available today direct from Restrap for $143 / £95 / 114€ in either this white or an all-black version.

Restrap Rolltop Backpacks – 22L & 40L

Restrap calls these the “ultimate backpack for use both on and off the bike”, designed for bike commuter use or just any time you want to carry goodies on your back.

Available in two sizes, the Rolltop Backpacks are built to be waterproof, comfortable cycling or walking, and tough enough to stand up to everyday use & abuse. Then, external compression straps on each side let you cinch the backpacks down so they don’t flop around even when they aren’t stuffed full of gear.

The two sizes each include an internal padded 15″ laptop sleeve and an internal mesh side organizer pocket with a key lanyard, both with external zip access and Restrap’s small “safety retention loop to protect against theft”. The larger 40L pack also adds an extra internal side pocket and another outer side pocket for further organization.

Tech details, Pricing

Materials are essentially the same as the hip pack. Restrap makes the backpacks from the same heavy-duty TPU fabric, and tapes the seams for fully waterproof construction. Everything inside is lined with slippery orange nylon that makes it easy to find items inside and slip things in & out. The backpacks get full-width roll-top openings, closer with an adjustable strap & magnetic Fidlock buckle.

They also feature a fully padded flat airmesh back panel and shoulder straps, plus a removable waist belt, and 3-position adjustable sternum straps to provide stability. Then, there are also various extra D-rings and Molle system daisy chain attachments to mount other accessories, too. Again, some limited reflective stitching in some of the straps and the small paracord zipper plus improve night visibility.

The smaller max 22L bag is 45cm tall when closed, 26cm wide & 15cm deep, with a claimed weight of 770g. The larger max 40L bag is 50cm tall when closed, 30cm wide & 22cm deep, with a claimed weight of 980g. But, our sample 40L bag was again quite a bit heavier than anticipated at 1130g.

The new Restrap Travel range Rolltop Backpacks are available today from direct for $278 / £185 / 222€ for the smaller 22L or for $315 / £210 / 250€ for the larger 40L variant. Both come in either this white or an all-black version.

First Looks

Thinking about it I have to say, I’m a bit surprised that Restrap hadn’t really gotten into ‘on-body’ bags yet, after testing out a number of their ‘on-bike’ backpacking bags. I’ve been impressed with almost every Restrap bag I’ve tried. Generally, a bit on the heavier side – prioritizing craftsmanship & durability over ultra-lightweight or flimsy fasteners – they’ve all held up well to my sometimes rough abuse. And while they aren’t cheap, Restrap’s prices are competitive, and the bags are actually all handmade in the UK at a time when most gear is still made anonymously somewhere on the other side of the planet.

These bags seem to hit on all of that, in all the best ways. Sure, they aren’t cheap, but they feel really well-made and durable.

I get the sense that this backpack is going to become my new favorite for my regular travels. It has plenty of good pockets to keep me a bit organized, without going overkill. And the external access for both the laptop sleeve and the mesh internal side pocket feels great. Plus, it compresses down so neatly that I feel like it can go from carrying just 10 or 20L on a regular basis, then balloon up to the full 40L when needed. And it looks good both compressed and fully maxed out.

It even stays put and feels good on the bike.

As for the Utility Hip Pack, well that’s a more complicated story. But still a very good one.

I had lower expectations of this bag and a bit of skepticism to be honest. You know – a jack of all trades, master of none – kinda thing. But it has proven me wrong, ending up as versatile and functional in both on-bike and on-body modes. Anyone remember the expanded ‘original‘ version of that figure of speech? I’ve only really started to use the Utility Hip Pack and to test what I can carry comfortably and securely.

But already it warrants a more detailed review. I think I like it a lot, and will certainly keep playing with it.

Restrap Travel – Availability & a bonus

In the meantime, all three new Restrap Travel packs are available now directly from Restrap and their partner retailers.

Restrap also has one extra bonus gadget hidden in with this release – a new $11/ £6 / 9€ Light Mount. It’s really just a small plastic cylinder that can bolt onto any unused frame or fork rack, fender, or cage braze-on to give you somewhere else to attach any accessory meant to strap around a handlebar of seatpost.

Since Restrap specializes in making bikepacking bags, they know that when you strap bags on your bike oftentimes you lose good spots to mount forward- or rear-facing lights. So this little 15g plastic doodad creates a mounting spot you can add away from any bags in the way. It also includes teeth that will fit the plastic Shimano crank axle/BB pre-loader in case you ever need to tighten or remove a crankset on the go.

Restrap.co.uk

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The new Shimano GRX 12-speed drivetrains are officially here. As gravel has evolved, so have the drivetrains and as a result, Shimano is offered three distinct options for the new GRX. You have the choice of a 1×12 with a 10-45t cassette, a 1×12 with a 10-51t cassette, or a 2×12 system with an 11-36t cassette.

I mostly use my gravel bikes for exploring and riding easy MTB trails, so I chose the 1×12 group with a 10-51t cassette for my build (Tyler chose the same). However, even gravel racers are starting to look to wide-range 1x drivetrains – just look at SBT GRVL which was won this year on a 1x drivetrain with a 10-52t cassette, and 52t chainring!

It’s notable here that this group uses the existing 12-speed MTB cassettes and chains for better cross-compatibility and fewer part numbers. Better still, the RX822 rear derailleur has the option to swap out the derailleur cage so you can run either 1x cassette option without having to buy an entirely new derailleur.

You also have the choice with the 1x group of choosing either a left brake lever-only, or a left brake lever with a ‘shifter’ that acts as a dropper post lever. I went with the dropper lever version as I wanted to see if you could run it both with, and without a dropper installed.

Finally, there are some Shimano PRO components to finish off the build.

Shimano RX820 Actual Weights

Starting with the shifters, it’s 296g for the right ST-RX820-R, and 274 for the left ST-RX820-LA . The non-dropper post version (ST-RX820-L) would likely be even lighter if you never plan to run a dropper. The brakes come disconnected and are both exactly 166g. The addition of the front mounting plate makes up for the extra housing length for the rear (1000mm vs 1700mm). And since this is not an electronic group, you’ll need some cables and housing. The shifter includes split housing and a cable that weighs in at 46g. For a lot of bikes, you’ll likely need an additional cable kit if your bike uses full housing.

Going along with the brakes, you’ll need some brake rotors. In this case, Shimano uses the same RT-MT800 rotor for Ultegra, GRX, and Deore XT. This one is a 160mm Centerlock rotor with Freeza tech which weighs 108g. Depending on your frame, you might need the SM-MA-R160D/D brake mount adapter which will add 17g. Included longer brake mount bolts are 14g, while the short ones are 7g.

Moving to the gearing, the rear derailleur for the 51t cassette checks in at 294g. The XT CX-M8100 10-51t cassette weighs 469g. The CN-M8100 12s chain is 283g for the 126L e-bike-rated version with the connecting link.

For the crankset, the RC-RX820-1-12 is a 1×12 crank with a 40t chainring (42t is also an option). This example is a 172.5mm length, and weighs in at 648g without a BB. Shimano still does not make a bottom bracket for BB386. Since I’m planning to build up the T-Lab X3-S I just reviewed, I needed to source my own. Fortunately, Enduro Bearing makes some of the best bottom brackets out there. So they sent over an XD-15p thread-together BB386 for the build that weighs 125g.

Shimano GRX Wheel Actual Weights

Shimano also has a new tubeless wheelset for GRX, mostly because of the new hub requirements. In order to use the exisitng MTB cassettes, the hub needs a Microspline freehub. So, the C32 WH-RX880 wheelset features hooked carbon rims with at 25.32mm internal width, 24 spokes, and sealed bearing hubs with a Microspline freehub. The rear checks in at 779g, while the front is 663 – both weights include tubeless rim tape and valve cores.

Shimano PRO Component Actual Weights

If you want to run a dropper and keep it all in the family, the Discover dropper post is available in a 27.2mm diameter with 70mm travel. The 414g dropper post includes cable and housing which adds another 83g uncut.

Finishing off the build from Shimano, the PRO Discover bar and stem along with an off-road saddle. The stem is an 80mm length with 6º rise with a weight of 160g. The 440mm aluminum bar with a 12º flare is 296g. Both have 31.8mm clamping diameter. The Stealth Off-Road saddle checks in at 202g.

For the complete tech overview on this group, read our launch coverage here.

The post Actual Weights for Shimano GRX RX820 1 x 12 Speed Drivetrain appeared first on Bikerumor.

If you’re a cyclocross maniac, you’re already posting about how #crossiscoming. Those utterly obsessed with the sport are also already building a tire coffer for the upcoming season. Challenge Tires knows better than anyone that August is ‘cross-prep month, and what better time to show off some brand-new designs while everyone’s stoke is at the max?

New Challenge CX Tires?

Challenge Tires is giving something to the elite-performance racer and the master blasters with an assortment of new tubeless race (red) tires and 38mm clinchers/tubulars.

First is the new tubeless clincher version of the famous “team only red” tubular tires. Unlike the red team tubulars, these new Team Edition (H-TLR) tires are available for everyone.

What makes them different than the tan-walled cotton tubeless tires? Well — they are red, and red is fast. Seriously though — when Challenge has a red sidewall tire, that usually denotes “team edition” or top of the heap.

In this instance, it’s the all-new Challenge Handmade 320TPI Team Edition (H-TLR) tire. These are the same tires we reported on back at Sea Otter Classic, but now we’ve had some training and rides and can give a full report (more on that later).

What makes the red side-walled tires slightly different is the casing. The new Team Edition Challenge H-TLRs use a 320TPI pre-sealed cotton casing. This slightly higher TPI (the tan walls are 300TPI) moves the ride slightly closer to a tubular feel while keeping the ease of tubeless protection.

The tread is Challenge’s own SMARTsoft Compound, the same tread compound found on the tubular version but it should be more active when paired with a higher TPI casing. The H-TLR RED Team Edition Cotton Series tires are available in the all-arounder Grifo tread and mud master Limus models for $99 per tire. We received both for our product review but spent most of the time on the Grifo since mud season is also coming, but not here yet.

Challenge TE Red H-TLR — Setup Impressions

The only thing I don’t like about the Challenge H-TLR is the setup, more precisely — mounting the tires. The bead is tight, and Challenge sells a tool to help users ease their mounting woes. But it’s a callous process; I found it less of a bear with the Challenge Gravel tires, but still; rough. Mounting the Team Edition (H-TLR) Grifos was no different than the first H-TLR experience.

Like most challenging tasks, though, the reward is worth it. My past version of the H-TLRs has yet to burp, and I’ve run some questionable pressures in the mud, so I guess the tight bead works. All of Challenge’s H-TLR cross tires are hookless rim compatible.

Challenge Team Edition (H-TLR) — Ride Impressions

Since this is a race tire, I tried to be respectful and keep my pavement time minimal. I like to ride to our local cyclocross course, which would be a great time to work out any possible tire issues.

On the road and limestone trail to the ‘cross course, the tires rolled fast, with a spring to them. I say this, having just come from the H-TLR version of the Grifos on the same wheelset. The Team Edition H-TLR tires have slightly more give and suppleness under the same 35 PSI as the standard H-TLR.

My first sessions on the course were dry and dusty. I kept the tires slightly higher in pressure (around 25-27 PSI) and felt confident in the corners and over roots/rocks. This was the sweet spot for my riding style and the slightly rocky features of the course.

When I dropped the pressure slightly (23-25 PSI), the tires felt more tubular-like but hit the rim more often. The tires did not go flat or puncture after rim dings. The Team Edition Grifo H-TLR tires are more pressure-sensitive than their tan wall counterpart.

When riding the Challenge 300tpi H-TLR tires, I would do a few course recon laps and pressure tests, give a “that as good as it gets,” and roll to the line. With the Team Edition Grifo H-TLR, you can drill down and find that just-right pressure, though it will take a bit like an excellent tubular.

I rode the Team Edition Grifo H-TLR tires in a proper mixed-condition session and was very happy with the tire feedback. The Challenge Team Edition H-TLR tires are the closest you can get to a tubular feel. The softened and suspension-like feel of the tire is very close to a tubular, and the rolling sensation is right on the money.

Product Details — Challenge TE Red H-TLR

• Size 700×33 / 33-622, UCI-legal
• Color Red casing, black tread
• Treads: Grifo, Limus
• Weight 390-392g
• Retail Price $99.99
• Available: Now

Challenge H-TLR and Tubular 38mm Tires

For those outside the UCI — 33mm width only rule, Challenge has released a dedicated 38mm H-TLR and 38mm tubular version of their Grifo and Limus tires.

The construction and tread are identical to the 33mm version, with about 31mm overall tread coverage. The only real difference about this product is the 38mm size offered. Challenge Tires is one of a select few making a dedicated 38mm cyclocross race tire, especially in a 38mm tubular.

I still abide by the 33mm tread width rule, but I couldn’t help but wonder how the 38mm tubular would handle out on a twisty cyclocross course. Yes — 38mm and wider gravel tires are used to race cyclocross, but a tubular has a slightly different feel.

I frequently train and race gravel on 38mm tires, but I was intrigued by the thought of a 38mm tubular, especially in the Grifo tread. The 38mm plus sizing is popular with riders looking for extra cushion, surviving bumpy courses, and doubles nicely as a gravel go-to.

Unlike a clincher, the tubular has a specific width to which it will inflate and a dedicated glue base tape to which the rim will adhere, making it 38mm and no larger. Challenges use the same base tape for the 38mm tubular tires as they do for the 33mm version.

I understand this decision, as there are no super wide rims to glue a wider base tape onto. The only ones that come to mind are the Shimano XTR Tubular MTB Wheels and the now-defunct Vittoria Tubular MTB wheels (both excellent). Maybe we will see more emerge with the hopeful popularity of 38mm race tubulars.

For the wheels, I settled on one of my favorites, the Hunt Tubular Race Wheels with a modern 25mm width for the 38mm tubular Grifo review rides. The tire wasn’t too big for the rim, and the base tape was a perfect fit.

There was nothing out of the ordinary about getting the 38mm Challenge Tubulars set up and rolling. The tire needed a day of pre-stretch, and mounting was straightforward and required minimal adjustment.

Challenge 38mm Girfo Tubular — First Ride Impressions

I took the Challenge Grifo 38mm tubulars out on our regular training circuit for some laps with the crew. The tire boasts all the suppleness of a tubular (duh), and the 38mm size soaked up much of the bumpy, freshly cut track.

Pressure-wise, the 38mm width can take some time to fine-tune. I was running around 23-25psi in the mud and could balance the squish of the casing, and the excellent feel of suppleness and grip. Regarding turning, the front wheel has a slightly different feel but nothing that would be hard for most riders to adjust.

The tread sits very high on the casing and doesn’t wrap around like most tubular treads. This is likely from the 33mm and the 38mm using the same tread. The high tread doesn’t interfere with the performance; it looks like a Dugast Typhoon and performs just as well as the 33mm.

Yes – there is a slight weight penalty (485g for the tubular and 427g for the H-TLR), but the ride quality definitely balances that out. I’m excited to race these at some masters races this year, especially on bumpy tracks cut the day before. I can see 38mm tubulars making a big impression on those leaving the 33mm bubble and moving from the UCI fields. The comfort and planted pedaling sensation is enough to give them a try; just make sure you’re bike will accommodate.

Product Details — Challenge (H-TLR) and Tubular 38mm

• Size 700×38 / 38-622 (non-UCI legal) 700×38 tubular
• Color: Black tread, tan casing
• Weight ~ 427g Grifo / 422g Limus / 485g Grifo Tubular
• Retail Price $84.99 HTLR / $99.00 Tubular
• Available: Now

For more info and to purchase, check out ChallengeTires.com

The post CX Tire Review: Challenge Team Edition Red H-TLR Tires & 38mm Grifo Tubular appeared first on Bikerumor.

If you are a road cyclist, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your efficiency and comfort on the bike. This seemingly simple component is a critical workhorse on your bike as it is subject to many thousands of revolutions and all the pedaling forces applied from your legs.

Along with your road bike shoes, your road bike pedals form one of only three contact points between you and your machine, and it is particularly important when it comes to efficiency. Creating a mechanical connection between the sole of your shoe and the pedal, clipless road pedals help to maximize your pedaling effort throughout the pedal stroke while keeping your foot in the optimal position for transferring your power into the drivetrain. With stiff axles, lightweight bodies, and broad platforms, road bike pedals also provide stability, comfort, and control, while adjustments to cleat positioning, float, and entry/release tension allow you to optimize their fit, feel, and performance to your specific needs.

With so many options to choose from, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can be a challenge. To help, we rounded up a diverse selection of models from Shimano, Look, Time, and Speedplay to test and compare side by side. Whether you’re new to clipless road pedals or are upgrading from an old pair, there are great options to suit all riding styles, performance needs, and budgets.

After months of testing, we’ve chosen our favorite models which are listed below followed by the best of the rest that are all worthy contenders as well. To see the specs of the models we tested at a glance, check out our handy comparison chart. If you need help deciding what to buy or simply want to learn more about road bike pedals, our buying advice and FAQ section have the info you need.

The Best Road Bike Pedals of 2023

• Best Overall Road Bike Pedals: Shimano Dura-Ace SPD-SL
• Best Value Road Bike Pedals: Shimano 105 SPD-SL
• Runner-Up Best Road Bike Pedals: Time XPro 12
• Best Race-Specific Road Bike Pedals: Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic
• Best Road Bike Pedals for Adjustability: Wahoo Speedplay Nano
• Best Road Bike Pedals for Beginners: Time Xpresso 2

Best Overall Road Bike Pedals

Shimano Dura-Ace SPD SL

Specs

• MSRP $280.00
• Weight (pedals only) 235 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless Steel
• Body Carbon Fiber/Stainless Steel

Pros

• Great stiffness to weight ratio
• Simple cleat installation
• Quiet
• +4mm axle option offered

Cons

• Fairly expensive

Bennett Shane

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedal is an uncompromised triumph of engineering and performance. It has no faults, downsides, or quirks, just pure race-winning efficiency, set-it-and-forget durability, and quiet simplicity. While researching these pedals, Google suggested the search “are Dura Ace pedals worth it?” At $280, it’s a question worth asking, but we say HECK yes!

Across the bike industry, many products are touted for their superior “stiffness-to-weight” ratio. It’s a simple-to-understand, and therefore simple-to-market concept – that something can be both lightweight and able to handle all the power you can throw at it. Most of the time this stiffness-to-weight narrative over-simplifies something that deserves a more nuanced assessment, like a frame or wheelset. But in the case of pedals, especially those meant for racing, stiffness to weight is bullet point number one. Overall, including cleat hardware, they are one of the lightest options on the market, and from the moment you first stomp on them, it’s evident that they are supremely stiff.

The latest version of the Dura-Ace pedal is the 9200, identical to the Dura-Ace 9100 model that “preceded” it. In fact, the core design of all Shimano SPD-SL road pedals hasn’t changed in decades. This design, dubbed “SPD-SL” is easy to install and adjust, runs smooth and quiet, and transfers power from your shoes to your crank arms with as little waste as possible. Thanks to oversized stainless steel axles and injection-molded carbon fiber body, you can actually feel a difference in the Dura-Ace model out on the road. It’s subtle, but there is just a bit less lateral flex through the pedal, and this creates a very pleasing feel under higher power efforts.

