The new Shimano GRX 12-speed drivetrains are officially here. As gravel has evolved, so have the drivetrains and as a result, Shimano is offered three distinct options for the new GRX. You have the choice of a 1×12 with a 10-45t cassette, a 1×12 with a 10-51t cassette, or a 2×12 system with an 11-36t cassette.

I mostly use my gravel bikes for exploring and riding easy MTB trails, so I chose the 1×12 group with a 10-51t cassette for my build (Tyler chose the same). However, even gravel racers are starting to look to wide-range 1x drivetrains – just look at SBT GRVL which was won this year on a 1x drivetrain with a 10-52t cassette, and 52t chainring!

It’s notable here that this group uses the existing 12-speed MTB cassettes and chains for better cross-compatibility and fewer part numbers. Better still, the RX822 rear derailleur has the option to swap out the derailleur cage so you can run either 1x cassette option without having to buy an entirely new derailleur.

You also have the choice with the 1x group of choosing either a left brake lever-only, or a left brake lever with a ‘shifter’ that acts as a dropper post lever. I went with the dropper lever version as I wanted to see if you could run it both with, and without a dropper installed.

Finally, there are some Shimano PRO components to finish off the build.

Shimano RX820 Actual Weights

Starting with the shifters, it’s 296g for the right ST-RX820-R, and 274 for the left ST-RX820-LA . The non-dropper post version (ST-RX820-L) would likely be even lighter if you never plan to run a dropper. The brakes come disconnected and are both exactly 166g. The addition of the front mounting plate makes up for the extra housing length for the rear (1000mm vs 1700mm). And since this is not an electronic group, you’ll need some cables and housing. The shifter includes split housing and a cable that weighs in at 46g. For a lot of bikes, you’ll likely need an additional cable kit if your bike uses full housing.

Going along with the brakes, you’ll need some brake rotors. In this case, Shimano uses the same RT-MT800 rotor for Ultegra, GRX, and Deore XT. This one is a 160mm Centerlock rotor with Freeza tech which weighs 108g. Depending on your frame, you might need the SM-MA-R160D/D brake mount adapter which will add 17g. Included longer brake mount bolts are 14g, while the short ones are 7g.

Moving to the gearing, the rear derailleur for the 51t cassette checks in at 294g. The XT CX-M8100 10-51t cassette weighs 469g. The CN-M8100 12s chain is 283g for the 126L e-bike-rated version with the connecting link.

For the crankset, the RC-RX820-1-12 is a 1×12 crank with a 40t chainring (42t is also an option). This example is a 172.5mm length, and weighs in at 648g without a BB. Shimano still does not make a bottom bracket for BB386. Since I’m planning to build up the T-Lab X3-S I just reviewed, I needed to source my own. Fortunately, Enduro Bearing makes some of the best bottom brackets out there. So they sent over an XD-15p thread-together BB386 for the build that weighs 125g.

Shimano GRX Wheel Actual Weights

Shimano also has a new tubeless wheelset for GRX, mostly because of the new hub requirements. In order to use the exisitng MTB cassettes, the hub needs a Microspline freehub. So, the C32 WH-RX880 wheelset features hooked carbon rims with at 25.32mm internal width, 24 spokes, and sealed bearing hubs with a Microspline freehub. The rear checks in at 779g, while the front is 663 – both weights include tubeless rim tape and valve cores.

Shimano PRO Component Actual Weights

If you want to run a dropper and keep it all in the family, the Discover dropper post is available in a 27.2mm diameter with 70mm travel. The 414g dropper post includes cable and housing which adds another 83g uncut.

Finishing off the build from Shimano, the PRO Discover bar and stem along with an off-road saddle. The stem is an 80mm length with 6º rise with a weight of 160g. The 440mm aluminum bar with a 12º flare is 296g. Both have 31.8mm clamping diameter. The Stealth Off-Road saddle checks in at 202g.

For the complete tech overview on this group, read our launch coverage here.

The post Actual Weights for Shimano GRX RX820 1 x 12 Speed Drivetrain appeared first on Bikerumor.

If you’re a cyclocross maniac, you’re already posting about how #crossiscoming. Those utterly obsessed with the sport are also already building a tire coffer for the upcoming season. Challenge Tires knows better than anyone that August is ‘cross-prep month, and what better time to show off some brand-new designs while everyone’s stoke is at the max?