Installing the Shimano cleats is a breeze. Simply dab some grease on the threads of the bolts grab a 5mm torque wrench tool, and bolt the cleats to the sole of your shoe, including the provided rectangular washer. Slide the cleat around to adjust the fore/aft and toe in/out if needed. Shimano provides blue cleats with less “float” (2 degrees) with the Dura Ace 9200, which is a nice touch. Most folks who choose the 9200 pedal will appreciate the markedly locked-in feel that the lower float cleats provide. If it’s too rigid, you can always replace the cleats with the standard float option (6 degrees), which uses yellow color coding, and allows a bit more lateral movement in the ankle and knee, or for those who want no float, the red cleats have 0 degrees. Anyone with a wider stance width preference can also purchase the +4mm spindle version.

Release tension is adjusted independently, and has no bearing on how the pedal feels once the cleat has engaged. That said, all Shimano pedals require an intentional sideways kick to release the cleat. While this does take slightly more effort than other brands, the benefit is that the cleat will never come out of the pedal unexpectedly or even vaguely feel as though it might. Engaging the cleat requires some learning, but once you master the toe-in, heel-down sequence, it becomes intuitive and automatic.

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedals are reliable to the point of being a “set-it-and-forget-it” component. They never make noise, not even in the sloppiest of winter conditions. Shimano isn’t disrupting the pedal market with the Dura Ace 9200, but it is continuing to dominate it because no other pedal offers the performance, simplicity, and reliability of this pedal.

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Best Value Road Bike Pedals

Shimano 105 SPD-SL

Specs

• MSRP $149
• Weight (pedals only) 265 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless steel
• Body Carbon composite with steel contact plates

Pros

• Reasonable price
• Relatively lightweight
• Adjustable release tension
• Similar performance to higher priced siblings at lower price

Cons

• Slightly heavier weight

Bennett Shane

It’s fair to ask what even separates Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals from its value-packed 105 PD-R7000 SPD-SL pedal, which is roughly half the cost. The two look virtually identical, with carbon fiber bodies with stainless contact plates, and both feature wide-set high-quality axle bearings. Although the 105 PD-R7000 are a bit heavier than their Dura-Ace and Ultegra siblings, due to being comprised of slightly different materials, the lower price and nearly identical performance mean that the Shimano 105 PD-R7000 is an excellent value. 

Functionally, the Shimano 105 pedals work nearly identically to the more expensive Ultegra and Dura-Ace models. The primary difference is that they weigh about 30 grams more for the pair, a difference that will likely go unnoticed by all but the most discerning of riders. They still have the same size wide platform for excellent contact and lateral stability, although the steel contact plates are smaller. They also share the same cleat attachment system with adjustable entry and release tension controlled by turning a small screw on the rear. The 105 pedals also share the same cleats, and installing them is quite easy.

Unlike the Dura-Ace pedals, the 105 model comes with Shimano’s yellow cleats that have 6 degrees of float. This provides a more forgiving interface for those who prefer more float or are just getting used to clipless pedals. Both the blue (2 degrees) and the red (0 degrees) are available aftermarket for those who prefer a tighter feel. Another difference is that the 105 pedals are not offered in a +4mm spindle option, so those looking to widen their stance width will still need to spring for the more expensive options.

On the bike, the 105 pedals perform dutifully and give little, if anything, to complain about. Clipping in requires the same toe-in, heel-down motion, that quickly becomes second nature. Assuming your cleats are adjusted properly, releasing from the pedals is just as easy with a twist of the heel, and unexpected clip-outs are a total non-issue, in our experience. They also spin smoothly, and unlike some other brands, remain virtually silent underfoot for seasons on end.

If you’re willing to accept a slight weight penalty, the Shimano 105 SPD-SL pedals are an excellent option that performs nearly on par with the higher-tier options in the brand’s lineup. There are less expensive pedals, but we feel the ratio of price to performance makes the 105 one of the best values on the market.

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Runner-Up Best Road Bike Pedals

Time XPro 12

Specs

• MSRP $317
• Weight (pedals only) 188 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 85 grams
• Spindle Titanium
• Body Carbon

Pros

• Excellent stiffness
• iClic offers easy clip-in
• Lightweight
• Aero design
• Adjustable tension with 3 settings

Cons

• Floaty feel can take some getting used to
• Max rider weight of 90 kg (198.4 lbs)
• Expensive

Bennett Shane

Originally based in France, Time was recently acquired by SRAM and continues to make excellent pedals across all disciplines. Time has a unique design that we’ll detail below, and a loud and proud European aesthetic that adds to the aggressive look of any road bike. The Xpro 12 is one step down from the range-topping, and wildly expensive, XPro 15, and it will save you a bunch of money in comparison, though they still aren’t exactly cheap either.

The XPro 12 features a carbon fiber body and titanium axle, both of which are expected features in a pedal at the $317 US price point. What is certainly not expected about the XPro 12 is the fairing that graces the bottom of the pedal and claims to make the pedal more aerodynamic. Is this noticeable in use, not necessarily, but Time still deserves kudos for giving the XPro 12 a highly stylized aero treatment. The fairing immediately grabs your attention, as it’s adorned with a large Time logo against a bright red backdrop. The faring also serves the purpose of protecting the carbon body from damage during crashes and from the routine abuse that almost all pedals take, since they sit far outboard of the frame of the bike. 

Clipping in and out of the Time XPro 12 is a pleasure. The iClic system delivers a more fluid and free step-in than any other pedal in this test. Time’s iClic design remains open whenever the cleat is disengaged from the pedal, and therefore is able to freely accept the cleat during the next step-in. Complimenting the iClic design is the oversized 725mm-squared surface area of the pedal, which provides added confidence during step-in, and a very solid base for throwing down big power. 

Float in the stock “free” cleat ranges between -5 to +5 degrees, and zero-float cleats are available for those who simply want a locked-in feel without any float adjustment. They also have 2.5mm of lateral float, which is noticeable. The 16-degree release angle of the XPro 12 feels very easy to unclip, without creating any fears that the cleat would disengage unexpectedly. The release tension is also adjustable between 3 different tension levels of the carbon blade, so you can fine-tune the XPro 12 to your preference in this regard. 

Out on the road, the XPro 12 delivers what you’d expect, which is a fluid, light feeling at the cranks, and quiet performance. Although Time pedals don’t have the same absolutely locked-in feel of Shimano SPD-SL, it’s easy to recommend them just as quickly to a rider who isn’t already accustomed to the Shimano feel. If you want to try a high-quality, and easy-to-use alternative to Shimano SPD-SL or Look Keo, the Time XPro 12 is worth a close look. It’s a classy product that will add an undeniable European flare to any road bike.

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Best Race-Specific Road Bike Pedals

Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic

Specs

• MSRP $252
• Weight (pedals only) 220 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly+
• Body Carbon

Pros

• Lightweight
• Stiff
• Innovative design
• Sleek looking
• Adjustable tension with swappable carbon blades

Cons

• Creaky cleats
• Carbon blades don't feel the most robust
• Tension adjustment is time consuming

Bennett Shane

Look has always been at the cutting edge of clip-in cycling pedals, having brought the first widely-adopted model to market in 1984 with the PP65. Core design elements of the PP65 endure in many of Look’s pedal offerings to this day. The Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal, however, represents a radical shift from the norm, by substituting a traditional steel spring with a  “blade” of carbon fiber that flexes open and returns shut to secure the cleat. 

Thanks to this blade of carbon fiber – handsomely decorated with Look’s Mondrian graphics –  the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic achieves supreme weight savings, coming in at just 290g for the pair including cleats. This is even slightly lighter than Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals, which are our overall favorite. Stiffness and efficiency are also on par with Dura-Ace, thanks to a low 14.8mm stack height, and hardened steel axles. As the model name indicates, the Blade Carbon Ceramic also features ceramic axle bearings, which roll ultra-smooth and are not an option with Dura-Ace.

Out on the road, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic performs brilliantly, with a fluid but stiff response to even the angriest accelerations. These are pedals for racing, so it’s no surprise that they feel this way. The stock 12Nm tension carbon blades provide plenty of cleat security without feeling overly resistant to clip-ins, accompanied by a resonant and affirmative click. They come with Look’s Keo Grip cleats that have a small patch of TPU at the front and back to add a little grip when walking, with the standard version offering 4.5 degrees of float. Look also sells 0-degree and 9-degree float cleats if you prefer more or less float.

While the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic are great-looking, lightweight, and high-performing pedals, there is an issue that seems to affect every Look pedal and actually stems from the cleat – persistent noise. Second, adjusting the release tension requires changing out the carbon blade, using multiple tools. It’s not something you’re going to do frequently, and perhaps never, but it is remarkable that the pedal has to be partially disassembled in order to make such a basic adjustment. Lastly, we have seen the blades crack. While this didn’t happen to our test pair, it is something we have witnessed twice. Look does offer a two-year warranty, and we would recommend stashing the extra blades provided in your saddle bag for any remote riding on these pedals.

Despite the abovementioned concerns, the performance of the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic is impressive and certainly makes them fit for the purpose of racing. Recreational riders might be better served by Look’s Keo Max, which uses a traditional metal spring, but those looking for the super-smooth performance of ceramic bearings in a sleek and lightweight package should check out the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic. Anyone looking to save a little money can opt for the Keo Blade Carbon with stainless steel bearings and a slight increase in weight.

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Best Road Bike Pedals for Adjustability

Wahoo Speedplay Nano

Specs

• MSRP $450
• Weight (pedals only) 170 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 163 grams
• Spindle Titanium
• Body Carbon composite

Pros

• Light and very low profile pedals
• Low stack height
• Clean looks
• Dual-sided engagement

Cons

• Expensive
• Heavier cleats create higher system weight
• Complicated cleat setup
• Not well suited to dirty conditions
• Maximum rider weight of 82kg (180 lbs)

Bennett Shane

Representing a departure from the more common style of pedals and cleats from Shimano, Look, and Time, Speedplay brings something unique to the table. While the brand has been around for a long time, they were recently acquired by Wahoo Fitness which has brought the pedals back to market. The Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals deliver low weight, dual-sided engagement, clean looks, and adjustable float. Cleat installation is complex relative to other options. Still, once they are adjusted correctly, Speedplay pedals are indeed very nice to ride, with a fluid pedaling feel and lots of adjustability that could potentially unlock greater comfort and efficiency than more traditional options.

The Speedplay Nano is the top-tier option in the brand’s 4 models (not including the Powrlink power meter options), and they feature high-end materials like a brushed titanium spindle, along with carbon fiber in the circular-shaped body of the pedal. This combination of materials keeps the weight to a scant 170g for the pair (pedals only), bolsters stiffness, and enhances the aesthetics of any high-end road machine. Additionally, they have the lowest stack height of any model on the market, at just 11.5mm (or as low as 8.5mm with 4-bolt shoes), which promises marginally better cornering clearance.

While your bike might look and feel more svelte with Speedplay pedals installed, it is worth noting that the cleats are heavier than most, which results in a higher system weight than other high-end options. The reason Speedplay cleats weigh more is that instead of a standard 3-bolt cleat interface, they use a 4-bolt system that requires an adaptor (included) to work with most road bike shoes (unless you have 4-bolt shoes). This adaptor bolts to the shoes, and the cleat on top of that. The walkable cleat covers slip onto the cleats. It’s a relatively complex stack of hardware, and with all those layers, comes some extra weight. 

Like any other cleats, they can be adjusted fore-aft, left-right, and angled for the desired positioning. They also offer adjustable float between 0 and 15 degrees as well as an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. All this adjustability should allow most users to find their perfect settings and potentially help mitigate knee pain for some riders. Our only complaint about the adjustability is that it requires a small Phillips head screwdriver when a hex head would be more likely already in the toolbox and help prevent stripping the head. Installing and adjusting the cleats requires care and some patience, including reading the printed directions. Once the float is adjusted right, however, the pedals feel awesome.

On the road, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano has a light, smooth, and efficient feel. While clipping in isn’t any easier than other pedals, it becomes automatic within a few rides. With most of the system’s mass contained in the cleats and connected directly to the shoes, they feel rigid and stable when ramping up the power. If you are already accustomed to the locked-in feeling of the other brands, however, take note that Speedplay pedals are easier to disengage, and in turn, don’t feel quite as secure during super hard efforts. Excessive ankle movement during the pedal stroke could result in the cleats disengaging from the pedals unexpectedly. We found this to be more common with the “easy tension” cleats that come with the Comp version, though it still happened a few times with the “standard tension” cleats of the Nano.

Walking with Speedplay cleats is easy, thanks to the walkable cleat cover that’s included in every set of pedals. Still, it’s important to avoid walking on surfaces that could cause debris to collect inside the cleat, and the same goes for riding. These cleats need to remain clean to engage the pedal securely, so they may require frequent cleaning should you ride in dirty conditions with any regularity.

Overall, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano is a beautifully engineered and manufactured pedal, that does provide a wonderfully smooth feel underfoot. They wouldn’t be our first choice for dirty conditions or super hard, sprint-effort style riding, but smooth pedalers, or those looking for more adjustability than other brands offer may find a lot to like here.

Check Price at REI

Best Road Bike Pedals for Beginners

Time XPresso 2

Specs

• MSRP $69
• Weight (pedals only) 230 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 85 grams
• Spindle Steel
• Body Glass composite

Pros

• iClic makes clipping in super easy
• Very affordable
• Similar design and performance to Time's higher-end options

Cons

• Floaty feel may not be for everyone
• Not self serviceable

Bennett Shane

Time makes a wide range of road bike pedals, from the nearly range-topping XPro 12, down to the super affordable XPresso 2. At just $69, these are an accessible entry point to road clipless, and they feature a similar design and performance to the brand’s much more expensive options.

In our opinion, one of the best features of the Xpresso 2 is the iClic system that makes getting in and out of the pedals very easy, which is especially attractive for those new to clipless. When you clip out, the mechanism remains open until you clip back in, making these some of the easiest and most intuitive pedals to use. Still, they have three settings of tension adjustment to dial them in to your liking, as well as a large 700 mm-squared contact area.

The Xpresso 2 comes with iClic free foot cleats that allow +5 and -5 degrees of float. Additionally, they allow for 2.5mm of lateral movement, which may also appeal to those starting out who don’t want to feel too locked in to their pedals. The 16-degree release angle makes clipping out fairly easy while also helping to prevent unexpected releases. The Xpresso 2 are also compatible with Time’s fixed cleats that have 0 degrees of float and don’t allow any lateral movement for those who prefer a more solid connection.

For riders who are new to clipping in, the XPresso 2 makes a strong case by offering the iClic system at just $69. It is tangibly easier to use than any other clip-in pedal and will make you wonder why you ever waited to clip into your road bike. Those willing to spend a little more can find the same ease of use in the XPresso 4 and the XPresso 7, which have the same design but use slightly different materials and are both quite reasonably priced.

Check Price at REICheck Price at Amazon

Best of the Rest

Shimano Ultegra SPD SL

Specs

• MSRP $200
• Weight (pedals only) 248 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless steel
• Body Carbon composite and stainless steel contact plates

Pros

• Excellent stiffness to weight
• Simple cleat installation
• Quiet
• +4mm spindle option offered
• More affordable than Dura-Ace

Cons

• None

Bennett Shane

By using slightly heavier materials and placing slightly less emphasis on axle stiffness than its Dura-Ace counterpart, the Ultegra SPD-SL pedal from Shimano makes a strong case as a better option for most recreational riders. The PD-R8100 retains all the same attributes that made the Dura Ace pedals the winner of this test – excellent stiffness to weight, easy cleat set-up, and a silent and maintenance-free service life – but at a significant cost saving. 

Starting with an extra-wide injection-molded carbon fiber body, the Ultegra PD-R8100 asserts itself as a serious performance component. The substantial width of the pedal body distributes pedaling forces across a larger area of the foot for added efficiency and comfort on long rides.

The use of carbon keeps the weight down to 248g for the pair of pedals, only about 13 grams heavier than the Dura-Ace version. 

Moving inboard to the axle reveals the first easily discernable difference from the Dura Ace pedals, as the outer diameter of the axle is not quite as wide, resulting in a little bit more flex under big surges of power. Still, the Ultegra pedals acquit themselves well here, as it takes a huge wallop of wattage to even notice this slight difference. Within the axle, wide-spaced bearings ensure stable and even load distribution, helping the bearings stay smooth for many thousands of miles.

Unlike the Dura-Ace version, Shimano provides the standard, yellow cleats with 6 degrees of float, which is in keeping with the needs of recreational road riders who prioritize comfort as well as efficiency. Those who desire less float and purchase the blue (2.5 degrees) or red (0 degree) cleats and swap them out. Installation is quick and easy with the standard 3-bolt design that works on most road shoes. Entry and release tension is easily adjusted to suit your preference. Additionally, Shimano sells a +4mm spindle version for those looking to increase their stance width slightly.

Engaging the cleat involves the familiar toe-in and heel-down movement that most road pedals require and it becomes second nature. Clicking out does require a relatively deliberate twist of the heel and, while it may take a little more force than some other brands, it provides some assurance that your feet won’t unexpectedly come flying off the pedals when you’re putting down a hard effort.

If you want 95% of the performance of Dura-Ace with only the slightest weight penalty and $80 in your pocket to put towards other bike parts, the Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals are a no-brainer. These are one component you can put on your bike and not think about for thousands of miles because they work, and they work well.

Check Price at Competitive Cyclist

Look Keo 2 Max Carbon

Specs

• MSRP $137
• Weight (pedals only) 252 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly+
• Body Carbon with stainless steel contact plate

Pros

• Fairly light and stiff
• Simple, proven retention system
• Easy to operate
• Relatively affordable

Cons

• Cleats can be noisy
• Not the lightest

Bennett Shane

Weighing only 12 additional grams, and utilizing a more conventional spring-style tension system, the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon is a compelling alternative to the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals, at well under half the cost. 

The Keo 2 Max features a broad stainless steel plate to create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat, capable of withstanding race-winning efforts or just helping save a few watts during your next weekend adventure. The pedal body, as the name suggests, is injection-molded carbon fiber, which brings the overall weight down to a competitive 252g for the set (pedals only), and further bolsters stiffness. 

The most basic duty of a pedal is to secure the cleat, and to that end, the Keo 2 Max Carbon arguably is the best choice among Look’s offerings. While the more expensive Keo Blade is certainly an innovative design, which forgoes the traditional spring-tension design in favor of flexible carbon fiber “blades”, the Keo 2 Max sticks to the tried-and-true spring design, and thereby prioritizes reliability and affordability, while only adding a handful of grams. Opinions may vary, but we feel it seems like a more robust design than the Keo Blade Carbon, regardless of the fact that it costs significantly less. 

On the road, the Keo 2 Max Carbon is adequately stiff and provides excellent stability throughout all kinds of riding. Clipping in and out is easy and predictable thanks to the width of the pedal body. Not only is it easy to locate the entry point, but the shape of the pedal allows for instant confidence when pushing down hard to engage the spring and clip in. The efficiency of the Keo 2 Max Carbon feels excellent, thanks to high-quality steel axle bearings. The provided cleats offer a modest 4.5 degree of float, which should work well for most riders. Look offers replacement cleats in both 0 and 9 degrees of float for those with different needs. 

One of the only drawbacks to this and other Look pedals is the potential for the cleats to be noisy. We, and many others, have experienced this issue and it is something we hope Look eventually addresses with an update to the plastic used in their cleats as it slightly diminishes the user experience of an otherwise great product. 

Overall, there are no surprises with the Keo 2 Max Carbon. This pedal represents a refinement of everything that has made Look pedals great for decades. Racers on a budget and enthusiast riders should consider this pedal, as it will keep their bikes light, and provide a stiff, efficient, reliable connection to the crank arms without draining your bank account. 

Check Price at REI

Wahoo Speedplay Comp

Specs

• MSRP $150
• Weight (pedals only) 233 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 163 grams
• Spindle Chromoly
• Body Grivory (composite)

Pros

• Affordable Speedplay performance
• Low stack height
• Micro-adjustable
• Dual-sided engagement

Cons

• Cleats disengage too easily
• Complex cleat installation
• Heavy cleats create heavier system
• Cleats not suited to dirty conditions

Bennett Shane

Since being taken over by Wahoo Fitness, Speedplay road bike pedals have returned to the market and offer something completely different than the majority of other brands on the market. The Speedplay Comp is the least expensive model in the lineup, bringing a similar design and performance at a third of the cost of the top-tier Speedplay Nano.

Just like their more expensive siblings, the Speedplay Comp is based around a small, disc-shaped pedal body that has sleek, minimalist looks, an impressively low stack height, and allows for dual-sided entry. They use a slightly heavier Chromoly spindle and Grivory composite body material, but the pedals themselves are still fairly lightweight at just 233 grams for the pair. Unlike the Nano, which has a 180 lbs rider weight limit, the Comp has no weight restrictions.

Compared to more traditional pedal styles, the Speedplay Comp uses a 4-bolt cleat design that requires the use of an included adaptor on the majority of road bike shoes (unless they are 4-bolt shoes). The addition of the adaptor adds some complexity to the cleat mounting process, as well as some additional weight with the cleats plus adaptor coming in around 163 grams and bumping the total system weight up above similarly priced options from other brands. That said, they are more adjustable than most, and the walkable cover of the Speedplay cleats does make it relatively easy to walk around in your shoes.

Given the added complexity of the cleat installation process, we recommend paying attention to the included instructions to be sure you get it right. The nice thing is they offer fore-aft, side-to-side, and angle adjustments, as well as adjustable float from 0-15 degrees and an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. This is more adjustability than most traditional systems offer, and it may be great for those who are seeking a very personalized pedal interface to enhance comfort or optimize their biomechanics and ergonomics.

The Speedplay Comp comes with “easy tension” cleats that allow for slightly easier entry and release, as compared to the “standard tension” version that has a more secure hold. It’s worth mentioning that these pedals are much easier to release from than other styles and they don’t provide as secure or locked-in of a feel, comparatively speaking. They do provide plenty of stiffness and a very smooth, fluid pedaling feel, but we found that super hard sprint efforts or lots of ankle movement could result in unexpected disengagement. We do, however, also expect that is something you’ll adapt to over time.

Another thing worth mentioning is that the cleats don’t get along well with dirt, so we’d recommend against using them for gravel riding or other dirty conditions. The cleat/pedal interface needs to be kept clean to clip in securely, so if you do get them dirty, they will likely require cleaning.

All that said, the Speedplay Comp is an affordable entry point for this unique pedal system. If you’re seeking more adjustability than traditional pedals offer or you just want to try something different, the Speedplay Comp is a slick-looking option that won’t break the bank.

Check Price at REI

Look Keo Classic 3 Plus

Specs

• MSRP $83
• Weight (pedals only) 280 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly
• Body Composite

Pros

• Affordable
• Easy cleat setup
• Intuitive use
• Stainless contact plates add stiffness

Cons

• Noise from the cleats
• Slightly heavier than more expensive options

Bennett Shane

The Keo 3 Classic Plus is an affordable, entry-level pedal from Look that features all the hallmarks of the Keo design, plus two stainless steel plates that create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat surface, saving you energy mile after mile. 

Much like the rest of Look’s road pedals, clipping into the Keo Classic 3 Plus is intuitive, and the cleat tension is easy to adjust to your preference with a small hex tool. They come with standard cleats that allow for 4.5 degrees of float, which is likely the sweet spot for most riders. Both 0-degree and 9-degree cleat options are also offered as an aftermarket purchase should have different needs. Cleat set-up is also very straightforward and quick with the traditional 3-bolt cleat that works on most road shoes.

With a sturdy Chromoly spindle and a Composite pedal body with 2 steel contact plates, the Keo Classic 3 Plus performs well out on the road. They feel stiff, stable, and responsive. Though the platform width and contact area are a bit smaller at 60mm wide and 400 mm squared, they still provide a large enough surface area and support for most recreational riding and riders.

Our test pair of Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals felt very smooth and efficient, likely due to the use of high-quality steel bearings. The use of less exotic materials, however, does result in a slightly heavier weight, which at 350 grams for pedals and cleats isn’t terribly heavy, especially considering the price. And, like most Look pedals, the cleats are a little more prone to creating noise compared to other brands.

Overall, the Keo Classic 3 Plus is a modern take on Look’s classic pedal designs. While they won’t blow you away with their performance, they are easy to get along with and are a sensible option for those just starting out with clipless that will absolutely get the job done at a very approachable price point.

Check Price at REICheck Price at Amazon

Road Bike Pedals Comparison Chart

Why Should You Trust Bikerumor?

For well over a decade, the Bikerumor team has been reporting on the latest news, technology, and products across all disciplines of cycling. Our staff is made up of passionate riders who enjoy all types of riding and are obsessed with finding the best products to enhance their experience and performance on the bike. From bike frames to wheels, shoes to bib shorts, and everything in between, we know that having the right gear can make a huge difference. We also have the luxury and privilege of testing the latest and greatest products, including pedals, for product launches, individual reviews, and buyer’s guides.

Our road bike pedals buyer’s guide tester and review author, Bennett Shane, has over two decades of road cycling experience. While his racing days are largely behind him, he still enjoys putting in big miles, long climbs, and fast, mountain descents on roads throughout the Pacific Northwest near his home in Portland, OR. In addition to his wealth of cycling experience, Bennett has worked for several prominent brands in the cycling industry which has given him unique insight into the design, materials, and construction of products across categories spanning from apparel to components. Combined, his industry and cycling experience give him the ability to understand products from both sides of the table, but most importantly as a consumer, and he has developed an excellent ability to tease out the often subtle performance differences in the products he tests. Bennett has spent an inordinate amount of time on his road bikes this year testing and reviewing a variety of road cycling gear including high-performance road bike shoes, protective road bike helmets, and the best cycling bib shorts.

After rounding up 10 of the best road bike pedals on the market, Bennett mounted them up on his small fleet of road bikes and hit the pavement. Each model was tested over the course of several months, switching regularly between models for comparison. Back-to-back testing provides the opportunity to truly compare products side by side and identify performance differences that may otherwise go unnoticed. Each model’s design and construction were also examined and scrutinized along with adjustments and features to see how effective they really are. After extensive testing, favorites were identified, and our findings are presented here.

Buying Advice: How To Choose Road Bike Pedals

Finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your comfort and efficiency on the bike. While many seasoned road bikers probably already have a brand preference, those looking to switch it up or who are just jumping into clipless pedals for the first time have some decisions to make. Assuming you are ready to purchase some pedals, what factors should influence your choice? We know that navigating the myriad models, materials, and marketing jargon can be confusing, so let’s dive into the details so you can make an informed purchase decision.

What Are Road Bike Pedals?

Along with road bike shoes, road bike pedals are a very important component as they serve as one of just three contact points between your body and your bike. They are an essential part of the energy transfer system between your legs and your drivetrain. But what exactly are road bike pedals and how do they differ from other types?

Pedals generally fall into three categories. There are clipless road bike pedals (3-bolt cleats), clipless mountain bike pedals (2-bolt cleats), and flat pedals. Whether you are a serious or recreational road cyclist, we recommend using road bike specific clipless pedals because they are designed and purpose-built for the task. That’s not to say that you can’t road bike with any type of pedals, because you certainly can, it’s just that road bike pedals are specifically made for the application. Clipless road bike pedals differ from their clipless mountain bike counterparts in several ways.

One of the main things that sets clipless road pedals apart is the 3-bolt cleat “standard”. With the exception of Wahoo Speedplay pedals that use a 4-bolt cleat (and come with a 3-bolt adaptor to work on most road bike shoes), nearly all road bike pedals use a 3-bolt cleat and work on road bike shoes that have a 3-bolt hole pattern on the sole. Shimano, Look, Time, and a handful of smaller pedal manufacturers, use similar, but definitely not the same, cleats that are triangular in shape. These large cleats aim to maximize the shoe-cleat-pedal interface and contact area, which helps to distribute pedaling forces over a larger area with the goal of increasing efficiency, stability, and comfort. Road bike pedals, of course, are designed to work in unison with their specific cleats to match their dimensions and create the super important connection between your legs and the cranks.

Most road bike pedals are one-sided, meaning that the cleat can only engage on one side of the pedal. The other side of the pedal is typically smooth in a somewhat aerodynamic shape. Generally speaking, the front of the cleat engages first before pushing the rear of the cleat down onto the retention mechanism. The exception here is Wahoo Speedplay pedals that allow for dual-sided engagement.

Clipless mountain bike pedals differ from road bike pedals with their 2-bolt cleats. These cleats are smaller and mount to shoes that are designed with a 2-bolt interface. Most mountain bike pedals allow for dual-sided engagement, and they come in a wide variety of styles with different-sized platforms designed to meet the differing needs of varying riding styles and preferences. Given the smaller size of the cleat, the soles of the shoes often interface with the platform of the pedals for additional support.

Axles

Pedal axles, or “spindles”, connect the body of the pedal to the crank arm of the bike. The outboard end sits inside the pedal platform and is exposed between the body and the crank arm, eventually threading into the tip of the crankarm. Stiffness is important here, because of the way the axle is positioned – perpendicular to the direction that force is applied to the pedal body. More expensive pedals will feature stiffer Titanium axles, which benefit racers, who apply repeated doses of explosive power. For recreational riders, steel or chromoly axles are sufficiently stiff, incurring a slight weight penalty while saving enough money to make choosing them a no-brainer. 

Bearings

Axle bearings allow the pedal to rotate against the circular motion of the crank arm, keeping the rider’s foot stable and promoting a fluid pedal stroke. If these bearings wear out, the axle may wobble and may produce noise. Most pedal axles can be overhauled, but unless you are doing it yourself and using high-end pedals, the labor bill won’t be much less expensive than replacing the pedals altogether. So, high-quality bearings are something to look for in a pedal that you want to install and never think about ever again. Most pedals use stainless steel bearings, with some high-end options going with ceramic bearings. While they are significantly more expensive, ceramic bearings are claimed to be more durable, lighter weight, and lower friction, potentially providing a marginal performance gain that may appeal to racers or anyone seeking a competitive advantage.

Body Material

Along with every other bike part out there, pedal bodies have become more commonly made of carbon fiber in recent years. While carbon certainly isn’t a poor choice of material, its benefit is less obvious than parts that have more dynamic characteristics, such as frames and rims. Pedals are not an area of the bike where weight is of the utmost importance (although it is still certainly a consideration). Also, make sure that if you are choosing a pedal because it’s “light” you are looking at the weight of not only the pedals but the combined weight of the pedals and cleats. 

While carbon fiber is becoming the material of choice for high-end pedals, many models are made from other composites. Regardless of the material used in the pedal body’s construction, many also include small steel plates on the contact area where the cleat and pedal interface. This is generally done to add stiffness as well as durability over time.

Shoes

It’s important to use road bike pedals with the appropriate shoes. Much like road pedals, road bike shoes are designed to optimize pedaling efficiency and comfort on the bike. When paired together, they form the system that is the important connection between your legs and your drivetrain, transferring your pedaling power into forward momentum. Of course, road bike shoes come in a huge range of styles, constructions, materials, and price points with models made for everything from racing, sprinting, and endurance riding, to more casual, recreational riding. Finding a pair that fits well and suits your style is critical.

If you are buying both pedals and shoes, you want to make sure these items are compatible with each other. Nearly every road bike shoe (with the exception of those made specifically for use with Speedplay pedals) features a triangular set of three threaded holes in the forefoot of the outsole, meant to accept a 3-bolt road cleat. Each new pair of pedals comes with cleats that are made specifically to work with that pedal, and generally speaking, cleats are not cross-compatible between different brands. Speedplay cleats are an outlier as they are rectangular with a 4-bolt pattern and require an adapter to convert the 3-bolt pattern on most road shoes. This adapter is included with every pair of Speedplay pedals. Some brands offer Speedplay-specific shoes that feature a 4-bolt sole, and thus no adapter is required. 

There are some road bike shoes, typically on the lower end of the price spectrum, that are both 3-bolt and 2-bolt compatible, meaning they can work with both road bike pedals and clipless mountain bike pedals.

Adjustability

Most road bike pedals offer a few adjustments that allow the user to dial them in to their preferences. These typically include entry and release tension and float. Additionally, the cleats themselves can be adjusted on the sole of the shoe to get them in the perfect spot for comfort and efficiency. Before heading out for your first ride, we recommend that familiarize yourself with all of the adjustments that your pedals offer and set them up how you like.

Cleats

Having your cleats in the right location is important for the alignment of your leg for comfort and injury prevention, as well as to optimize the power of your pedal stroke. Most cleats offer a small range of fore-aft and side-to-side adjustability so the user can line them up in their preferred location underneath the ball of the foot. Often, the small metal inserts in the soles of the shoes can be moved slightly as well. Additionally, the angle of your cleats can also be adjusted slightly, toe-in or toe-out, if needed. Most quality road bike shoes have small alignment markings on the soles that can be helpful when dialing in your perfect cleat placement.

Retention

Most road bike pedals feature a tension adjustment that controls how easy it is to clip in and out of the pedal. The level of tension is typically a personal preference that may depend on the type of riding you do. Too much tension could lead to the dreaded situation where you’ve stopped the bike but are unable to get a foot out of the pedal and down to the ground. Conversely, riders who produce a lot of power will want to make sure there is sufficient tension to keep the foot in the pedal during explosive efforts. The majority of pedals have a small screw on the cleat retention mechanism that can be turned to tighten or loosen the tension to the desired setting. Look Keo Blade pedals are a little different in that they use carbon “blades” that can be swapped out to change the tension. Once again, Speedplay is an outlier in this regard as the tension is dictated by which cleat you use. They offer both “standard” and “easy” tension options.

Float

All pedals offer some way of adjusting the “float”, which is the degree of angular movement the pedal allows the cleat to make. Float is important because foot movement can prevent or cause problems, depending on how much of it happens, and for how long. Foot movement, or lack thereof, affects everything up the chain, from the knee to the hip, and even the lower back, and it can be a process of trial and error to find what works best for you. Like anything else, personal preferences vary and often depend on the type of riding you’re doing, racing vs. casual, or the desired feel from your pedals. Less float provides a more secure, locked-in feel that is typically preferred by high-performance riders and more intense power output (track races, criteriums). Having less float does leave a little less margin for error in cleat positioning, so the set up can be more challenging. Higher degrees of float are considered more forgiving, allowing more freedom of movement and generally less tension on the joints. Higher float is usually preferred by those with joint issues and anyone undertaking long, steady endurance rides or lengthy road races.

The float in most pedal systems is dictated by which specific cleat is used. Most manufacturers offer two or three cleats that allow float from zero to 8 degrees or thereabouts. Look, for example, offers their Keo cleats in 0, 4.5, or 9-degree float options, which are color-coded in black, grey, and red, respectively. Similarly, Shimano offers three different cleats with 0, 2, and 6-degree options denoted by the colors red, blue, and yellow, respectively. Time offers two cleat options, “free” cleats with 5 degrees of float, or “fixed” cleats with 0 degrees of float. Speedplay is unique in that the cleat itself is adjusted to dial in the float in very fine increments, and the float can be quickly tailored to each shoe.

Practice

If you are new to clipless pedals, doing a little practice to get used to the way they function is never a bad idea. While it eventually becomes second nature, clipping in and out of pedals can be relatively awkward at first, but thankfully, the learning curve is steep. Though it might seem silly, taking a little time in a controlled environment to familiarize yourself with the process of clipping in and out of your pedals could be invaluable and potentially help prevent embarrassment or injury (bruised body and/or ego) while out on a ride. Yes, it is as simple as deliberately twisting your foot to release the cleat from the pedal, but just about everyone has experienced an awkward, slow-motion fall when they couldn’t get their foot out of the pedal as they were learning. Trust us, a little practice is worth your time.

Value

As with all things in cycling, road bike pedals can be expensive. You can easily spend upwards of $300 for the lightest, stiffest, and fanciest pedals on the market, and many people will. Those seeking marginal performance gains or reductions in weight, typically high-performance riders and racers, will see the most benefit from spending more. If you’re not battling for podiums, however, you can spend less for nearly the same performance and with just a slight weight penalty. Take Shimano’s pedals, for example. The range-topping Dura-Ace model sells for $280 and delivers a top-of-the-line, well-refined performance at a light weight. Two tiers down, the Shimano 105 pedals look nearly identical, provide almost the same level of performance, and weigh only about 30 grams more for the pair while costing roughly half the price at $150. For this reason, we feel the Shimano 105 is one of the best values on the market. Those new to road cycling or who ride less frequently can spend even less for a model like the $69 Time XPresso 2, which is super user-friendly and gets the job done at a fraction of the price.

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The post The Best Road Bike Pedals of 2023 appeared first on Bikerumor.

I’ll be in Portland this week to cover the “celebration of the frame builder” that is the MADE Show. To me, the indy frame builders and the outliers of the bike industry are often underrepresented, so it’s nice to see a spotlight on ’em. This is the first year for the MADE Show, but I have a good idea of what to expect.

MADE Bike Show Founder, Billy Sinkford has a passion for the bike and all that surrounds it. That passion is palpable and contagious just to be around him. The show will be an extension of that passion. It will be an unapologetic celebration of the bicycle and its culture. It will likely celebrate inclusivity as last year’s Philly Bike Show did. It’ll celebrate the component makers, the frame builders, the “one-offs”, the individuals that think outta-the-box, and the craftsmanship we’ve come to expect from custom builders.

Yakima Makes My Drive to MADE a Bit More Comfortable

Needless to say, I’m very excited to attend the show. I’m also excited to make the 15-hour (1000-mile) trek in our “new-to-us” 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, camping along the way.

Yakima Rib Cage Rack for Jeep JL 4-Door

To outfit that Jeep, Yakima has sent over their new Rib Cage Rack system made for the Jeep JL (JL is the latest iteration of the Wrangler, Yakima has another version for Jeep JK) Unlimited (4-door) for me to review, along with their SkyRise HD Medium rooftop tent.

The Rib Cage is a relatively new product for Yakima Racks and retails for $600. There are a few different ways to attach a rack system to a Jeep JL. A few surround the top without touching it, with attachment points on the rear bumper and front cowl area of the Jeep, and require no drilling.

However, the Rib Cage falls into the group of rack systems that are a little more permanent and require some drilling through the fiberglass top. These types of racks use the inside of the Jeep and the “roll cage” to reinforce the rack. This allows for a larger payload, and/or use of a rooftop tent. The others out there are over twice the cost of the Yakima Rib Cage.

As it works out, the Yakima Rib Cage has the largest weight capacity of most, if not all of the systems available for this application. Furthermore, Yakima “fully tested and off-road rated” the Rib Cage.