New Challenge CX Tires?

Challenge Tires is giving something to the elite-performance racer and the master blasters with an assortment of new tubeless race (red) tires and 38mm clinchers/tubulars.

First is the new tubeless clincher version of the famous “team only red” tubular tires. Unlike the red team tubulars, these new Team Edition (H-TLR) tires are available for everyone.

What makes them different than the tan-walled cotton tubeless tires? Well — they are red, and red is fast. Seriously though — when Challenge has a red sidewall tire, that usually denotes “team edition” or top of the heap.

In this instance, it’s the all-new Challenge Handmade 320TPI Team Edition (H-TLR) tire. These are the same tires we reported on back at Sea Otter Classic, but now we’ve had some training and rides and can give a full report (more on that later).

What makes the red side-walled tires slightly different is the casing. The new Team Edition Challenge H-TLRs use a 320TPI pre-sealed cotton casing. This slightly higher TPI (the tan walls are 300TPI) moves the ride slightly closer to a tubular feel while keeping the ease of tubeless protection.

The tread is Challenge’s own SMARTsoft Compound, the same tread compound found on the tubular version but it should be more active when paired with a higher TPI casing. The H-TLR RED Team Edition Cotton Series tires are available in the all-arounder Grifo tread and mud master Limus models for $99 per tire. We received both for our product review but spent most of the time on the Grifo since mud season is also coming, but not here yet.

Challenge TE Red H-TLR — Setup Impressions

The only thing I don’t like about the Challenge H-TLR is the setup, more precisely — mounting the tires. The bead is tight, and Challenge sells a tool to help users ease their mounting woes. But it’s a callous process; I found it less of a bear with the Challenge Gravel tires, but still; rough. Mounting the Team Edition (H-TLR) Grifos was no different than the first H-TLR experience.

Like most challenging tasks, though, the reward is worth it. My past version of the H-TLRs has yet to burp, and I’ve run some questionable pressures in the mud, so I guess the tight bead works. All of Challenge’s H-TLR cross tires are hookless rim compatible.

Challenge Team Edition (H-TLR) — Ride Impressions

Since this is a race tire, I tried to be respectful and keep my pavement time minimal. I like to ride to our local cyclocross course, which would be a great time to work out any possible tire issues.

On the road and limestone trail to the ‘cross course, the tires rolled fast, with a spring to them. I say this, having just come from the H-TLR version of the Grifos on the same wheelset. The Team Edition H-TLR tires have slightly more give and suppleness under the same 35 PSI as the standard H-TLR.

My first sessions on the course were dry and dusty. I kept the tires slightly higher in pressure (around 25-27 PSI) and felt confident in the corners and over roots/rocks. This was the sweet spot for my riding style and the slightly rocky features of the course.

When I dropped the pressure slightly (23-25 PSI), the tires felt more tubular-like but hit the rim more often. The tires did not go flat or puncture after rim dings. The Team Edition Grifo H-TLR tires are more pressure-sensitive than their tan wall counterpart.

When riding the Challenge 300tpi H-TLR tires, I would do a few course recon laps and pressure tests, give a “that as good as it gets,” and roll to the line. With the Team Edition Grifo H-TLR, you can drill down and find that just-right pressure, though it will take a bit like an excellent tubular.

I rode the Team Edition Grifo H-TLR tires in a proper mixed-condition session and was very happy with the tire feedback. The Challenge Team Edition H-TLR tires are the closest you can get to a tubular feel. The softened and suspension-like feel of the tire is very close to a tubular, and the rolling sensation is right on the money.

Product Details — Challenge TE Red H-TLR

• Size 700×33 / 33-622, UCI-legal
• Color Red casing, black tread
• Treads: Grifo, Limus
• Weight 390-392g
• Retail Price $99.99
• Available: Now

Challenge H-TLR and Tubular 38mm Tires

For those outside the UCI — 33mm width only rule, Challenge has released a dedicated 38mm H-TLR and 38mm tubular version of their Grifo and Limus tires.

The construction and tread are identical to the 33mm version, with about 31mm overall tread coverage. The only real difference about this product is the 38mm size offered. Challenge Tires is one of a select few making a dedicated 38mm cyclocross race tire, especially in a 38mm tubular.