Static Weight: The “static” weight of a rack is basically the amount of weight the rack can hold when the vehicle is not moving. Think your rack and rooftop tent with you in it. The Rib Cage carries a static load rating of a whopping 825 lbs.

Dynamic Weight: The Dynamic weight of a rack is how much it can carry while the vehicle is in motion, and arguably for those that are often off-road, the most important rating. The Rib Cage’s dynamic load rating is 330 lbs, which is the highest I know of in this application.

Another key point to mention about the Rib Cage is that it can be easily disconnected, allowing for the full removal of the Jeep’s top (one of the highlights of owning a Wrangler).

Installing the Yakima Rib Cage on Jeep JL

The installation of the Rib Cage was involved, not really very difficult, but involved. What I mean by that, is that there was a lot of reading and re-reading the detailed instructions, which Yakima suggests you do prior to starting the installation. I also watched the available video 3-4 times prior to the installation as well.

There were a lot of parts to the rack, as expected, as well as the needed tools. The parts and the tools were very well organized in a compartmentalized package.

Drilling the top of our Jeep was daunting, so I wanted to make sure that I “measured 5 times and cut once”. Our Jeep has the color-matched, painted top, so it seemed even more weird drilling into it. But, the Rib Cage is a well-thought-out solution that eliminated some of the stress of installation.

As I mentioned earlier, it wasn’t really hard, but I would suggest getting a friend to help. I struggled on some portions of the installation where another set of hands would’ve helped tremendously.

After the installation, the rack pretty much disappeared and looked like part of the Jeep. It is a fairly stealth final product before mounting the load bars. The Yakima HD Bar crossbars went on very easily and tightened right down.

One thing that I was worried about was the rack making noise in the cab of the Jeep. But, the design of the rack being attached outside the Jeep and anchored inside the Jeep, keeps it quiet.

As of right now, with about 600 miles on it after the installation, it is quiet with no signs of creaking or squeaking showing up in the future. I’ve already done a couple of decent off-road trips with the SkyRise rooftop tent on it, and it has remained silent.

Yakima Rib Cage Details

• Fully Tested and Off-road rated up to a 330lb dynamic load rating and an 825lb static load rating.
• 48″ HD Track sections allow for variable crossbar spreads to support 2 or 3-bar or multiple tower LockNLoad platform setups.
• Freedom panels are removable while the system is in use and is easily disconnected to fully remove your hardtop.
• Rooftop Tent compatible
• The internal supports attach to the roll cage ensuring lateral stability for maximum strength.
• The minimal footprint of the internal supports will not intrude on your passenger or cargo space.
• To fully outfit your system, you can choose either the Yakima TrackTower with crossbars or platform of your choice, or the Yakima SkyLine Tower and Landing Pad 26 with crossbars or platform of your choice (sold separately, additional parts may be required).
• End caps allow the installation of T-slot hardware without having to remove caps.
• Compatible with Jeep Wrangler JL 4dr Hardtop models only.
• Separate Jeep JK 4dr Hardtop model available
• $600 Retail

Yakima SkyRise HD Medium Rooftop Tent for a Jeep

We’ve used a similar tent to the SkyRise for about 4 years, and we were pretty satisfied with it. But, I’ll tell you, as soon as I opened the box from Yakima, I could instantly tell, this was a much higher-quality tent, which it should be as it retails for $2499.That’s twice the cost of my other rooftop tent.

It’s classified as a 4-season tent, so the material of the tent was thicker and felt nicer. We will see how that works out as winter is right around the corner.

The SkyRise HD uses 600D Ripstop Polyester fabric with a 3000mm waterproof PU coating. I noticed the 2.5″ foam mattress was denser and seemed of higher quality as well.

The SkyRiseHD Medium is slightly bigger than the regular SkyRise tent with a closed size of L 58″ x W 48″ x H 17″, and an open size of L 56″ x W 96″ x H 48″. It weighs in at a svelt 114.6 lbs, making it a great choice for smaller vehicles.

Yakima SkyRise HD Medium Tent Details

• Two size options provide room for two or three campers (small and medium)
• Frame geometry offers more usable space
• Large doors, windows, and skylights open up the vistas
• 4-season weather protection: 600D Ripstop Polyester fabric with a 3000mm waterproof PU coating
• Rainfly with 210D Ripstop Polyester, 3000mm PU waterproof coating
• Guy lines and D-rings on the tent floor to hang gear or tie down the tent in windy conditions
• Abrasion-resistant tent floor with a textured finish for added durability
• Ladder has mid-height adjustment points for easy set-up
• Ladder auto-close function that makes it a snap to close up
• Tool-free and lockable vehicle mounts—easy to put on, quick to take off
• Easy-to-deploy design means less work and more play—great when it’s dark or raining
• 2.5″ thick foam mattress
• Foam sleeping pad includes a removable cover for easy cleaning
• Mesh panel improves ventilation and lets you view the starry skies
• Aluminum tent frame is light, strong, and pre-set to make pitching a breeze
• Open Dimensions: 56″ x 96″ x 48″ High
• $2,499 Retail

Yakima SkyRise HD Medium Specs

• Weight: 114.64 lbs.
• Dimensions: L 58.00 in x W 48.00 in x H 17.00 in
• Minimum Crossbar Spread 26.00in
• Maximum Crossbar Spread 40.50in
• Limited Two Year Warranty

Installing the SKyRise HD Medium Rooftop Tent on a Jeep JL 4dr

After removing the box, I set the tent on its side and attached the “tool-free” lockable vehicle mounts to the bottom of the tent. I could’ve used a second set of hands for this as well, but I got it done.

I then attached the rainfly better, as it comes just sitting on the top of the tent and needs a little installation. After that, I installed the ladder and the external cover. I removed the mattress to make it a little lighter, and then I had my sister-in-law help me put it up on the crossbars. I then centered it up and locked it down.

The tool-free lockable mounts are pretty slick. They will make loading and unloading the rooftop tent a lot easier. They sit a little higher than I would prefer, but the added convenience of being able to quickly remove the tent from the Jeep is worth it to me.

My wife and I have yet to sleep in it, but we are camping on the way up to the MADE Show and on the way back, and we are stoked to give it a try. We’ll also be stopping by the Yakima headquarters in Oregon on the way home to touch base and see what’s coming up on the horizon.

Stay tuned!

Yakima.com

The post Road to MADE Show: Yakima’s New Rib Cage Rack System for the Jeep JL + SkyRise HD Medium RTT appeared first on Bikerumor.

A quick glance at the new saddle from Specialized would suggest that may be your ordinary road saddle. But look closer, and you’ll see the telltale pattern of a 3D-printed structure underneath the cover. That’s because the new Power Expert with Mirror uses the same 3D-printed tech (in spots) as the S-Works Power, Power Pro, and Romin EVO with Mirror models, but this one gets a cover.

While some have come to love the look of an airy 3D-printed saddle, others may find it a challenge to keep clean. For those riders who want the added comfort of the optimized 3D-printed matrix without the holes, the new Power Expert with Mirror saddle fits the bill. The 4-way stretch cover is designed to allow the saddle to conform to your body as the other models, only with extra protection on top.

That cover also helps hide the blend of 3D-printed matrix and traditional padding. The other saddles in the Mirror range are fully 3D-printed, but the Power Expert uses “3D-printed inserts” under the sit bones. Around those inserts is more typical PU foam, which is likely responsible for reducing the price tag.

The Power Expert with Mirror drops the price substantially for a Specialized 3D-printed saddle. Priced at $200, the Power Expert model is by far the most affordable while still being respectably light at 214g (143mm).

That weight is partially due to the hollow titanium rails, which are the only rail option here. There are four sizes offered with 130, 143, 155, and 168mm widths. At the back of the saddle, you’ll find SWAT-compatible mounts for accessories.

First Impressions

While I personally haven’t tried any of the Power with Mirror saddles, I am a big fan of the Power saddle shape overall. The standard S-Works Power saddle has become my favorite for my all-road bike, so what would I think of the Power Expert with Mirror?

At first ride, the saddle felt immediately comfortable. I’m sure a lot of that was familiarity with the shape, but the support and cushion around the sitbones was really nice. I also appreciate the grip-level of the cover. It’s not so tacky that you can’t easily move around on the saddle, but it also keeps your rear from sliding back on hard efforts.

I would like to compare it to the S-Works Power with Mirror saddle to see if there is a difference in comfort on the edges of the saddle nose. But the difference in comfort would have to be huge to make up for the $250 price difference. Overall, I’ve been very happy with the new saddle, and I think it will permanently replace the standard S-Works Power model I had on there previously.

specialized.com

The post Specialized Power Expert with Mirror 3D Saddle Gets Covered Up & Less Expensive appeared first on Bikerumor.

The right pair of sunglasses can reduce eye strain in bright sunshine or rapidly changing light conditions. Even more important though, they can keep your eyes protected from the sun and trail debris.

I got a pair of Adidas SP0057 sunglasses with a rose photochromic lens and was pleased with their versatility and protection. Aside from a small issue with the arms being a bit wide for me, I was happy with the photochromic lens’ versatility, the lens’ coverage, and the secure fit the SP0057 provided.  

Adidas SP0057 Sunglasses – Construction:

The SP0057s come with several lens options, but my test pair was equipped with the rose photochromic lens, with a transmission range of 1-3. Adidas describes this range offering ‘limited protection’ to ‘high protection’ against sun glare.

A lightweight, flexible TR90 wrap frame offers a full-rim fit around the Adidas Shield lens. To prevent condensation, the frames feature ‘Dynamic Aeration Technology’, which is one hell of a way to say Adidas put nine vent holes across the top to keep condensation from building up.

The SP0057’s adjustable rubber nose pads provide a custom fit, and they’re designed not to leave marks on your nose even after several hours of use. The little stripes on the inside help channel sweat away, and there’s a small ventilation hole in each nose pad too.

The arms on the SP0057 include flexible temples with rubber insides for comfort and grip. Adidas’ Security Block arm hinges hold the arms in either open or closed positions. This ensures the temples don’t contact the lenses when the sunglasses are folded up, and Adidas says the hinge is much more durable than other designs.

The SP0057s are considered a unisex model, and they come in one size – Arm length is 140mm, and lens width is 131mm. Adidas offers the SP0057s with a wide selection of frame colors and lens combinations, so check out their website for all the options. MSRP is $175, and they are covered by a two-year warranty.

The SP0057s are listed at 32g, but weighed 31g on my scale! It’s not the 22g weight of the POC Elicit Ti 3D printed glasses, but they’re not $400 either.

Ride Impressions:

Out of the box, the SP0057s sat crooked, but the adjustable nose pads allowed them to sit straight. After a few minutes of fiddling, they aligned nicely and the nose pads stayed in place after my initial adjustment.

The SP0057’s frames are quite large but not invisible – I can easily see all sides of the frames if I try. But they’re big enough to offer a good field-of-view and not be distracting while you ride. 

I tested the fit of the SP0057s with four different open-faced helmets, and they fit well with two out of four. My ABUS MoDrop and Oakley DRT5 both easily accommodated the SP0057s. They almost fit my POC Kortal Race MIPS, but the arms are wide enough to slightly contact the helmet near my temples. I did not have success with my Endura MT500, as its shell sits very low on my head and leaves no room for the sunglasses’ arms. It’s worth noting the MT500 is the deepest fitting shell I have, as my head is on the small end of their size medium range.

The SP0057’s have a generous hook on the end of the arms. Depending on how your helmet fits you may have to put them on starting with the hook first.

The Lens

At first, I didn’t think I was seeing much action from the rose photochromic lens. While Adidas advertises their light range as 1-3, which is the same as a pair of Julbo sunglasses I was also testing, the SP0057 definitely did not provide as wide a transmission range as the Julbos. At this point I thought the SP0057’s would not be ideal for bright sunny days…

However, I soon got a perfect day to test them out, with conditions varying from cloudy to sunny. When I got home I was much happier with them than expected. They provide just enough shade that your eyes can relax in sunny conditions. When the clouds come in (or you duck into the deep woods) they keep things bright enough for unimpeded vision. The rose photochromic lens is a versatile option, as it can handle direct sun but is ideal for low-light.

Sunglasses for Whistler

On that note, I finally got to test the SP0057’s in dim, rainy conditions during Crankworx Whistler. The lens was a good choice for that ride, keeping things looking clear and bright in the deep forest.

It was a warm, humid day and lightly raining through half of the Crankworx ride. The SP0057s did get foggy whenever I stopped moving. But as soon as I got rolling they cleared up quickly.

The size and shape of the Shield lens provides a protective feel, keeping wind and mud splatters off my eyes. I think Adidas found a good shape that provides generous coverage without being excessively large.

The Fit

I did have one comfort issue with the SP0057s, but thankfully, not a serious one. The width of the arms is a bit excessive for my narrow head. As a result, I found the arms were pushing my ears outwards just a bit. On one fairly short ride, I came home with sore spots on my ears, but it wasn’t a consistent issue. I went for a longer ride another day and experienced no soreness or irritation at all. The bottom line is the issue is minor enough that I’ll still take these for a ride anytime.

Anyone with a wider head than me would not likely have this issue, but if you’ve got a narrow noggin it’s something to consider. Adidas lists the width of the SP0057s at 131mm, but that’s the lens: At the widest point (near the ears), the arms measure roughly 150mm in width.  

Aside from the somewhat wide arms, I have no real complaints about the SP0057’s. They are nice and lightweight, and they don’t move around at all while I ride. The rubber nose piece and temples do a great job of not slipping, even when you get sweaty. Last but not least I like the styling, which is simple and not too extreme for casual, everyday use.

adidaseyewear.com

The post Adidas SP0057 Sunglasses Review: Versatile, Protective Eye Coverage appeared first on Bikerumor.

It’s not often that I find myself on a new version of a bike I just reviewed two years ago. But that’s exactly where I found myself with the Revel Ranger v2. After launching in 2020, I wrapped up my (extended) review in 2021. Now, here we are in 2023 with a new version of the Ranger. Naturally, I wanted to test it out.

I loved the original Ranger, but there were a few things that could be improved. If you care about having the latest drivetrain options, that included the need for a SRAM UDH. You can’t just add SRAM UDH compatibility to an existing rear triangle (for most bikes), so that sent Revel back to the drawing board to come up with a new frame member. Revel also revised shock mounting hardware and added a collet axle with larger bearings for the lower-rear suspension pivot. The result is an increase in stiffness you can really feel on the trail.

Sure, you can run the latest SRAM Transmissions on the new bike, but the real upgrade comes from the increased snap from the back end. The Ranger still has the ability to outrun its brakes when things get rowdy, but now it feels like the fast, short travel bike it should when you’re mashing the pedals. Ranger v2 is still just as capable when the trail points down, only now, it crushes the climbs as well.

That new swingarm also includes increased tire clearance (though still labeled as 29 x 2.6″), and a new mini-fender debris guard at the lower pivot. That mini-fender does a solid job of keeping bigger debris from getting stuck in the lower suspension links and is a welcomed addition. The tire clearance is also exceptional – most riders won’t ever use a 2.6″ tire on this bike, but you could. More importantly, that extra clearance really helps when things get muddy.

While Revel didn’t specify any changes to the front triangle, I’ve found that it’s even easier to run a full-size 26oz Specialized Purist bottle inside the front triangle with a side-load cage.

An Inauspicious Start

Based on my initial experience with the Revel, I thought this particular bike may be cursed. After the initial sample showed up with the wrong drivetrain, I swapped it for one that was fitted with SRAM X0 Transmission. Then, I found that the RockShox SID fork had issues out of the box. The fork wouldn’t compress properly as if it was hydro-locked, and the fastest way to get me riding was for Revel to send the only spare suspension kit they had – a Fox 34 Step-Cast fork and a matching Float DPS shock.

Suspension issues sorted, I set out for the trails and started dialing in the bike. Soon after, I started having issues with the SRAM Transmission. We’re still new to troubleshooting this drivetrain like anyone, and on a derailleur without most of the adjustments you’re used to, it can be tough to figure out what’s going on mid-ride.

My best guess is that the Full Mount Bolt on the derailleur wasn’t properly torqued from the assembly, and the derailleur was slowly slipping forward on the mount. By hand, the derailleur felt tight, but admittedly I didn’t bust out the torque wrench to verify that it was torqued to 35Nm before riding it (some bolts were originally printed with 25Nm, but 35Nm is the correct spec). Let that be a lesson to anyone with a new Transmission setup – even if you got it from a bike shop or direct from the manufacturer, make sure the bolt is properly greased and torqued before riding it.

As a result of the derailleur likely gradually slipping from the mount, the shifting slowly became erratic. What initially felt like something that could be fixed with the micro adjust feature turned into the derailleur starting to rub on the cassette when shifting to the biggest cogs. This all happened over the course of a long ride and by the time I had returned (early) to the trailhead, the damage had been done. I had tried to tighten the derailleur with the multi-tool I had on hand during the ride, but the mini 8mm Allen on the tool made it difficult to generate enough torque (keep that in mind if you have a Transmission derailleur, carry a big 8mm). On the trailside, it felt tight, but in reality, the bolt was probably under-torqued. I found out that it was also not greased during assembly, which could have added to the issue.

After discussing the issue with SRAM, they sent out a replacement chain, cassette, and derailleur stating that this is the same experience that they would offer to any customer that may have similar issues with a new drivetrain. SRAM has always had the best customer service in the industry, and it’s no different here.

After receiving the new parts and installing them by the book, I haven’t had a single issue since.

Well, there was one thing, but it’s hardly the fault of the drivetrain. Remember when I said I thought this bike may be cursed? On the first ride out on the new Transmission parts, a stealth ball of fishing line found its way into the derailleur before I made it 20 yards out of the parking lot. Before I even saw it, it was wrapped up in everything. I had to carry the bike back to the car, remove the derailleur pulleys, and use a knife to painstakingly cut out a massive amount of line (anglers – don’t litter parks with discarded fishing line, please).

Once I had the Transmission freed, it was like a veil had been lifted and the Ranger was flawless from that point on. I’m glad that I persisted as the Ranger V2 has delivered some of my best rides of the summer. On it, I’ve repeatedly bested some of my PRs on challenging trails, and while it’s just as happy on old-school XC tracks, I keep finding myself headed to more challenging and fun trails with the bike.

Components

At this point, it’s cliche to say that the bike can outride the travel numbers, but the Ranger absolutely can. It also may outride the brakes. That’s the case here with the SRAM Level Silver Stealth brakes included on the build. The Ranger gives you the confidence to tackle just about any terrain, but the brakes can feel a bit underwhelming at times. Something with increased stopping power would be very welcome here for more aggressive riders.

Other spec highlights include a 150mm travel CrankBrothers Highline 7 dropper post which continues to be smooth, easy to operate, and free of any excess play. The stock WTB Volt saddle was too squishy for my liking, but riders who prefer a softer ride may enjoy it. I also swapped out the Lizard Skins Charger Evo grips for my preferred Ergon GE1 grips. The stock SRAM X0 Eagle Transmission build includes a set of Industry Nine Trail S rims with I9 1/1 hubs – the Revel RW30 carbon rims with I9 Hydra hubs shown here are a $1,200 option. A very tempting option, as the wheels yield a great ride quality and seem to be quite durable.

A 40mm Raceface Aeffect R stem and 780mm bar with a 35mm clamp diameter felt right at home on the Ranger.