I still abide by the 33mm tread width rule, but I couldn’t help but wonder how the 38mm tubular would handle out on a twisty cyclocross course. Yes — 38mm and wider gravel tires are used to race cyclocross, but a tubular has a slightly different feel.

I frequently train and race gravel on 38mm tires, but I was intrigued by the thought of a 38mm tubular, especially in the Grifo tread. The 38mm plus sizing is popular with riders looking for extra cushion, surviving bumpy courses, and doubles nicely as a gravel go-to.

Unlike a clincher, the tubular has a specific width to which it will inflate and a dedicated glue base tape to which the rim will adhere, making it 38mm and no larger. Challenges use the same base tape for the 38mm tubular tires as they do for the 33mm version.

I understand this decision, as there are no super wide rims to glue a wider base tape onto. The only ones that come to mind are the Shimano XTR Tubular MTB Wheels and the now-defunct Vittoria Tubular MTB wheels (both excellent). Maybe we will see more emerge with the hopeful popularity of 38mm race tubulars.

For the wheels, I settled on one of my favorites, the Hunt Tubular Race Wheels with a modern 25mm width for the 38mm tubular Grifo review rides. The tire wasn’t too big for the rim, and the base tape was a perfect fit.

There was nothing out of the ordinary about getting the 38mm Challenge Tubulars set up and rolling. The tire needed a day of pre-stretch, and mounting was straightforward and required minimal adjustment.

Challenge 38mm Girfo Tubular — First Ride Impressions

I took the Challenge Grifo 38mm tubulars out on our regular training circuit for some laps with the crew. The tire boasts all the suppleness of a tubular (duh), and the 38mm size soaked up much of the bumpy, freshly cut track.

Pressure-wise, the 38mm width can take some time to fine-tune. I was running around 23-25psi in the mud and could balance the squish of the casing, and the excellent feel of suppleness and grip. Regarding turning, the front wheel has a slightly different feel but nothing that would be hard for most riders to adjust.

The tread sits very high on the casing and doesn’t wrap around like most tubular treads. This is likely from the 33mm and the 38mm using the same tread. The high tread doesn’t interfere with the performance; it looks like a Dugast Typhoon and performs just as well as the 33mm.

Yes – there is a slight weight penalty (485g for the tubular and 427g for the H-TLR), but the ride quality definitely balances that out. I’m excited to race these at some masters races this year, especially on bumpy tracks cut the day before. I can see 38mm tubulars making a big impression on those leaving the 33mm bubble and moving from the UCI fields. The comfort and planted pedaling sensation is enough to give them a try; just make sure you’re bike will accommodate.

Product Details — Challenge (H-TLR) and Tubular 38mm

• Size 700×38 / 38-622 (non-UCI legal) 700×38 tubular
• Color: Black tread, tan casing
• Weight ~ 427g Grifo / 422g Limus / 485g Grifo Tubular
• Retail Price $84.99 HTLR / $99.00 Tubular
• Available: Now

For more info and to purchase, check out ChallengeTires.com

The post CX Tire Review: Challenge Team Edition Red H-TLR Tires & 38mm Grifo Tubular appeared first on Bikerumor.

If you are a road cyclist, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your efficiency and comfort on the bike. This seemingly simple component is a critical workhorse on your bike as it is subject to many thousands of revolutions and all the pedaling forces applied from your legs.

Along with your road bike shoes, your road bike pedals form one of only three contact points between you and your machine, and it is particularly important when it comes to efficiency. Creating a mechanical connection between the sole of your shoe and the pedal, clipless road pedals help to maximize your pedaling effort throughout the pedal stroke while keeping your foot in the optimal position for transferring your power into the drivetrain. With stiff axles, lightweight bodies, and broad platforms, road bike pedals also provide stability, comfort, and control, while adjustments to cleat positioning, float, and entry/release tension allow you to optimize their fit, feel, and performance to your specific needs.

With so many options to choose from, finding the right pair of road bike pedals can be a challenge. To help, we rounded up a diverse selection of models from Shimano, Look, Time, and Speedplay to test and compare side by side. Whether you’re new to clipless road pedals or are upgrading from an old pair, there are great options to suit all riding styles, performance needs, and budgets.

After months of testing, we’ve chosen our favorite models which are listed below followed by the best of the rest that are all worthy contenders as well. To see the specs of the models we tested at a glance, check out our handy comparison chart. If you need help deciding what to buy or simply want to learn more about road bike pedals, our buying advice and FAQ section have the info you need.

The Best Road Bike Pedals of 2023

• Best Overall Road Bike Pedals: Shimano Dura-Ace SPD-SL
• Best Value Road Bike Pedals: Shimano 105 SPD-SL
• Runner-Up Best Road Bike Pedals: Time XPro 12
• Best Race-Specific Road Bike Pedals: Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic
• Best Road Bike Pedals for Adjustability: Wahoo Speedplay Nano
• Best Road Bike Pedals for Beginners: Time Xpresso 2

Best Overall Road Bike Pedals

Shimano Dura-Ace SPD SL

Specs

• MSRP $280.00
• Weight (pedals only) 235 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless Steel
• Body Carbon Fiber/Stainless Steel

Pros

• Great stiffness to weight ratio
• Simple cleat installation
• Quiet
• +4mm axle option offered

Cons

• Fairly expensive

Bennett Shane

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedal is an uncompromised triumph of engineering and performance. It has no faults, downsides, or quirks, just pure race-winning efficiency, set-it-and-forget durability, and quiet simplicity. While researching these pedals, Google suggested the search “are Dura Ace pedals worth it?” At $280, it’s a question worth asking, but we say HECK yes!

Across the bike industry, many products are touted for their superior “stiffness-to-weight” ratio. It’s a simple-to-understand, and therefore simple-to-market concept – that something can be both lightweight and able to handle all the power you can throw at it. Most of the time this stiffness-to-weight narrative over-simplifies something that deserves a more nuanced assessment, like a frame or wheelset. But in the case of pedals, especially those meant for racing, stiffness to weight is bullet point number one. Overall, including cleat hardware, they are one of the lightest options on the market, and from the moment you first stomp on them, it’s evident that they are supremely stiff.

The latest version of the Dura-Ace pedal is the 9200, identical to the Dura-Ace 9100 model that “preceded” it. In fact, the core design of all Shimano SPD-SL road pedals hasn’t changed in decades. This design, dubbed “SPD-SL” is easy to install and adjust, runs smooth and quiet, and transfers power from your shoes to your crank arms with as little waste as possible. Thanks to oversized stainless steel axles and injection-molded carbon fiber body, you can actually feel a difference in the Dura-Ace model out on the road. It’s subtle, but there is just a bit less lateral flex through the pedal, and this creates a very pleasing feel under higher power efforts.

Installing the Shimano cleats is a breeze. Simply dab some grease on the threads of the bolts grab a 5mm torque wrench tool, and bolt the cleats to the sole of your shoe, including the provided rectangular washer. Slide the cleat around to adjust the fore/aft and toe in/out if needed. Shimano provides blue cleats with less “float” (2 degrees) with the Dura Ace 9200, which is a nice touch. Most folks who choose the 9200 pedal will appreciate the markedly locked-in feel that the lower float cleats provide. If it’s too rigid, you can always replace the cleats with the standard float option (6 degrees), which uses yellow color coding, and allows a bit more lateral movement in the ankle and knee, or for those who want no float, the red cleats have 0 degrees. Anyone with a wider stance width preference can also purchase the +4mm spindle version.

Release tension is adjusted independently, and has no bearing on how the pedal feels once the cleat has engaged. That said, all Shimano pedals require an intentional sideways kick to release the cleat. While this does take slightly more effort than other brands, the benefit is that the cleat will never come out of the pedal unexpectedly or even vaguely feel as though it might. Engaging the cleat requires some learning, but once you master the toe-in, heel-down sequence, it becomes intuitive and automatic.

Shimano’s Dura-Ace SPD-SL pedals are reliable to the point of being a “set-it-and-forget-it” component. They never make noise, not even in the sloppiest of winter conditions. Shimano isn’t disrupting the pedal market with the Dura Ace 9200, but it is continuing to dominate it because no other pedal offers the performance, simplicity, and reliability of this pedal.