It’s been wetter with softer trails this time around, and I’ve had a much better experience with the Maxxis Dissector front tire. The Rekon is a solid rear tire, proving grip in most circumstances, and both tires are 29 x 2.4″ with EXO casing.

Actual Weight

In terms of the actual weight, the Ranger V2 weighs 27.51 lbs with 2oz of sealant in each tire. That seems respectable for the category, though this bike is running the upgraded Revel RW30 carbon wheels.

On Bike Storage?

We’re getting to the point where even some road and gravel bikes have built-in storage compartments, so it’s not out of the question to expect it here. While the Ranger doesn’t have any internal storage cubbies, there is an extra set of braze-ons above the main bottle cage mount which could be useful to stash tools and/or gear.

I ended up using the space for a Wolf Tooth B-RAD roll-top bag with the velcro strap mounting method. For me, this is one of the easiest ways to transfer my kit from bike to bike, and the strap keeps it nice and tight during the ride without rubbing on my knees.

Suspension Performance

Like the other Revel bikes that I’ve ridden, the Ranger V2 makes great use of the Canfield Balance Formula suspension system. Even on a lightweight bike like the Ranger, CBF provides a very efficient ride with a suspension curve that feels nearly bottomless when it gets rough. On most of my rides, I kept the Fox DPS shock in the fully open #1 position. Every now and then I would run it in trail mode #1, while the firm setting was only used when riding on pavement.

Ranger V2 Details

• 115mm rear travel
• 120mm front travel
• 29″ wheels
• Thermoset carbon fiber frame
• Canfield Balance Formula suspension system
• Price as tested: $7,999 + $1,200 for the RW30 Carbon I9 Hydra wheel set ($9,199 total)

Geometry

Perhaps more than any other bike category, “downcountry” bikes are still a bit of the Wild West when it comes to geometry. That could be a good thing depending on where you live and how you like to ride. Compared to something like the Santa Cruz Tallboy, the Ranger V2 is somewhat conservative with a head tube angle that’s 2º steeper, and a seat tube angle that’s more than 1º slacker.

There were times that I felt the bike could use a 1 or 2º slacker head tube angle, but I think many riders will find the Ranger’s geometry comforting – especially those who think modern bikes might be getting a little too slack up front. The current geometry makes it a great option for modern trails without losing its edge on old-school singletrack.

At 5′ 8″, I was right at home on the medium frame, which also has an average reach number for the category at 453mm.

Pros & Cons

Pros

Riding Home

The Revel Ranger v1 had already set a pretty high bar. It was a fun bike that had the ability to keep up with many other bikes and riders in varied terrain. The Ranger v2 is that as well, but it received the perfect upgrades to make it even more of a contender. Ranger v2 is just as capable as ever, but it’s faster and feels more laser-focused whether carving lines through singletrack or hunting down a technical KOM. Now with the ability to run SRAM Transmission, regardless of the drivetrain you choose, the Ranger is ready.

For more tech details on the Ranger V2, check out our first post here.

The post Revel Ranger v2 Review: The Right Updates at the Right Time appeared first on Bikerumor.

Let me preface this by saying this Engwe Engine X 250 folding commuter ebike is both over-the-top and also not even close to the best ebike that I’ve ridden in the past year. But as silly as a 1300€ aluminum folding full-suspension ebike with 20” wheels and fat 4” wide tires, solid hauling capacity, and quick swappable batteries can be… it’s actually fun to ride, and really hit the mark in replacing short car trips on two wheels.

Engwe Engine X 250 folding 20″ fat-tire ebike

There’s plenty of low-cost direct-to-consumer ebikes out on the market these days. And while big-name ebikes from trusted bicycle companies might be the first choice for most of our Bikerumor readers, not everyone can afford the latest tech in ebikes. Seriously, most performance ebikes we write about easily climb over $10,000 or €, some over $15k. It can be a bit crazy, really.

When I write about how Shimano’s AutoShift & FreeShift are truly revolutionary in how we ride eMTBs, when I talk about how Scott’s Solace e-gravel ebike is lighter than my steel bikepacking bike, or when I ride a crazy light TQ-powered Rotwild eMTB that weighs less than my carbon trail bike at home… all of these are just really expensive toys for people with lots of disposable income. They are all great technologies and evolutions that are making it more fun and more natural to ride ebikes.

But they aren’t solving transportation problems.

This Engwe Engine X on the other hand is exactly that.

This is not a high-performance ebike. It’s pedal-assisted transportation, and an alternative to driving a car down to the local grocery store. Also with a bit of bootleg throttle-assisted transport, too. But we’ll touch on that a bit later.

What is this folding ebike about?

Engwe is a direct-from-China ebike company, with EU and US consumer-direct distribution of their rear hub drive ebikes. I tested the 1299€ Engine X 250 model (with a 400€ extra 768Wh battery) because it is the only version that you actually are legally allowed to ride on public roads in Europe. And my rationale for trying the ebike was to have something I could ride the 700m up the road to our neighborhood recycling drop-off point, 9km to the grocery store, or 13km to the train station.

I also didn’t want a 9999€ ebike that I would be afraid to leave locked up for a few days at the station until I got back.

What’s the deal with all the crazy features?

Starting off, the Engwe Engine X is powered by a 250W brushless motor in the rear hub and a 624Wh swappable internal battery with 25km/h limited pedal-assist through a low-cost Shimano 7-speed drivetrain, and stopped by basic mechanical disc brake with 160mm rotors.

It has 20” diameter paired-spoke alloy mag wheels. Would it be lighter, a smoother ride, and more serviceable with regular spokes?

Sure. But it probably wouldn’t be cooler.

It also has mini 20×4” fat bike tires, because why not.

In theory, Engwe says that’s so riders can take it on- or off-road. It has tubes (and isn’t ready for tubeless), so the big tires mean you can run low pressure for good comfort and grip.

I’ll admit that I probably have taken it off-road a lot more than Engwe ever anticipated – I rode a lot of snow with it this last winter – and those little fat tires do a great job of finding grip and taking this ebike anywhere you want to go.

The 6061 aluminum Engine X is also a faux-bar full-suspension bike, because…

OK, this one I don’t really know.

The fork is officially 60mm of travel, and I would put the rear travel about the same or maybe 80mm. It’s not well-damped long travel, but instead, something to take the edge off and I guess look cool. It also is in no way adjustable. I certainly would have preferred a simpler hardtail and the cost of the extra complexity spent on making a better fork.

But it wasn’t an option. Yet oddly, it hasn’t been such of a problem in 8 hard months, either.

Oh yeah, it also folds. With a pivot in the rear third of the massive boxy toptube, the ebike collapses on itself to take up less space. The overly tall stem extension shaft folds down with the handlebar next to the fork leg, and the ultra-long seatpost drops low. It even has folding flat pedals, but I replaced those with a proper set of spiky MTB platform pedals for better grip early on.

And it doesn’t really get that small. Sure if you are cramped for space, the folding handlebar/stem shaft thing really takes up less space. The only reason you might fully fold it is so it will fit in the trunk of a car – or to stick it in a really big bag to smuggle it onto a German train as ‘luggage’ and not as a ‘bike’ not that I would know anything about that.

It also gets roughly 3/4 coverage aluminum fenders that do a good job of keeping you dry and clean-ish in all conditions. The Engine X also has a solid tubular alloy rear rack that can haul a pretty big load (max rider + gear rating is 150kg/330lb). It has a kickstand. And it has a wired-in headlight and taillight with brake light function.

One important thing to note is that the Engwe Engine X 250 weighs about 34kg (75lb). That’s too heavy for my Park bike scale, so I had to stand on my bathroom scale, accept how much weight I gained over the winter, then pick this behemoth up, and calculate the difference. My semi-customized setup with bigger pedals, bar, extra Pelago fork rack, bar bag & toolkit like I ride it, is actually 36kg/80lb.

It takes work to pick it up, and I try not to.

Engwe Engine X Review: So, how does it ride?

Loudly – clattering, rattling, and groaning.

There are a lot of accessories attached to this ebike, and the suspension has a lot of moving parts. Ride it off-road and it kind of sounds like there is always something a little loose. Even riding on a gravel road sounded kinda scary at first with all the rattling.

I tightened a bunch of bolts before the first ride, and after roughly 5 off-road rides I had to go back and retighten pretty much everything in the rear end.

But then it stayed put, and nothing has fallen off (yet).

The other scary noise is the motor. Engwe officially describes it as a “strange noise when accelerating, which is a little like vibration” but I would call it a mildly terrifying groan like the rear hub internals are on the verge of dying. They say it is normal, and nothing to be worried about.

I was worried, and would usually brake (which immediately stops the pedal-assist) or simply stop pedaling (which stops the support also after little normal ebike lag, just a bit slower) to make it stop.

But ultimately it kept making the noise and it kept working. Everything is fine (I guess). It just sometimes makes some scary noise under heavy load, especially up steeper hills.

The geometry of the Engwe ebike is also a bit wacky. It has the ultra-high handlebar Stack you would expect from a chopper motorcycle, and little provision to get the bar any lower than 33cm above the top of the headtube. But you can make it higher, if you wanted that for some reason. (The lowest handlebar Stack is ~ 860mm combining the 528mm frame Stack with that bar height.)

Its headtube angle is also a wacky-sounding 86.5° that combines with the fork offset to give it a reasonable 48mm of Trail. It still flops over to the side on steep hills at ultra-low speeds or when sitting loaded and leaning to the side on its kickstand, which generally seems odd.

But once riding, it does actually work fine, going to show that there’s a lot of wiggle room in building bikes with different wheel & tire sizes.

How did it survive?

Well, every bolt came loose, but it came with a tool kit.

Not a good quality tool kit, but all the wrenches you needed to tighten the bolts that rattled loose were there. (Better tools work better, though.) And I’ve ridden it hard, wet, and in the snow, then in the mud.

And it keeps on going.

The only maintenance I’ve done in 12 months, has been lubing the chain, charging the battery, and occasionally wiping it clean.

And not only has it survived, but my teenage daughter thinks it is fun to ride and wants to run errands with me sometimes now. Weird.

That means I need to find another bike to ride, and sometimes means I do not get pedal-assist. But at least I have better luck getting her to haul the recyclables.

What did I upgrade & adjust, and why?

Out of the box, the Engwe Engine X was rideable, sure. But as a modern cyclist, I wanted a bit more modern creature comforts. I didn’t buy any components to make this ebike a better ride, I simply dug into the used parts bin.

The first thing I swapped in was a less squishy saddle. You have a very upright position on this ebike so a padded seat is not a terrible idea, but I wanted literally anything firmer. I opted for the most padded PRO saddle I had with round rails that fit into the classic ‘guts’ at the top of the seatpost.

Then I had to deal with the cockpit. The telescoping stem shaft is super high. I slammed it all the way down – still a good 20-25cm higher than the saddle – and it still feels like riding a chopper. A shorter shaft would make serious cyclists more comfortable. Next, I ditched the tiny 57cm wide handlebar and put on an old 71cm bar, aided by some proper lock-on grips for much better off-road control to balance the wacky/washy geometry.

Then, bigger pedals. The stock folding pedals are fine for city use, but I live on a gravel road and was going to take this monster off-road, so it got a set spiky composite platform pedals for everyday use. And I even popped on some clipless crankbrothers pedals for a 65km when I strapped a gravel bike onto the back and commuted to a 3-day riding event.

I also added a medium Pelago Commuter front rack, because I like to balance my load hauling. This isn’t super necessary as the rear rack is solid, but it meant I could try to do something stupid by strapping a real bike on the back, but still carry more gear up front.

Lastly, one of the only truly annoying bits about the Engine X is that it needs a key to operate and that key is hanging under the middle of the main/toptube. I looped a tradeshow lanyard around it with the key so I wasn’t worried I would lose it, and it’s stayed there since day 1 when I’m riding (then removed when I have to lock the ebike) somewhere.

Is it worth it?

The reason I picked this one out of the Engwe lineup was that it was the only official street-legal version, with a 250W rated motor, a 25km/h limit, and pedal-assist only. It comes out of the box with a non-functional throttle also installed, and Engwe even offers instructions on the EU ebike’s product page on how to reactivate the throttle.

:facepalm

If those aren’t limiting factors and you want to live in the grey zone of legal approvals, I can only imagine that their simpler hardtail version would work just as well, but be lighter and less prone to failure over the long-term.

Range-wise, one full battery charge got me around 55km and almost 600m of climbing on a mix of road and gravel is medium pedal-assist. That’s with a pretty loaded-down setup that was pushing 120kg – including me and all my gear for a long weekend (including my proper gravel bike strapped to the rear rack).

My daughter on full assist easily gets the 25km and 350m of climbing it takes for our scenic grocery runs, even in the dark. If you need more range, Engwe will also sell you a second battery which is an easy 15-second tool-free swap.

Any way you look at it, I expected this to be a cheap commuter ebike that would not ride well, would be lacking in quality, wouldn’t be very fun to ride, and wouldn’t last long under my regular use/abuse.

Color me surprised.

Sure, it is kinda cheap – let that describe both the retail price and the level of the components.

But that’s probably what actually makes it work.

It’s cheap, but it is fun to ride, year-round. It’s cheap, but it turned out to be pretty durable. It’s cheap AND that makes it a great option for someone looking to turn some of their short car trips into more smile-inducing trips on two wheels.

Oh, and did I mention that I am only recharging it with the solar panels on the roof of my house, making it zero-emission transportation, too? (But being realistic, let’s not go LCA on it to get into the embodied energy or emissions from its manufacture, delivery, and end-of-use recycling/recovery.)

You don’t need a 15,000€ ebike to get groceries. I don’t want a 10,000€ ebike to zip around World Cup venues hunting mountain bike spy shots and fresh cups of coffee. And you certainly DO want a cheap ebike when you are going to lock it up and leave it unattended all day long at the train station. So, maybe it’s worth reconsidering the value and versatility of a budget fat-tire folding ebike.

Engwe-bikes-eu.com or Engwe-bikes.com

The post Review: Engwe Engine X is a Silly Low-Cost eBike, but Kinda Great for What It Does appeared first on Bikerumor.

When you’re bombing down a rough, technical descent, keeping your handlebars pointed where you want them can wear down your arms quickly. Enter the KIS (Keep It Stable) steering stabilizer.

Created by Jo Klieber, the founder of Syntace and Liteville, the KIS system helps automatically re-center your handlebars as your wheel deflects off rocks and roots, especially when they’re off-camber. Since Canyon helped work on the integration of the KIS system, they’ll be the only brand (aside from Liteville) to offer it on their bikes until next year. Canyon debuted the system on their Spectral all-mountain bike, but they now have it on a demo fleet of Strive:ON eMTBs too.

Last fall, our EU Tech Editor Cory Benson got the chance to ride both Canyon’s Spectral MTB and Liteville’s 301CE eMTB with the KIS steering stabilizer, so you can check out his initial impressions of the system. Since Canyon was at Crankworx Whistler, I took the chance to get a feel for the steering stabilizer myself. After one ride my perspective on the idea went from “If no one has done it yet, is it worth doing?” to “This is something that could catch on”.

KIS System – The Basics:

If you’re not familiar with the KIS system, check out Cory’s article covering all the technical details here. To sum it up, it’s basically made of a sliding tension adjuster, two springs, two straps, and a cam that clamps onto the fork’s steerer tube. In finished form, all of this is hidden inside the bike’s top tube except for the small slider that sits on top. The entire system does add weight to a bike, but nothing crazy at about 120g.

The system shown on the demo bike I rode is not the finished product consumers get: The demo bikes were all set up with an external version of the KIS system that allows test riders to see how it works, and make easy adjustments without the Allen key the integrated version requires. I should also note the external system I rode looked a bit different from the one Cory tried on the Liteville (which uses lighter springs than Canyon’s KIS bikes).

Ride Impressions: Climbing

While my intro line suggests the KIS system is mainly beneficial on descents, it does help on climbs too. When I first hopped on the bike, the system’s tension was set in the middle position and I barely noticed any effect from it. I didn’t feel any extra effort while steering the bike, and overall handling seemed pretty normal. Then, at Canyon’s MTB Gravity Brand Manager (and my ride guide) Jack Noy’s suggestion, I completely de-tensioned the steering. Right away I could tell the KIS system was indeed helping me out.

We started our climb on a steep road filled with loose rocks, and when I removed all tension from the KIS system I immediately noticed my front wheel squirming left and right more than it did with the system engaged. Those loose, rolling rocks were pulling my front wheel left and right, and my arms had to work to keep the wheel pointed straight.

Once I put the tension back to the middle position, it was obvious again that it was helping. The front wheel floated nicely over those loose rocks and clearly wanted to stay straight, even when I purposely kept my hands light on the grips. We only did one shorter ride, but I’m convinced on longer loops this system would reduce arm fatigue. It definitely requires less effort to keep your wheel straight, and with the KIS system, it becomes easier to sit upright and give your arms a break as the bike will resist wheel flop. Overall it takes less energy to keep the bike pointed, yet the system works subtly enough that I didn’t feel like I had to change the way I was riding at all.

Descending:

When we pointed the bikes downhill, I kept the KIS system in the middle position to start. The trail we rode was a perfect test for the system, as it is littered with rocks and off-camber roots from start to finish. In the middle tension position, I noticed some very slight resistance in the steering, but not enough to require extra effort. I could feel how my front wheel was lightly resisting deflections, but again the effect was subtle enough that I was handling the bike normally. 

In an effort to make the system’s effects obvious, I bumped up the tension by two notches. At this point, I could really feel the difference it was making. This setting produced noticeable steering resistance (although still a long way from making it hard to steer), and I did detect something Jack mentioned about cornering: If the system is set up too tight, it slows down your steering slightly and the bike doesn’t lean in as nicely as a normal bike would. I felt this on one corner, so I dialed the system back one notch.

With the KIS system, it is important to find the level of tension that works best for you. I expect most riders should be able to accomplish this, as I (at 150lbs) wasn’t even close to maxing out the tension. I’d expect the range of adjustment would be ample for much larger or stronger riders than me.

The setting I was now in seemed perfect for me – I could feel the wheel fighting to stay straight over rocks and roots, and it was easier than usual to hold a line through the rough. It took no noticeable extra effort to steer, and the cornering felt normal. On the descent, it occurred to me that like the climb, this system makes it a bit easier to take a break when needed. On moderate sections of trail, you could get away with sitting up and lightening your grip more than a normal bike would allow. This could be great for enduro racers tackling several long descents in a row.

One thing the KIS System was designed not to do is make it feel harder to steer the more you turn the handlebars. I’d say Syntace achieved this, as I didn’t feel a difference between tight corners or wider berms. The KIS system was also designed not to straighten the wheel with any obvious clunk or engagement in the middle, and I would agree I did not notice any such effect.

One thing Cory mentioned is how the auto-centering steering gave the Canyon Spectral an odd tendency when jumping. The trail I rode was a technical descent that didn’t offer much airtime, so I can’t comment on the bike’s handling in the air… give Cory’s article a read for his explanation of how the KIS system attempts to straighten the bike out if you turn your handlebars in mid-air. 

My only final thought is this; I wonder if a two-position KIS system would be beneficial. I was quite happy climbing with the tension set dead in the middle, but when I got to our highly technical descent I preferred a bit more tension to help fight off wheel deflection. I liked how subtle the effects were on the uphill section, but also enjoyed feeling that something was definitely happening on the downhill. The bottom line is I do think Syntace and Canyon are on to something, and wouldn’t be surprised to see the idea gain traction in the MTB world.

canyon.com

The post Can the KIS Steering Stabilizer Keep Canyon’s Strive:ON eMTB Steady on Whistler’s Trails? appeared first on Bikerumor.