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Best Value Road Bike Pedals

Shimano 105 SPD-SL

Specs

• MSRP $149
• Weight (pedals only) 265 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless steel
• Body Carbon composite with steel contact plates

Pros

• Reasonable price
• Relatively lightweight
• Adjustable release tension
• Similar performance to higher priced siblings at lower price

Cons

• Slightly heavier weight

Bennett Shane

It’s fair to ask what even separates Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals from its value-packed 105 PD-R7000 SPD-SL pedal, which is roughly half the cost. The two look virtually identical, with carbon fiber bodies with stainless contact plates, and both feature wide-set high-quality axle bearings. Although the 105 PD-R7000 are a bit heavier than their Dura-Ace and Ultegra siblings, due to being comprised of slightly different materials, the lower price and nearly identical performance mean that the Shimano 105 PD-R7000 is an excellent value. 

Functionally, the Shimano 105 pedals work nearly identically to the more expensive Ultegra and Dura-Ace models. The primary difference is that they weigh about 30 grams more for the pair, a difference that will likely go unnoticed by all but the most discerning of riders. They still have the same size wide platform for excellent contact and lateral stability, although the steel contact plates are smaller. They also share the same cleat attachment system with adjustable entry and release tension controlled by turning a small screw on the rear. The 105 pedals also share the same cleats, and installing them is quite easy.

Unlike the Dura-Ace pedals, the 105 model comes with Shimano’s yellow cleats that have 6 degrees of float. This provides a more forgiving interface for those who prefer more float or are just getting used to clipless pedals. Both the blue (2 degrees) and the red (0 degrees) are available aftermarket for those who prefer a tighter feel. Another difference is that the 105 pedals are not offered in a +4mm spindle option, so those looking to widen their stance width will still need to spring for the more expensive options.

On the bike, the 105 pedals perform dutifully and give little, if anything, to complain about. Clipping in requires the same toe-in, heel-down motion, that quickly becomes second nature. Assuming your cleats are adjusted properly, releasing from the pedals is just as easy with a twist of the heel, and unexpected clip-outs are a total non-issue, in our experience. They also spin smoothly, and unlike some other brands, remain virtually silent underfoot for seasons on end.

If you’re willing to accept a slight weight penalty, the Shimano 105 SPD-SL pedals are an excellent option that performs nearly on par with the higher-tier options in the brand’s lineup. There are less expensive pedals, but we feel the ratio of price to performance makes the 105 one of the best values on the market.

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Runner-Up Best Road Bike Pedals

Time XPro 12

Specs

• MSRP $317
• Weight (pedals only) 188 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 85 grams
• Spindle Titanium
• Body Carbon

Pros

• Excellent stiffness
• iClic offers easy clip-in
• Lightweight
• Aero design
• Adjustable tension with 3 settings

Cons

• Floaty feel can take some getting used to
• Max rider weight of 90 kg (198.4 lbs)
• Expensive

Bennett Shane

Originally based in France, Time was recently acquired by SRAM and continues to make excellent pedals across all disciplines. Time has a unique design that we’ll detail below, and a loud and proud European aesthetic that adds to the aggressive look of any road bike. The Xpro 12 is one step down from the range-topping, and wildly expensive, XPro 15, and it will save you a bunch of money in comparison, though they still aren’t exactly cheap either.

The XPro 12 features a carbon fiber body and titanium axle, both of which are expected features in a pedal at the $317 US price point. What is certainly not expected about the XPro 12 is the fairing that graces the bottom of the pedal and claims to make the pedal more aerodynamic. Is this noticeable in use, not necessarily, but Time still deserves kudos for giving the XPro 12 a highly stylized aero treatment. The fairing immediately grabs your attention, as it’s adorned with a large Time logo against a bright red backdrop. The faring also serves the purpose of protecting the carbon body from damage during crashes and from the routine abuse that almost all pedals take, since they sit far outboard of the frame of the bike. 

Clipping in and out of the Time XPro 12 is a pleasure. The iClic system delivers a more fluid and free step-in than any other pedal in this test. Time’s iClic design remains open whenever the cleat is disengaged from the pedal, and therefore is able to freely accept the cleat during the next step-in. Complimenting the iClic design is the oversized 725mm-squared surface area of the pedal, which provides added confidence during step-in, and a very solid base for throwing down big power. 

Float in the stock “free” cleat ranges between -5 to +5 degrees, and zero-float cleats are available for those who simply want a locked-in feel without any float adjustment. They also have 2.5mm of lateral float, which is noticeable. The 16-degree release angle of the XPro 12 feels very easy to unclip, without creating any fears that the cleat would disengage unexpectedly. The release tension is also adjustable between 3 different tension levels of the carbon blade, so you can fine-tune the XPro 12 to your preference in this regard. 

Out on the road, the XPro 12 delivers what you’d expect, which is a fluid, light feeling at the cranks, and quiet performance. Although Time pedals don’t have the same absolutely locked-in feel of Shimano SPD-SL, it’s easy to recommend them just as quickly to a rider who isn’t already accustomed to the Shimano feel. If you want to try a high-quality, and easy-to-use alternative to Shimano SPD-SL or Look Keo, the Time XPro 12 is worth a close look. It’s a classy product that will add an undeniable European flare to any road bike.

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Best Race-Specific Road Bike Pedals

Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic

Specs

• MSRP $252
• Weight (pedals only) 220 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly+
• Body Carbon

Pros

• Lightweight
• Stiff
• Innovative design
• Sleek looking
• Adjustable tension with swappable carbon blades

Cons

• Creaky cleats
• Carbon blades don't feel the most robust
• Tension adjustment is time consuming

Bennett Shane

Look has always been at the cutting edge of clip-in cycling pedals, having brought the first widely-adopted model to market in 1984 with the PP65. Core design elements of the PP65 endure in many of Look’s pedal offerings to this day. The Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal, however, represents a radical shift from the norm, by substituting a traditional steel spring with a  “blade” of carbon fiber that flexes open and returns shut to secure the cleat. 

Thanks to this blade of carbon fiber – handsomely decorated with Look’s Mondrian graphics –  the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic achieves supreme weight savings, coming in at just 290g for the pair including cleats. This is even slightly lighter than Shimano’s flagship Dura-Ace pedals, which are our overall favorite. Stiffness and efficiency are also on par with Dura-Ace, thanks to a low 14.8mm stack height, and hardened steel axles. As the model name indicates, the Blade Carbon Ceramic also features ceramic axle bearings, which roll ultra-smooth and are not an option with Dura-Ace.

Out on the road, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic performs brilliantly, with a fluid but stiff response to even the angriest accelerations. These are pedals for racing, so it’s no surprise that they feel this way. The stock 12Nm tension carbon blades provide plenty of cleat security without feeling overly resistant to clip-ins, accompanied by a resonant and affirmative click. They come with Look’s Keo Grip cleats that have a small patch of TPU at the front and back to add a little grip when walking, with the standard version offering 4.5 degrees of float. Look also sells 0-degree and 9-degree float cleats if you prefer more or less float.

While the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic are great-looking, lightweight, and high-performing pedals, there is an issue that seems to affect every Look pedal and actually stems from the cleat – persistent noise. Second, adjusting the release tension requires changing out the carbon blade, using multiple tools. It’s not something you’re going to do frequently, and perhaps never, but it is remarkable that the pedal has to be partially disassembled in order to make such a basic adjustment. Lastly, we have seen the blades crack. While this didn’t happen to our test pair, it is something we have witnessed twice. Look does offer a two-year warranty, and we would recommend stashing the extra blades provided in your saddle bag for any remote riding on these pedals.

Despite the abovementioned concerns, the performance of the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic is impressive and certainly makes them fit for the purpose of racing. Recreational riders might be better served by Look’s Keo Max, which uses a traditional metal spring, but those looking for the super-smooth performance of ceramic bearings in a sleek and lightweight package should check out the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic. Anyone looking to save a little money can opt for the Keo Blade Carbon with stainless steel bearings and a slight increase in weight.

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Best Road Bike Pedals for Adjustability

Wahoo Speedplay Nano

Specs

• MSRP $450
• Weight (pedals only) 170 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 163 grams
• Spindle Titanium
• Body Carbon composite

Pros

• Light and very low profile pedals
• Low stack height
• Clean looks
• Dual-sided engagement

Cons

• Expensive
• Heavier cleats create higher system weight
• Complicated cleat setup
• Not well suited to dirty conditions
• Maximum rider weight of 82kg (180 lbs)

Bennett Shane

Representing a departure from the more common style of pedals and cleats from Shimano, Look, and Time, Speedplay brings something unique to the table. While the brand has been around for a long time, they were recently acquired by Wahoo Fitness which has brought the pedals back to market. The Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals deliver low weight, dual-sided engagement, clean looks, and adjustable float. Cleat installation is complex relative to other options. Still, once they are adjusted correctly, Speedplay pedals are indeed very nice to ride, with a fluid pedaling feel and lots of adjustability that could potentially unlock greater comfort and efficiency than more traditional options.