I got the chance to join Pivot in Crested Butte, Colorado for two test rides aboard the new Shuttle AM. I came home pretty impressed with Bosch’s motor and battery, not to mention the stable geometry and capable build spec of the Shuttle AM Pro model I rode.  

2024 Pivot Shuttle AM Pro – Basic Specs:

You can find all the details of the new Pivot Shuttle AM lineup in my launch article, but here’s a quick rundown on the bike: The Shuttle AM was designed to be a well-rounded ‘all-mountain’ eMTB. Its full carbon frame’s flex pattern is identical to Pivot’s Switchblade MTB, although geometry is not the same between the two bikes. The Shuttle AM’s slack head angle and longer chainstays lean this bike toward the more aggressive side of the all-mountain class.

The Shuttle AM offers 148mm of rear travel controlled by a DW Link suspension platform, and all models come with 160mm forks. The bikes roll on 29” wheels, but can be converted to mixed-wheel setups if desired.

Drawn in by their wireless remote and wheel sensor, top tube display, and power delivery, Pivot decided to partner with Bosch for the Shuttle AM’s power plants. The lineup features the Performance Line CX motor on two models and the Performance CX Race motor on the top-spec Team build. The Pro model I rode had Bosch’s Performance Line CX motor and Powertube 750wh battery.

The Shuttle AM Pro model’s weight is listed at 49lbs.  

Ride Impressions – Suspension:

Our first demo ride started with some dirt road riding, then continued up a smooth, dusty singletrack for a while. Closer to the top we came through a forested section with some uphill rootbeds (and still plenty of dust).  I climbed with the Fox Float X Factory rear shock in firm mode, and found the bike pretty supportive against pedalling efforts. Pivot says the DW linkage is ideal for eMTBs as it fights squat effectively, especially as the motor’s power kicks in. I would agree the linkage was an efficient climber, yet it was happy to absorb bumps too.

In firm mode, I still found the rear shock was willing to dive into its travel when required by the terrain. I had dipped around 75% into the travel by the top of the climb, which did provide good traction. Pivot is using small volume spacers in the rear shocks for the 2024 AMs, and the shock did feel pretty linear through most of its travel. Even on those dusty roots the rear wheel clung to almost everything; I only slipped a wheel once during this lengthy climb (when I got stuck in a bad line). The climbs on our second ride were mostly smooth but had a few nasty rocky uphills (as seen above) and the rear shock handled them similarly to day one. 

My suspension setup was definitely within the correct range, as I was not quite bottoming out on the descents. The first day’s downhill sections only had a few rough patches, yet I still used most of the shock’s travel. While mostly linear, the stroke does ramp up nicely at the end; our last descent was a rough, rocky one that challenged the bike’s 148mm travel, but I still didn’t harshly bottom out at any point. The Shuttle AM’s bottom-out resistance helped the bike float over the rough stuff and save a bit of travel for any significantly hard impacts. The Shuttle AM felt well-supported in the corners, and despite the eMTB’s inherent weight I did manage to pop it nicely off a few bumps.

Geometry:

First off, there is a flip-chip in the Shuttle AM’s rear linkage, and our demo bikes were all set up in the ‘low’ position so all numbers listed here refer to that setting. Moving into the ‘high’ setting raises the BB by 5mm, and steepens the head and seat tube angles by 0.4°. See the charts above for all geometry figures.

At 5’10”, I was immediately comfortable with the medium frame’s 461mm reach. It’s long enough to provide a roomy front end while leaving a little bend in my arms. I liked the Shuttle AM’s steering angle of 64.1°, as I don’t find slack steering angles much of a penalty on climbs and they feel very stable on descents. The chainstays are the same for all frame sizes at 444mm; I do like the boost in climbing traction from longer rear ends, but the trade-off is I didn’t find the bike amazingly agile in the tight switchbacks we descended.

The seat tube angle of 76.4° is in-line with today’s norms and left me in a comfortable position for powerful pedaling. I’m on the taller side for riding a medium frame, but as Pivot intended the Shuttle AM’s standover height was easily low enough for me. The frame’s stack height isn’t particularly low and my demo bike had one spacer under the stem, so it was a comfortable setup for our lengthy rides. A BB height of 345mm isn’t super low, but that’s ideal for an eMTB; still, I did tag my cranks and pedals several times during our second ride’s climbs.

Drive System:

It’s been a while since I rode a very early model Bosch drive system, and it’s clear they’ve come a long way. The Shuttle AM’s Performance Line CX motor was acutely sensitive to torque inputs, and provides plenty of power (85Nm max) in its Boost and self-regulating ‘eMTB’ modes. I was pretty impressed with the eMTB mode, as it proved intuitive and responsive. With a hard push on the pedals, extra power comes on within about a second, but when you’re traversing along with ease it reduces its output without leaving you working too hard. I didn’t toy with the lower power settings – we had two solid rides to finish, and I’ve just recovered from a leg injury. I also wanted to test the 750wh battery’s run time, which turned out to be impressive. 

On our first ride, I only used one out of five bars of battery life, going between eMTB mode and using Boost for a few steep pitches along the way. This ride was about 3hrs long including several photo stops and a short break at the top, and we covered roughly 3600ft elevation. On our second ride, I was generous with the Boost, using it probably 40% of the time, and staying in eMTB mode for the remainder. After about 3800ft of elevation and over two hours of ride time, I got the bike down to two bars of battery life. I should note after getting down to one bar, the bike then gives you two ‘low power’ bars lit up in red, so I wasn’t even close to running out of juice. 

I found Bosch’s compact wireless remote very ergonomic and easy to use. The top tube display is easy to check, and it’s pretty easy to see the different colors for each mode (red = low, blue = med, purple = emtb, orange = boost ). One thing you may not notice right away is that each power bar (shown in blue) turns white before shutting off; it’s not blatantly obvious if you’re unaware, but once someone mentioned it I could see it easily.

The motors were fairly quiet while operating in any power mode, and only made some extra noise after surviving a quick submerge as we crossed a river deeper than our BB’s! The motors are not completely waterproof, but apparently, they can take a short swim. I noticed the drive system shuts down automatically after the bike sits for 10 minutes, which is great for preserving power.

Components:

Finally, some quick notes on components: Throughout both rides, I only experienced one rough shift from the SRAM XO T-Type transmission, and it was under considerable load while I tried to shoot up a sudden incline.

Also, while I didn’t love the position of the shifter pod on the Yeti SB135 I recently tested, that bike came with a matchmaker style shifter mount. The Shuttle AM came with SRAM’s Infinity clamp, and it got the shift pod into a position I was much happier with.

Pivot stuck with Shimano for brakes, and their 4-piston XT calipers with 203mm rotors offered more than adequate power for this eMTB. Long travel dropper posts (175mm for the medium frame) should keep anyone happy, and Pivot sticks with tried-and-true Maxxis Minion 3C EXO tires front and rear. A Pivot carbon handlebar is a nice touch, with the small/medium frames running 780mm widths and larger sizes going to 800mm. Throughout both rides, I had no functional issues with any of the Shuttle AM Pro’s components.

The 2024 Shuttle AM Pro is available at Pivot dealers as of today. MSRP is $11,799, and frame color options are Blue Neptune or Mojave Willow Green.

pivotcycles.com

The post The 2024 Pivot Shuttle AM Has the Stance, Travel & Power for All the Mountains appeared first on Bikerumor.

Feedback has upgraded precision bike setup and repairs with a new all-metal Range Click torque wrench that’s both easy-to-use and more precise across a wider torque range. But while the Range Click is compact, it still is a workshop-level tool that you aren’t likely to carry on the bike. For that, there’s a new Reflex Fixed Torque Ratchet kit that can go anywhere you go, for more confident trailside repairs and adjustments…

Feedback Sports new Range Click torque wrench

The new workshop-quality Feedback Sports Range Click torque wrench replaces the older The Range design with a more solid tool and a greater torque setting range. Gone are the fiddly plastic bits at the end, now replaced with a full steel and aluminum construction. Simply twist the handle to dial in the desired torque setting – between 2-14Nm – and lever on the ratcheting body until it clicks.

Feedback includes two separate windows on either side of the wrench to make it easier to see your setting – odd numbers on one side, even numbers on the other. Just dial the tension of the click spring (back to 0Nm) after each use to maintain accuracy over the life of the tool. Accuracy is said to be improved over the old Range tool, now quoted at +/- 4% for 4000 cycles. The Range Click features a magnetic tool holder, a 72-tooth ratchet head for working in tight spaces, and measures torque in either direction for standard & reverse threaded bolts.

Pricing is 20% higher than the outgoing Range (actually discounted more if you pick up some of The Range’s remaining stock before they are gone) at $120 / 135€ for the new Feedback Sports Range Click kit. With that, you get a roll-up TPU carrying case and 13 precision S2 tool steel bits to cover pretty much all regular bike work: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 & 8mm standard short hexes (25mm long); T10, T25 & T30 short torx bits; plus 50mm long 4mm, 5mm & T25 5 extension bits – all totaling a claimed 263g for the kit, rolled up to 6.5″ long x 2.5″ wide x 1″ thick.

Reflex Fixed Torque Ratchet kit for portable repairs

If you are looking for something a bit cheaper, simpler, and more compact for mid-ride repairs, check out the new Feedback Sports Reflex Fixed Torque Ratchet kit. Officially the first “everyday carry” on-ride tool from Feedback Sports, and thus earning a new Reflex family name (what more everyday carry Reflex tools might Feedback make next?), this new tool is a mini modular ratchet wrench or T-wrench depending on how much leverage you need, and works with standard 1/4″ tool bits.

The 4″ (10cm) long Reflex wrench has a 60-point-of-engagement dual-direction ratchet head and weighs 208g for the complete kit, measuring 3.75″ x 3″ x 1″ when zipped closed.

For $70 / 85€ the compact Reflex Fixed Torque Ratchet kit comes with a small zippered TPU clamshell carrying case with room to add some small extras, and includes 10 S2 steel bits: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 & 6mm hexes; T10, T25 & T30 torx bits & a small 3mm flat screwdriver. What gives it the Torque name is a small click-style 5Nm preset torque key extension that can be used with any of the normal bits, or added onto the end of the tool for extra leverage.

Feedback Sports new torque tools – First Impressions

Both the new Range Click Torque Wrench and Reflex Fixed Torque Ratchet have a solid well-built feeling in-hand, and both feel heavy for what they are. The Range Click definitely is a shop-level tool, but it packs up nicely enough that it is a great addition for a small toolbox you might carry when you want to travel with a proper set of tools – whether for a longer cycling trip or to the races.

Able to fit in a jersey pocket or dropped into a hip bag or small backpack, the Reflex Ratchet kit is certainly more portable. Still, it is undeniably heavy for the tools it offers – for comparison a basic PRO 9 multi-tool I use with effectively the same bits weighs just 81g, and my trusty old crankbrothers M17 tool with a chain breaker is still less at just 174g.

But for someone not needing a built-in chain tool or integrated puncture repair, it could serve as an on-bike multi-tool if you have hard-to-reach bolts or want the security of making torque-correct adjustments to lightweight carbon cockpit components. That solid heft gives me the sense that this tool will last me a long time – a welcome feeling compared to some super tiny bike repair mini ratchets – and it really is nice to use. It’s just probably not for weight weenies.

FeedbackSports.com

The post Feedback Range Click Torque Wrench Makes Bike Fixing Precise, Reflex Makes It Portable! appeared first on Bikerumor.

Do you really need a suspension fork on a gravel bike? The obvious answer is, no, you don’t really need it. Even with a rigid fork, modern gravel bikes are fantastically versatile. Yet, like so many things that you don’t really need, a gravel suspension fork can unlock the potential for new terrain or increased rider comfort.

To test that theory, I jumped at the chance to test out the new X3-S from T-Lab in Montreal. More than just a suspension fork-specific gravel frame, T-Lab specializes in building unique titanium bikes. Take the inherent ride comfort the aerospace material is known for and add in custom-shaped titanium tubing, and you have what T-Lab views as the “future of Ti.”

No matter what frame builder you’re talking to, they all seem to agree that titanium for all its magic, can be very tricky to work with. Over the years, T-Lab has perfected their proprietary process for shaping seamless titanium into the aggressively shaped tubing used to make their bikes. T-Lab refers to the process as their Ti-Morph technology, but more importantly, it’s this shaping of the tubeset that results in a claimed 30% increase in stiffness over titanium frames from other builders.

Stiffer Titanium

While titanium is known for a magic-carpet-like ride feel, some titanium frames throughout history have had a reputation for being a bit noodly. Not here. The stiffness claims are instantly apparent when you first push the pedals. Even for a bike fitted with 45-50mm wide tires, the X3-S surges forward with each pedal stroke.

For me, this sensation was most noticeable on long road climbs. On one particular ride, I wasn’t feeling that great and as a result, didn’t feel like I was trying all that hard on the climb. The surprise came later while uploading my ride and realizing that I had set my personal best time on that climb that day – a climb that I have frequented with lightweight, purpose-built climbing road bikes.

That trend continued with subsequent rides. Keeping in mind that this is a titanium gravel bike with 700c x 45 to 50mm tires, a suspension fork, a dropper post, a mini frame bag, and two bottles, It seems to be faster on the road than it has any right to be.

That stiffness carries off-road as well, in the best way possible. As soon as you put a suspension fork with wide tires on a gravel bike, you open yourself up to far more aggressive riding, especially when it comes to light singletrack.

One of my favorite ways to use a gravel bike is to ride from my house to some of the easier mountain bike trails in town, session the trails, and ride back. Depending on the trail, when you’re riding a gravel bike like the X3-S, you can almost build up more speed than you would on a mountain bike. Before you know it, you’re deep into a corner needing to change direction in a hurry – one of the areas the X3-S really shines.

The added lateral stiffness sets the frame apart from other titanium bikes, and even some other carbon bikes, with razor-sharp handling on tricky rock or root-filled zones. The bike never feels like it’s pushing through corners, and allows you to easily set up for technical moves or quick bursts of power. The torsional frame stiffness also makes the X3-S a great candidate for bikepacking duties – loading a ti frame up with a bunch of heavy gear can make for an interesting ride if the tubes aren’t up to the task.

Dropper Post or Seatpost Compliance, Pick One

With all the talk about frame stiffness, when I first got out for a ride on the X3-S, I thought the frame might be too stiff. In actuality, it was just the spec choice. At my request, the X3-S was fitted with a RockShox Reverb AXS XPLR dropper post, which is a fantastic dropper. However, it turns out that dropper posts have a substantial impact on the ride quality at the saddle. I’m so glad I swapped it out for a carbon post to feel the difference because while I expected there to be some difference between the two, I was blown away by how big of an impact it had.

With a carbon Zipp SL Speed seatpost installed (and the same saddle), the ride quality completely changed. Instead of bracing for every little impact, you’re able to stay seated more comfortably, and I swear you can put more power down. I felt inexplicably faster with the rigid post installed – though I still missed the dropper in certain situations.

The Reverb AXS XPLR dropper does have “ActiveRide” which means that when the post isn’t fully topped out, there are a few millimeters of ‘suspension’ built in for compliance. Even with ActiveRide engaged, the ability of the carbon post to flex fore & aft makes for a more comfortable ride.

To me, that’s the beauty of the Reverb AXS XPLR dropper though. It’s so easy to swap it out for a rigid post and vice versa that you can truly run the post you need on a per-ride basis. Without any wires, cables, or additional remotes to worry about, swapping for the dropper is as simple as loosening the seat post binder, swapping the post, and tightening it down. Based on this experience, I’d keep the dropper post for any more technical rides, but otherwise, I’d run it rigid.

Suspension Fork Surprises

Up front, it’s a different story. I went into this review thinking the 40mm travel Rudy Ultimate XPLR suspension fork would be good for the technical sections, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that it made a noticeable difference on flat gravel sections as well. The fork does a great job of taking the edge off – it never feels like something you’d find on a mountain bike. Rather, it feels and looks the part on a gravel bike that may venture into more challenging terrain.

The lockout on the fork works fairly well, but even fully locked out there is a bit of give under hard efforts. The fork also offers a rebound adjustment and the whole set up was very easy to dial into my liking. Perhaps more importantly for some riders, the shaping of the fork and the all-black colorway keep it from standing out on a dropbar bike. It’s still obvious you’re running a suspension fork, but it looks the part more than some other gravel suspension forks.

Geometry

Compared to the T-Lab X3.22, the suspension-specific geometry is one of the main things that set the two models apart. The X3-S geometry strikes a great balance between long-haul stability and quick handling in the woods. The X3-S is on par with a number of gravel bikes with “progressive geometry”, with a 69º head tube angle, and 73.5º seat tube angle. It’s not quite as long in the top tube as some bikes made for shorter stems, but for me with an 80mm stem, it seems right on the money.

The X3-S is offered in just three stock sizes compared to the X3’s five, but all of the T-Lab bikes are available with custom geometry as an upgrade. T-Lab has a very detailed process where they walk you through the build and touch on what you want or need in your next bike.

When I started this process with T-Lab Co-Founder Rob Rossi, the geometry hadn’t been finalized yet but I ended up on what’s basically the stock Small with a 384mm reach and 1049mm wheelbase. Those numbers are similar but slightly greater than an Otso Warakin Ti in a 54cm, just to highlight the fact that the X3-S sizes might be on the larger side for their name. But again, if you have any doubts, T-Lab will make sure you’re on the right size bike as they did for me.

Part Swaps

At 5’8″, I feel very comfortable on the small with an 80mm stem and a 44cm bar. The bike originally shipped with a 42cm FSA bar that felt too narrow. After swapping it out for the Easton EC90 ALX in a 44cm (with WTC Supple Lite Tape), I felt right at home. Note that the ALX is not a good choice if you love super-flared gravel bars, but at 10º, the flare is still plenty comfortable for gravel missions. It also offers a nice wide grip at the top of the bar which is a very comfy place to rest your hands on long, monotonous stretches of pavement.

The only other real spec change I made was the saddle. When this particular bike was built, components were still in short supply and T-Lab built it with what they could get. In this case, that meant a Selle Italia saddle without any markings at all. It looks like the Model X, but doesn’t have the markings of their production saddles, so I’m going to hope this was some kind of pre-production sample because it was one of the most unforgiving saddles I’ve ever tried (complete bikes now ship with a Fizik Terra Argo).

Swapping it out for the new WTB Gravelier proved to be a huge relief, and it’s been on the bike ever since. The Gravelier is a shorter saddle with a wide cushion and a cutout, making it comfortable for long days in the saddle without getting in the way on technical terrain.

Drivetrain

Complete bikes from T-Lab will include the choices of Shimano GRX 11spd (mechanical or Di2), SRAM Force AXS eTap, or Campagnolo Ekar, all with 1x builds. For this build, SRAM provided their Force AXS XPLR group with a 1x crankset and a 10-44t cassette. Overall, the group has been nearly flawless with the exception of some noise from the disc brakes. While a bit noisy at times, the brakes provide impressive stopping power, and are easy to modulate in situations where traction is at a premium. At this point, I’ve put this bike through the wringer and while I’ve had some issues in the past with Flattop chains, I’ve had zero issues this time around.