The Speedplay Nano is the top-tier option in the brand’s 4 models (not including the Powrlink power meter options), and they feature high-end materials like a brushed titanium spindle, along with carbon fiber in the circular-shaped body of the pedal. This combination of materials keeps the weight to a scant 170g for the pair (pedals only), bolsters stiffness, and enhances the aesthetics of any high-end road machine. Additionally, they have the lowest stack height of any model on the market, at just 11.5mm (or as low as 8.5mm with 4-bolt shoes), which promises marginally better cornering clearance.

While your bike might look and feel more svelte with Speedplay pedals installed, it is worth noting that the cleats are heavier than most, which results in a higher system weight than other high-end options. The reason Speedplay cleats weigh more is that instead of a standard 3-bolt cleat interface, they use a 4-bolt system that requires an adaptor (included) to work with most road bike shoes (unless you have 4-bolt shoes). This adaptor bolts to the shoes, and the cleat on top of that. The walkable cleat covers slip onto the cleats. It’s a relatively complex stack of hardware, and with all those layers, comes some extra weight. 

Like any other cleats, they can be adjusted fore-aft, left-right, and angled for the desired positioning. They also offer adjustable float between 0 and 15 degrees as well as an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. All this adjustability should allow most users to find their perfect settings and potentially help mitigate knee pain for some riders. Our only complaint about the adjustability is that it requires a small Phillips head screwdriver when a hex head would be more likely already in the toolbox and help prevent stripping the head. Installing and adjusting the cleats requires care and some patience, including reading the printed directions. Once the float is adjusted right, however, the pedals feel awesome.

On the road, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano has a light, smooth, and efficient feel. While clipping in isn’t any easier than other pedals, it becomes automatic within a few rides. With most of the system’s mass contained in the cleats and connected directly to the shoes, they feel rigid and stable when ramping up the power. If you are already accustomed to the locked-in feeling of the other brands, however, take note that Speedplay pedals are easier to disengage, and in turn, don’t feel quite as secure during super hard efforts. Excessive ankle movement during the pedal stroke could result in the cleats disengaging from the pedals unexpectedly. We found this to be more common with the “easy tension” cleats that come with the Comp version, though it still happened a few times with the “standard tension” cleats of the Nano.

Walking with Speedplay cleats is easy, thanks to the walkable cleat cover that’s included in every set of pedals. Still, it’s important to avoid walking on surfaces that could cause debris to collect inside the cleat, and the same goes for riding. These cleats need to remain clean to engage the pedal securely, so they may require frequent cleaning should you ride in dirty conditions with any regularity.

Overall, the Wahoo Speedplay Nano is a beautifully engineered and manufactured pedal, that does provide a wonderfully smooth feel underfoot. They wouldn’t be our first choice for dirty conditions or super hard, sprint-effort style riding, but smooth pedalers, or those looking for more adjustability than other brands offer may find a lot to like here.

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Best Road Bike Pedals for Beginners

Time XPresso 2

Specs

• MSRP $69
• Weight (pedals only) 230 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 85 grams
• Spindle Steel
• Body Glass composite

Pros

• iClic makes clipping in super easy
• Very affordable
• Similar design and performance to Time's higher-end options

Cons

• Floaty feel may not be for everyone
• Not self serviceable

Bennett Shane

Time makes a wide range of road bike pedals, from the nearly range-topping XPro 12, down to the super affordable XPresso 2. At just $69, these are an accessible entry point to road clipless, and they feature a similar design and performance to the brand’s much more expensive options.

In our opinion, one of the best features of the Xpresso 2 is the iClic system that makes getting in and out of the pedals very easy, which is especially attractive for those new to clipless. When you clip out, the mechanism remains open until you clip back in, making these some of the easiest and most intuitive pedals to use. Still, they have three settings of tension adjustment to dial them in to your liking, as well as a large 700 mm-squared contact area.