That includes the rear derailleur taking a substantial hit – big enough that I bent the derailleur hanger badly. I was able to limp home making sure not to shift into the easy gears so the derailleur wouldn’t go into the spokes. Once at home, I was able to straighten the hanger with my Abbey HAG, and it’s been shifting well ever since. If this was my bike, I’d replace the hanger to be safe, but it’s good to know that the hanger will do its job, and is actually able to be straightened.

About those dropouts: T-Lab says that they’ve been designed to improve frame stiffness and shifting precision. When asked, T-Lab told us that they have no plans to offer a SRAM UDH-compatible dropout in the near future.

I’ve run a few different wheelsets on this bike, but the Reynolds Black Label G700 Pro wheels have been on the longest. The wheels were easy to set up tubeless, have taken a true beating without ever touching a truing stand, and roll on straight pull hubs made by Industry Nine. There’s a lot to like here, plus they look great on the bike with the custom paint.

Painted Titanium?

Admittedly, I was a little unsure about paint on a titanium frame. I expected it to quickly wear and not have that enduring finish titanium frames are known for. Fortunately, I was completely wrong about that and the finish on the paint is holding up beautifully.

Even under the Restrap frame bag I’ve been running most of the test period, the paint is in great shape (which is also a testament to how well the Restrap bags fit). If you look close enough, there is some light marring, but overall it has to be one of the more durable paint finishes I’ve seen on any bike, not just titanium. I should point out that titanium purists can choose from their Pure or Lux finishes which are without paint, and offer a beadblasted/brushed or brushed/beadblasted raw Ti finish.

Those WTC Morse Cage Ti bottle cages with Cerakote finishes have also held up better than most painted cages, though the Cerakote finish has started rubbing off where the bottles meet the cage. We’ve had a pretty wet season so far, and there has been plenty of grit from mud, sand, and dirt to accelerate the process. The cages still look good though, since the bottles cover up any spots where the finish is missing.

Press-fit BB… Or Not

Another question mark I had going into the review was the use of a BB-386 bottom bracket. That spec choice was driven by T-Lab wanting to increase stiffness at the bottom bracket. To ensure the fit is perfect, the bottom bracket shells are post-machined after welding. On this bike, the bottom bracket has been silent – not all that surprising for one season on a frame. Still, given the care put into making sure the BB bore is perfectly machined and aligned, you should have no problem with the BB-386 in the future either. Still can’t get over a press-fit bottom bracket? T-Lab will build your bike with a T47 threaded bottom bracket for another $200.

Actual Weight

As shown above with the Reynolds wheels, Pirelli tires, SRAM Force AXS XPLR drivetrain, and the Easton cockpit, the complete bike weighs 20.5lbs (9.3kg) with the rigid carbon post, or 21.10lbs (9.57kg) with the Reverb AXS XPLR post. You could definitely get the complete bike under 20lbs with a suspension fork if you tried.

Tire Clearance

If there is one area that T-Lab could improve the X3-S, it would be the rear tire clearance. The maximum tire size is listed as 700c x 45mm, but even with 45mm tires installed, it can get a bit tight when things get muddy. To be fair to T-Lab, the 700c x 45mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC tires I have installed on the Reynolds rims measure 48.5mm once stretched. But to me, the frame tire clearance should match that of the fork, which in this case is 700c x 50mm.

That’s being hyper-critical though, as I’ve been riding the Pirellis a lot recently, and even at 48.5mm, there isn’t any tire rub on the frame, and mud still clears moderately well. I’ve even run some 700c x 50mm tires like the Schwalbe G-One Overland tires without rubbing. The Pirelli RC tires seem to have a bit more rolling resistance on pavement, but all of that is forgotten as soon as the tires venture off-road. Traction in everything but the muddiest conditions is incredible, and even when the tires are completely caked in mud, they shed it quickly.

Riding Home

At the end of the ride, the T-Lab X3-S left me a bit surprised. Surprised that a titanium bike can be this stiff in the right ways, surprised what 40mm of suspension travel can do for the overall ride quality, and surprised that I would consider a painted finish on a Ti bike. With the exception of riders who want to run the biggest tires in sloppy conditions, the X3-S checks nearly every box a gravel / ATB / adventure rider could look for. From nearly stock bikes off the shelf to full custom, T-Lab’s made-in-Canada titanium bikes are also reasonably priced with complete Shimano GRX600 builds starting at $4,875.

And while you don’t need a suspension fork on a titanium bike, the X3-S makes me want one.

For more technical details on the T-lab X3-S, check out our first look here.

t-lab-bikes.com

The post T-Lab X3-S Review: Fast, Capable, & A Surprising Blend of Stiffness & Comfort appeared first on Bikerumor.

The new CADEX Amp saddle inherits core features from the acclaimed Boost saddle (reviewed here) but aims at a wider audience. From a quick look, the new CADEX Amp shares a similar shape to many popular short-nosed saddles. But a closer look reveals that the Amp saddle also boasts all the tech of the Boost… including the same carbon base, integrated rails, and particle flow padding.

So does the new CADEX Amp outshine the Boost?

CADEX Amp saddle creation

The CADEX Boost saddle is one of the most comfortable saddles we’ve ridden. The shape, however, might only fit some, and it can take some time to get the correct angle. Saddles are very personal. Lastly — the Boost is more of an aero-focused saddle, and a comfortable fit is dependent on where your sit bones hit its limited padding.

Taking that feedback (which is pretty universal), CADEX developed another new design with a broader appeal and still offers support to a rider with a low, aero position on the bike — landing on this new Amp.

What is it the Amp?

The CADEX Amp features all the good that came with the Boost while giving a slightly more stable perch for pedaling. The shape will be familiar to most riders, with a very open ergonomic rear curve that CADEX says “helps increase ischial support.” The new shape gives more room for large thighs and the upswept rear helps the planted pedaling feel.

What kind of rider is the CADEX Amp for?

The CADEX Amp is a high-performance race saddle that should fit the general cycling public and more varied cycling disciplines, slightly better than the narrow-focus Boost. The shape looks familiar but has some slight tweaks on the short-nose, wide-wing design (more on that later).

Now, the lightest CADEX saddle

The Amp knocks the Boost out of the top (and only other) spot for the lightest CADEX saddle. The CADEX Boost is already respectably light at 138g, but the Amp rolls in at just 129g — very impressive considering the more versatile comfort.

That low weight is helped by the full carbon base. It’s the same CADEX Advanced Forged Composite (AFC) tech with carbon rails that the designers used for the Boost. This AFC composite helps the Amp hit a superlight weight and provide some compliance.

The carbon rails’ attachments (similar to the Boost) are positioned at the edges of the saddle shell, well away from the main contact points with a rider’s sit bones. This unique rail position allows the saddle to better dampen road vibrations and alleviates pressure points, something very noticeable when riding.

Why a different shape?

The short nose shape allows many riders to enter the CADEX brand and gives Boost riders a more “universal” saddle setup. Not to say that the Boost isn’t an off-road saddle, but the Amp’s shape is far better suited to off-road fit and positioning.

The short nose shape also pushes the rider back into the saddle to achieve a powerful, yet still aerodynamic riding position.

Shape-wise, the CADEX Amp has very sculpted wings compared to others with similar shapes. The top of the saddle has a crowned shape that drops away at the wings, and the full-carbon, low-seated base eliminates flex, helping to enable pedaling power.

Technical Specs — CADEX Amp Saddle

• Weight: 129g
• Length: 245mm
• Width: 145mm
• Stack Height: 44mm
• Rail material: 7x9mm Oval Carbon
• Shell: Advanced Forged Composite Technology
• Padding: Lightweight Reactive Foam with Integrated Particle Flow
• Price: $315

Cadex AMP Riding Impressions

Saddles are something that, admittedly, I don’t really like reviewing. Fit is a personal preference, and it can be hard to describe something that might not work for a particular rider. I’m a creature of habit, and I’ve used the same model of Specialized Power (143mm) for the last couple of years — on and off-road.

However, I took the chance to check out the CADEX Amp because my impressions of the CADEX Boost were already great. I still ride the Boost on my road bike, but it has never made it off-road successfully.

A Shape That You Can Trust

The shape of the CADEX Amp is inviting, it’s familiar, and the look of the saddle is pure class. You can see some of the attention to detail at a quick glance, but when you pick the saddle up, you really appreciate the craftsmanship.

The base of the saddle is raw carbon, almost unfinished looking. The shiny carbon against the matte black padding appeals to me; it looks like a racing prototype you’d see in the pits at a World Cup. The padding is slim but generous and contains much more on the nose of the saddle than the Boost. Then, the padding gets more dense and voluminous as you fade to the rear of the saddle.

CADEX Amp Set-up

Positioning-wise, I set the Amp up similarly to the S-Works Power Mirror it replaced. The length is similar to the Power Mirror, but the thigh glide area is longer on the Amp. Tilt-wise, the Amp was a little tough to dial in, but worth it. I found the nose is lower “feeling” because of the higher rise on the wings. I positioned our demo model at -2° out of the gate and moved from there.

The Amp feels much more like a “regular saddle” on the bike than the Boost. Where the Boost felt like something completely new, the Amp feels like a better version of something you already know. It didn’t take much time at all for me to get used to the Amp’s new fit. The tall wings in the rear can be slightly weird initially, but I adjusted after just one ride.

I mounted the Amp on my Canyon Inflite for do-it-all riding and to prep for ‘cross-season. #crossiscoming. Mounting the Amp on my cyclocross bike allowed me to experience it both on- and off-road. After several trainer sessions, I hit the road, content with over-analyzing my positioning.

The nose is a neutral width, not small but enough that your legs are slotted, similar to the PRO Stealth but slimmer. The wide thigh glide area helps maintain this sensation. I ended up moving the Amp forward 3mm from my regular positioning and was satisfied. The slightly longer thigh area and slow taper to the wings make it feel like a longer saddle.

Off-road riding on the CADEX Amp is a pleasure, though thoughts of snapping a carbon rail were always in the back of my mind. But, after a few hard days and bad lines, I felt safe — though the replacement price is possibly high enough to keep this saddle firmly on the tarmac for the nervous among us.

For the few cyclocross sessions the Amp saw, I can say the tall wings in the rear might not be the best for a clean re-mount. But, as mentioned before, I’m coming from a slightly flatter saddle, so I might simply need to adjust my technique.

CADEX Amp Saddle — Final Impressions

After miles on the CADEX Amp, I confidently say it is as good as the CADEX Boost.

Is it better?

It is a better all-around saddle when compared directly to the Boost. The general short nose shape fits my body well, and I’m accustomed to its fit and positioning. Given a choice between the two, I will now choose the Amp — based solely on the fact that it is closer in shape to other saddles I regularly ride.

Yes — it’s $315… expensive. But like the Boost, it’s a premium product with a price tag to match. Hopefully, CADEX will bring out a line of saddles that reflect the Amp and Boost shape with a more affordable ask. If the price is your holdback… note: like the CADEX wheels, bars, and other offerings, the Amp and Boost saddles come with the CADEX Composite Confidence. If you crash, damage, or whatever in the first 2-year of riding the product, CADEX will replace or repair it.

CADEX Amp — Conclusion

If you’re a performance-focused rider looking for a new saddle that will offer max comfort and dampened road feel — the Amp is your choice. The color (matte black) will match all bikes. And the 129g weight is almost assuredly lighter than what’s currently on your ride. We look forward to more rides on the Amp — look for a long-term review follow-up early this fall.

The CADEX Amp saddle is available now, at retailers and online in select markets worldwide.

Cadex-cycling.com/Amp

The post 129g CADEX Amp Saddle Offers Maximum Comfort with Minimal Weight appeared first on Bikerumor.

A few months ago I wrote a story about the collaboration of Montana’s Sklar Bikes, The Pro’s Closet (TPC), and The Radavist. The three had joined forces to release 25 limited edition Sklar Super Something complete bikes. It was a unique group of bikes available in 5 different builds from the top-tier model to the single-speed version, offering something for most.

John Watson of the Radavist conjured up these different builds, and the paint schemes. Through the builds, he was able to not only highlight the versatility of the Sklar Super Something frameset, but I believe he was also reminding us that we all ride a little differently and that there is no “right” way to spec and ride a bike.

After the dust had settled, a few months went by and TPC reached out and asked if I’d like to review the Sklar Super Something with the Tier Two build… yeah, damn skippy I would! When it came time to get the bike to me, it turned out that the only one I could get to review was the Tier One version. Fine by me!

Sklar Bikes

Adam Sklar has been building bikes in Boseman, Montana since 2014. For 10 years Adam was making only custom frames, working with customers through a lengthy process to get the fit and feel just right. But, after really honing in on what his customer’s needs are, he’s decided that it would be better to provide highly designed, hand-made, small-batch production frames.

The frames he is building now are for riders that are seriously unserious about riding their bikes. They’re riding to have fun, or “performance without racing in mind”. Every frame is still made by Adam, one at a time, in steel or titanium.

The Sklar Super Something Frameset

The Super Something retails for $1599 for a frame and fork and is Sklar’s gravel/all-road/light touring frameset, that is ready for anything and built for everything. It has a lot of versatility built into it allowing the lucky owner to build it up in a myriad of different ways.

Adam’s design philosophy on the Super Something is; “Keep it simple. In our eyes, every “Gravel Bike” falls somewhere on the spectrum between a fat tired road bike on one side and a mountain bike on the other. The Super Something is about 40% of the way along that spectrum“.

He kept the geo a nice mix of a little new school MTB but kept the feel of riding a road bike in the dirt. According to the Skar website, the Super Something has a slightly long-ish reach and was designed around the Simworks Anne Lee Stem, and meant to be ridden with a 50-90mm length stem.

The frame comes with Rocker Dropouts so you can adjust chainstay length or/and can set it up to run as a single-speed… adding to its versatility and allowing the Super Something to grow and change with your riding style.

Super Something Frame Geometry

Frame Tech Specs

• Frame & fork Material: Double-butted heat-treated Chromoly Steel, designed in Boseman, Montana, and manufactured in Taiwan
• 142x12mm rear, 100x12mm for the front spacing
• 27.2mm Seat post
• 160mm Post mount or flat mount rear (With Paragon Machineworks rocker dropout inserts), ISO front brake mount on steel fork.
• The frame is also compatible with ENVE Adventure Fork (not included)
• Clearance for 700×55 c or 27.5x 2.1”
• 3 bottle cages, one under the Down tube
• 68mm BSA Bottom bracket Shell
• Compatible with EC34mm/44mm Headset, 1-1/8” steerer Steel fork
• Clearance for up to a 44T single chainring
• External Cable routing
• Rocker Dropouts for adjustable chainstay length or single speed, use Paragon Machineworks Inserts

Superb Packaging by TPC

When the box showed up from TPC, it looked really big. When I opened it up, I was pleased to find the bike completely assembled, minus the front wheel to the fork. The packaging was pretty amazing. There was hardly any packaging but the bike was completely safe from unwanted shuffling that could cause damage.

I pulled the bike out of the box, loosened and pulled the seat post up, mounted it in the stand, and clipped off all of the zip ties. I then removed the spacer from between the brake pads, attached the front wheel, loosened and rotated the stem around to face the front, loosened and twisted the bars up into place, and Bob’s yer Uncle… that was it… the bike was assembled.

If this is any indication of how you receive a bike when you buy one from The Pro’s Closet, then a huge kudos to them for nailing the packaging.

To get the bike ready for me to ride, I removed the two spacers from on top of the stem to underneath to give me as much stack as possible, added my ancient, but amazing Shimano 747 pedals, and swapped the included Brooks C15 with my own C17 as the wider C17 fits my sit bones better.

The Limited Radavist Super Something Spec List

As mentioned earlier, the Super Something that was sent to me was the Tier One build of the limited Radavist Edition and retails for $5699. It is a beautiful build. And the color is very cool, with the speckles using so many different colors. John said that it was inspired by one of his favorite Swedish camping mugs while also using colors that are reminiscent of the soil of the Southwest

• Enve Foundation Wheelset
• Enve bar and stem
• Force AXS Drivetrain
• Enve Carbon seat post
• Wolftooth Components headset
• Brooks C15 saddle
• Hope RX4 Brake Calipers
• Ultradynamico Mars 29″ x 2.2″ tires

You can see all of the other Limited Edition builds and prices here.

So, How’d it Ride?

No fluff here, I really loved the way this bike rode. Like love, loved the way it rode. I let my pal Dave ride it around a bit, and when he returned he said, “What’s the deal with the geo? It handles so well!”

There is something about the geometry that just works so damn well. It’s not groundbreaking by any stretch of the imagination, but man, it just handled beautifully. It was very point-and-shoot when it came to the few technical descents I rode it on.

I like to keep a review bike for a little longer than a month and a half or so. But, TPC needed the bike back, so I had a hard return date. Plus I had just moved when the bike arrived and my shop/office was in chaos… it took me a few weeks to destress, get my bearings and get organized.

But, I believe I made good time with the Super Something in the short-ish time we shared together. When I had it, I rode it a lot on the pavement, on groomed pea gravel, buffed and not-so-buffed singletrack, and a few techy descents.

I received a 58cm bike, and the Super Something’s signature arching top tube made the bike feel big, but in reality, the 58cm fit me perfectly. I would’ve swapped in a shorter stem by 10mm, but other than that, the bike fit me well.

The extra volume and cushiness of the Ultradynamico Mars 2.2 tires ate up all the chonk. Combine that with the carbon bars, stem, and seat post, and the bike felt very vibration-free, even on the rougher stuff. Some of that would be the compliance of the steel frame and fork as well.

On one of the last rides on the bike, I noticed that the tire was ever-so-slightly rubbing on the chainstay at 32psi. It looked like it had been doing so for a while. Moving the rear dropout may fix that, but the dropout was already most of the way back.

I think the choice of tire size was a bit ambitious. Tires measuring 29 x 2.0″, or 29 x 2.1″ would probably feel the same and would eliminate the rubbing.

I found the bike climbed very well, was comfortable while seated, and when out of the saddle on harder efforts, the bike felt confident. Super Something’s geometry felt neutral and didn’t need a lot of babysitting on the long sweeping corners and slow climbs, while still feeling very nimble and spry on my favorite fast, tight singletrack run.

SRAM’s AXS XPLR group was impressive – this was my first time running the AXS XPLR group, and I can see the appeal. It’s pretty intuitive and smooth.

The Frame Bag

Let’s talk about the frame bag. It’s a custom half-frame bag that was handmade exclusively for this project by Marin, California’s VRNCLR. These bags are coyote tan, with lavender lacing and accents. VRNCLR’s bag was purpose-built for this bike and this project with the lace mounting method, and hugged the Super Something’s unique arched top tube perfectly.

It uses one large pocket on the drive side that safely held my camera for photo shoots and a shallow pocket on the non-drive side for smaller items like your phone or wallet, and seems to be a really well-built bag.

In Conclusion

Adam Sklar clearly knows what he’s doing. This bike’s geometry is the story here. Not because it’s some Earth-shaking new idea that throws caution to the wind, and bucks all conventional ways of thinking. It’s the real story here because it’s not that. It’s not something trendy or fly-by-night. It’s not a geometry idea that needs to be “sold” to you. It’s just good, solid, proven bike geometry with Adam’s Super Something twist to it.

For the short-ish time that I had the Super Something, it felt great. It had me wishing that I had one of my own. I found myself wishing that my current gravel bike, had some of the Super Something’s geometry attributes.

I will probably be ordering a Super Something of my own in the near future. It moved me. It’s a really unique-looking, beautifully crafted, great riding frame, and at $1599 for a unique and well-designed steel frameset, I feel it’s a great deal. If bikes like the Super Something are your jam, I would suggest you look into it.

SklarBikes.com

TheProsCloset.com

The post The Sklar Super Something Really is Something Super appeared first on Bikerumor.

Yeti sees a place in today’s world for a playful 27.5” wheeled trail bike, so they created the SB135.

This versatile MTB has everything it needs to handle technical trails, but it keeps its dimensions on the smaller side allowing it to rail tight corners, whip around pumptracks, and jump with a lot more agility than a big ol’ 29er. For those who use their MTBs as all-purpose bikes (or for smaller riders), bigger is not necessarily better.

Below, I’ll cover my impressions of how the Yeti handles itself on-trail, but check out my launch article for all the details and specs on the new SB135s.

2023 Yeti SB135 TURQ TLR Transmission T3 – Basic Specs:

All models of the new SB135 boast full carbon frames, but the TURQ TLR Transmission T3 model I’m testing is built from Yeti’s higher-end TURQ carbon fiber (which is lighter than the C Series carbon used on lesser models).

The SB135 provides 135mm of rear travel via Yeti’s Switch Infinity suspension platform, and Yeti recommends every rider check out their suspension setup calculator to get dialed in. Yeti does tune their shocks for each frame size, and at 145lbs the medium frame’s tune was pretty much dialed for me.

Up front, you’ll find 150mm forks on standard models but given the rough and steep terrain in my area, I tested the beefier ‘Lunch Ride’ build with a 160mm fork. While the SB135 was purposefully designed around its 27.5” wheels, the bike can be mulleted with a 29” front wheel and fork if you desire.

The updated SB135 frames use SRAM’s UDH derailleur hanger and are compatible with SRAM’s new T-Type transmissions. I was stoked to try one out on this bike, and was not disappointed!

The size medium SB135 TURQ TLR Transmission T3 weighed exactly 33 lbs with pedals.

Geometry/Fit:

With a reach of 455mm on a medium frame (on the Lunch Ride build; it grows to 460mm on the standard models), the SB135 is not particularly long for a modern trail bike. That said, 455mm is not that short and the bike doesn’t feel like it lacks anything in front-end length or wheelbase when you’re riding trails. Out back the 433mm chainstays strike a mid-point that ensures a decent amount of stability without losing the snappy handling Yeti intended for the SB135.

With a 65° head tube angle (with the 160mm fork), the SB135 is also just as slack as you’d want a mid-travel trail bike to be. To ensure solid pedaling prowess, the effective seat tube angle is a steep 76.5°. At 340mm the BB height is low enough to provide a stable ride, but I seemed to avoid pedal strikes quite easily with the SB135.

The shorter travel and 27.5” wheels place the SB135 in the playful/whippy category. Still, as far as angles and measurements go, it is basically in line with today’s trail bikes. It definitely feels smaller than a 29” enduro bike, but not too short, small or steep to shred gnarly singletrack.

Climbing:

The SB135 is definitely a solid climber. With the shock in firm position, the bike strongly resists pedal bob and doesn’t wallow in its travel on anything from paved roads to moderately bumpy singletrack. As I recovered from a leg muscle injury, I spent many rides cruising dirt roads and gravel pathways with the SB135, and on this terrain with the shock firmed up the linkage barely flexed under pedaling efforts.

On bumpy singletrack climbs, the shock (in firm mode) resists pedaling forces very well but will move for trail inputs, which provides a great balance of traction and efficiency. Pedaling efforts are very well supported by the shock/linkage, yet the shock will use more than half of its travel on a climb to keep the rear tire glued to roots and rocks. In firm mode, you get a fairly aggressive feeling climb out of this bike; its 135mm travel is enough to ensure good grip but you will feel the 27.5” rear wheel lumping up and over obstacles instead of plowing through them.

If a soft ride is your preference you can climb with the shock left open: In the open position, the bike will bob more and with some stand-up pedaling the shock will dive a bit. You are giving up some pedal support in exchange for increased traction or ride comfort, but this mid-travel machine can still climb pretty well with no help from the shock.

The SB135 is just long and slack enough to provide a well-balanced, ‘between the wheels’ feeling and solid traction at both ends. I noticed the rear wheel feeling slightly light on a few steeper uphill bursts, but I never spun out. I do enjoy how much traction longer rear ends provide on steep climbs, but long chainstays wouldn’t suit the SB135’s playful character, so I like how Yeti’s dimensions keep this bike trail-capable yet agile.

One advantage of the Yeti’s small-ish frame dimensions is it’s easy to shift your body forwards or backward over the bike when required. The SB135’s reasonable weight also makes it easy to heave up over big roots or uphill steps during a climb. The 65° head tube angle was a wise choice for the SB135; it is slack enough to handle steep downhill trails yet keeps the handling fairly nimble for climbing tight switchbacks.

Descending:

Following Fox’s recommendations I achieved a proper rear shock setup right away. After a bumpy descent, I’m typically using 90-95% travel. The linkage does ramp up substantially close to the end of its stroke, which provides ample bottom-out resistance for rough trails, but it’s not so progressive that I couldn’t reach full travel on a drop landing or a hard compression. As a lighter-weight rider, I’m happy when a bike isn’t too progressive for me so I think Yeti hit the nail on the head with their suspension tuning.

The SB135 has less travel than I’m used to riding (150-170mm is typical for B.C.’s Sea-to-Sky Corridor). Given that Yeti’s SB series of MTBs offers several travel options, I don’t think Yeti was shooting to make the SB135 one of those bikes that feels like it has more travel than it does – it’s supposed to be your mid-travel option and it rides accordingly. That said, I think Yeti’s linkage does a great job of rounding off hits of any size, so the SB135 plows through rough terrain a bit better than I expected.

Most of the way through the travel the shock feels fairly linear, so the SB135 gives you the squish you need to smooth out small and medium-sized bumps nicely. Bigger hits are only limited by travel; the linkage still dulls big impacts nicely but it simply can’t absorb what a 150mm or 160mm bike can. Yeti’s Switch Infinity linkage reminded me of Trek’s ABP linkage (which I think is excellent), but a little more poppy and a little less plowy through the rough.

A playful bike like the SB135 should offer good mid-stroke support, and this bike definitely pops nicely (and predictably) off bumps or jumps and joyfully springs out of berms and tight corners. Yeti has delivered the lively ride you’d hope for on a mid-travel bike like this. The wheelbase is short enough to make cornering downright dreamy, so I really enjoyed railing the SB135 through twisty trails. Yeti increased the new SB135’s frame stiffness, but didn’t go nuts. Bearing in mind that frame stiffness is size-specific, I found the medium stiff enough to stay pointed through rocky trails, but there is some forgiveness keeping the ride from feeling excessively harsh. I hopped on a Trek Fuel EX for one comparison ride, and the Trek’s carbon frame is definitely stiffer and less forgiving.

Components:

As for components, let’s start with the SRAM XO Eagle T-Type transmission. Right away I thought “If I can get through this whole review without ever adjusting this drivetrain, I’m going to be really happy,” and the T-Type came through.  After zero out-of-the-box setup, I only experienced some slight skipping in two different gears during all my test rides, and neither gear became consistently problematic. I easily went weeks without any rough gear changes, and shifting was always fast and precise. I’m also impressed with battery life, as I’ve only recharged the derailleur battery once.

I don’t love the ergonomics of the new T-Type shifter pod, but I got used to it quickly. I loved the first AXS shifter, because it keeps its paddles in the same place as SRAM’s cable shifters (which I find perfectly ergonomic). The compact shifter pod looks great, but I think putting both shift buttons on the same plane is a flawed concept – I’d be happier with one button higher up and further back than the other. That said the pod wasn’t annoying or difficult to use, just different from what I’m used to… and I will give SRAM credit for making the pod’s mount highly adjustable. I did nearly kill a battery in the shifter, but even with the battery light flashing red, it got me through quite a few rides.

FOX’s suspension components did their job well. I’m happy Yeti stuck with a 36mm stanchion 160mm Fox Factory 36 Grip 2 Fork, which holds stiff through rough terrain. I was glad to have the longer ‘Lunch Ride’ fork, as it’s definitely suitable for my local trails, and getting the integrated fender included on the stock bike is a nice touch. I’ve described the ride qualities of the Fox Factory Float X rear shock above, and I had no mechanical issues with it or the fork.

I was pleased with the Lunch Ride build’s wide 800mm Yeti carbon handlebar (760mm bars are stocked on non-Lunch Ride builds), and the bigger brake rotors. With 200mm rotors, the Code RSC brakes were actually a bit grabby at times, but mostly felt like typical SRAMs with great modulation and tons of power.

The SB135’s DT Swiss EX1700 wheels held up extremely well, with no warping or hopping at all to report. Of course, the Maxxis Assegai/Minion tire combo provided the solid grip they’re known for and survived my test puncture-free.

The Fox Transfer dropper post has proved reliable. It’s occasionally a bit sticky on the first lift of a ride but it always works fine afterward. Also, getting a 175mm post on a medium frame should keep any rider happy. WTB’s Silverado Custom saddle is familiar to and friendly with my behind, so I wouldn’t rush to swap it out.

The Yeti SB135 TURQ TLR Transmission T3 sells for $9500. Frame color options are Cherry, Turquoise or Rhino (grey), and sizes M/L/XL are available.

yeticycles.com

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The Liv Rail MIPS helmet is, without a shadow of a doubt, the brand’s most premium off-road helmet to date, featuring the lightweight MIPS Air Node liner to help protect against rotation-induced concussions, with a three-part in-mould construction home to a dual-density EPS. Independent helmet safety testers, Virginia Tech, gave it a 5-Star rating, with a score of 11.08 (the lower the better). That puts it in 41st position, just shy of the 11.01 score awarded to the more expensive Troy Lee A3 MIPS.

At $189.99 USD, the Rail is a rightfully feature-packed, lightweight mountain bike helmet, with a full wrap of the EPS giving it a high-end aesthetic. It gets a quality height-adjustable cradle, a magnetic Fidlock buckle securing the highly-adjustable chin strap, and a vent-free top surface for the positioning of an action camera. On that latter point, riders should be aware that a lot of event organizers have banned the securing of action cameras to the helmet body, only allowing them to be placed on the peak.

There are no fewer than twenty ventilation ports. The flexible peak has three-positions, the top-most of which allows for the stowage of googles when not in use.

Liv Rail MIPS MTB Helmet | Review

The Liv Rail MIPS covers head circumferences from 51cm to 59cm with just two sizes; Small for 51-55cm and Medium for 55-59cm. With a head circumference of around 54cm, I was given the Small to test. It weighs in at 335 grams, just shy of the 350 gram claimed weight.

My first impression? I really like the look of this helmet. It has a quality, two-tone finish, glossed up on top with a matte trim. It’s classy, in my opinion.

The rear cradle offers four-position height adjustment to suit a variety of head shapes. The helmet is ponytail compatible if I run the cradle in its lowest position, but at least on my head that does pull the top of the helmet down firmly, creating a pressure point on the front of my skull, just aft of my hairline.

That’s not super comfortable for me, so I prefer to run the cradle in a higher position, forgoing the ability to pop my ponytail through the gap it creates. This makes for a much more comfortable fit, to the point where that pressure point is essentially eliminated.

The retention system can also be tightened at the rear of course, via an easy-to-use dial. It doesn’t cinch the plastic cradle down evenly through 360° as is the case with some other high-end helmets; it tightens from the rear, pulling the cradle forwards, with the front half of the cradle remaining fixed to the EPS. It certainly does the job, however.

In general, the helmet has a slightly wider fit than others I have tested recently; certainly wider than the ABUS Cliffhanger, with a broader shape that is more similar that offered across the range from MET helmets. Indeed, Liv say the Rail was created with use of a new, rounder head form to give an increased fit range.

For me at least, there is a little side-to-side wiggle room, but not so much to concern me. For those who often struggle to find a good fit as a result of having quite a broad temple region, it could be worth giving the Liv Rail a try. Of course, it is always best to try before you buy.

The Liv Rail provides reasonably deep coverage at the rear, but not quite as deep as that delivered by the Troy Lee A3 MIPS.

The Rail’s chin strap is very long, meaning it will adapt nicely to a wide range of wearers. For me, there was a lot of excess strap, but I was able to tuck it securely underneath the small rubber tab on the right side, where it was no trouble at all. It’s great to see the strap can be adjusted at the cam divider so that riders can dial in the perfect fit. It’s so important to get the correct ratio of strap length fore and aft of the ear in order to prevent the helmet being pushed away from your head during a crash. Of course, if you were to roll any distance while crashing hard, there’s a good chance you’ll hit your head more than once.

The MIPS Air Node liner is interesting, in that it is integrated into the comfort liner. It is one of MIPS’ lighter weight offerings, but still delivers 10-15mm of dissociation between the helmet’s main body and the liner that remains in close association with the wearer’s skull. This small amount of free movement is what allows the MIPS liner to reduce the forces involved in impacts where the rider’s head is forced to rotate violently.

The pads contacting the skull/hair are backed with a low-friction plastic liner that sees low-profile pockets of air distributed across its surface. The liner connects to the helmet’s main plastic liner via “nodes”, which are essentially velcro, indicated on the comfort liner by the raised circles and arrows. You can read more about MIPS Air Node, and how to care for it here.

I did manage to get some rogue strands of hair trapped in the liner. That happens with any MIPS equipped helmet I wear, and it doesn’t bother me particularly. If however, it is something that really puts you off, I’d recommend taking a look at Lazer’s range of helmets that use a liner-free technology for dealing with rotational impacts.

I’m happy to report I have not crashed while wearing this helmet, so a full report on its capacity to keep me safe cannot be provided. To conclude this review of the Liv Rail MIPS helmet, here are some Pros and Cons that any prospective purchaser should consider…

Pros

• Very secure, highly adjustable retention system
• Ponytail compatible
• Goggle compatible
• Lightweight
• Well-ventilated
• 5 Star Rating from Virginia Tech

Neutral Comments

• Wider fit for more rounded skulls that are broader in the temple region

Cons

• Nowhere to securely stow sunglasses
• There are a number of cheaper MIPS equipped helmets that have a better (safer) score from Virginia Tech – the Specialized Tactic 4 for example

Pricing & Availability

The Liv Rail MIPS off-road helmet has an SRP of $189.99 USD. Elsewhere, it is priced at $209.99 CAD // $3,390 MXN // 145 EUR in France // 149 EUR in Italy.

It is available as of today in S (51-55cm) and M (55cm-59cm), in Matte Black Diamond (below) and Matte Air Glow (tested).

liv-cycling.com

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Schwalbe’s new fastest road racing tire is the Pro One Aero, a front- & rear-specific pairing that is up to 22% faster in the wind tunnel than the old Pro One TT, while also boosting control, durability, and protection. Developed with different profile shaping, internal construction, and even tread thicknesses to address the different requirements of front and rear tires, the new Pro One Aero is both a faster pair of tires in the wind tunnel and out on the road…

Schwalbe Pro One Aero F&R-specific road racing tires

Schwalbe calls their new Pro One Aero the “next-generation” of competition road bike tires, thanks to front- & rear-specific aerodynamics developed together with Scott and Syncros. The front tire then focuses primarily on reduced aero drag through the clean airflow at the front of the bike and low rolling resistance. The rear prioritizes low rolling resistance, but then also improved reliability through increased puncture protection and longer wearing rubber.

By optimizing the shape of the new aero front tire on modern wide 23-25mm internal rims in the wind tunnel, Schwalbe claims to have achieved “22% less aero resistance” between the new Pro One Aero Front in comparison to the Pro One TT (measured at 45 km/h and on a 28mm wide tire). They say in fact, that the new 28mm Pro One Aero Front even has reduced aero drag when compared to the current 25mm wide Pro One TT – Schwalbe’s previous aerodynamic benchmark.

Out back, the Pro One Aero Rear sits a bit wider to better support the rider’s weight with an incremental bit of extra tire volume, and adds extra RaceGuard puncture protection & 50% thicker rubber for longer, flat-free riding.

Overall, the new Pro One Aero tire pairing does increase rolling resistance by 5% over the no-flat-protection Pro One TT, but with the added security of the anti-puncture layers inside making this more usable as an everyday race tire, not just something to pull out for the special time trial stages.

Tech details

Schwalbe’s focus on the front tire: “Best possible aerodynamics and less weight. 235g.” The 28mm front tire has reduced tread thickness – down to just 0.8mm thick rubber – in a bid to lower both weight and rolling resistance. Schwalbe claims actual widths of 27.5 to 28.5mm from the front tire.

Schwalbe’s focus on the rear tire: “Lowest rolling resistance with high puncture protection. 270g.” The 28mm rear tire bumps tread thickness up to 1.2mm for longer wearing. Yes, that still sounds incredibly thin, and we are putting in the kilometers to see how long they will really last. But it’s really the RaceGuard protection layer that is going to increase durability here. Schwalbe claims actual widths of 29.5 to 30.5mm from the rear tire.

Designed to be fit on modern wide tubeless road bike rims (23-25mm internal), the tires are TLE tubeless-ready and compatible with hookless rims. That also means they have reduced max allowable tire pressure on hookless setups of up to 5bar, which is in the realm of where you will get the most low rolling resistance benefits from road tubeless anyway. Of course, you can also still ride them on hooked rims with tubes at higher pressures too.

First Rides: Both 28mm, but actually narrower/taller up front & wider/shorter out back

We’ve been riding the new Schwalbe Pro One Aero tires both on a set of hookless disc brake Syncros Capital SL & hooked rim brake DT Swiss ARC wheels, both tubeless setups. While we’ve limited ourselves to riding actual roads, I have to admit that we’ve ended up on a touch of gravel roads in Switzerland, Czechia, and Slovakia already… and haven’t had any issues with flats or tire cuts yet.

On the new Syncros Capital SL 40mm wheels which have the same 25mm internal width front & back, at 4.5bar/65psi I measure the Pro One Aero Front at 29.4mm wide & 25.5mm tall above the top of the bead. At the same pressure, the Pro One Aero Rear measures slightly wider at 29.8mm & a bit shorter at 25.0mm.

On the 19mm internal DTs they measured 26.8mm at the rear and 27.5mm on the front.

The differences are quite small (maybe half of Schwalbe’s official claims), but do support Schwalbe’s claim that the F&R construction differences do change the overall tire profile. Interestingly, I’ve also measured up to 1mm width difference between 4 & 5 bar, suggesting that lower front tire pressures (because less weight on the front wheel) may also have an impact making the front tire profile narrower than the rear.

Schwalbe Pro One Aero – Pricing, Availability & Options

Here things get simple. No worrying about different sizes (at least for the time being). The new tubeless-ready Schwalbe Pro One Aero tires come in just one 28mm size that Schwalbe seems to think is the perfect balance of speed, grip & control. Don’t forget, they are actually a bit different width front to back, anyway. The dark gray sidewall front- and rear-specific Pro One Aeros sell for 80€ each, and will be available in shops from this coming October.

We’ve already been putting in hundreds of kilometers on a couple sets this summer and are pleased with how fast they roll, and maybe more importantly – their improved durability!

Schwalbe.com

Schwalbe.com

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