The Xpresso 2 comes with iClic free foot cleats that allow +5 and -5 degrees of float. Additionally, they allow for 2.5mm of lateral movement, which may also appeal to those starting out who don’t want to feel too locked in to their pedals. The 16-degree release angle makes clipping out fairly easy while also helping to prevent unexpected releases. The Xpresso 2 are also compatible with Time’s fixed cleats that have 0 degrees of float and don’t allow any lateral movement for those who prefer a more solid connection.

For riders who are new to clipping in, the XPresso 2 makes a strong case by offering the iClic system at just $69. It is tangibly easier to use than any other clip-in pedal and will make you wonder why you ever waited to clip into your road bike. Those willing to spend a little more can find the same ease of use in the XPresso 4 and the XPresso 7, which have the same design but use slightly different materials and are both quite reasonably priced.

Check Price at REICheck Price at Amazon

Best of the Rest

Shimano Ultegra SPD SL

Specs

• MSRP $200
• Weight (pedals only) 248 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 72 grams
• Spindle Stainless steel
• Body Carbon composite and stainless steel contact plates

Pros

• Excellent stiffness to weight
• Simple cleat installation
• Quiet
• +4mm spindle option offered
• More affordable than Dura-Ace

Cons

• None

Bennett Shane

By using slightly heavier materials and placing slightly less emphasis on axle stiffness than its Dura-Ace counterpart, the Ultegra SPD-SL pedal from Shimano makes a strong case as a better option for most recreational riders. The PD-R8100 retains all the same attributes that made the Dura Ace pedals the winner of this test – excellent stiffness to weight, easy cleat set-up, and a silent and maintenance-free service life – but at a significant cost saving. 

Starting with an extra-wide injection-molded carbon fiber body, the Ultegra PD-R8100 asserts itself as a serious performance component. The substantial width of the pedal body distributes pedaling forces across a larger area of the foot for added efficiency and comfort on long rides.

The use of carbon keeps the weight down to 248g for the pair of pedals, only about 13 grams heavier than the Dura-Ace version. 

Moving inboard to the axle reveals the first easily discernable difference from the Dura Ace pedals, as the outer diameter of the axle is not quite as wide, resulting in a little bit more flex under big surges of power. Still, the Ultegra pedals acquit themselves well here, as it takes a huge wallop of wattage to even notice this slight difference. Within the axle, wide-spaced bearings ensure stable and even load distribution, helping the bearings stay smooth for many thousands of miles.

Unlike the Dura-Ace version, Shimano provides the standard, yellow cleats with 6 degrees of float, which is in keeping with the needs of recreational road riders who prioritize comfort as well as efficiency. Those who desire less float and purchase the blue (2.5 degrees) or red (0 degree) cleats and swap them out. Installation is quick and easy with the standard 3-bolt design that works on most road shoes. Entry and release tension is easily adjusted to suit your preference. Additionally, Shimano sells a +4mm spindle version for those looking to increase their stance width slightly.

Engaging the cleat involves the familiar toe-in and heel-down movement that most road pedals require and it becomes second nature. Clicking out does require a relatively deliberate twist of the heel and, while it may take a little more force than some other brands, it provides some assurance that your feet won’t unexpectedly come flying off the pedals when you’re putting down a hard effort.

If you want 95% of the performance of Dura-Ace with only the slightest weight penalty and $80 in your pocket to put towards other bike parts, the Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals are a no-brainer. These are one component you can put on your bike and not think about for thousands of miles because they work, and they work well.

Check Price at Competitive Cyclist

Look Keo 2 Max Carbon

Specs

• MSRP $137
• Weight (pedals only) 252 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly+
• Body Carbon with stainless steel contact plate

Pros

• Fairly light and stiff
• Simple, proven retention system
• Easy to operate
• Relatively affordable

Cons

• Cleats can be noisy
• Not the lightest

Bennett Shane

Weighing only 12 additional grams, and utilizing a more conventional spring-style tension system, the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon is a compelling alternative to the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals, at well under half the cost. 

The Keo 2 Max features a broad stainless steel plate to create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat, capable of withstanding race-winning efforts or just helping save a few watts during your next weekend adventure. The pedal body, as the name suggests, is injection-molded carbon fiber, which brings the overall weight down to a competitive 252g for the set (pedals only), and further bolsters stiffness. 

The most basic duty of a pedal is to secure the cleat, and to that end, the Keo 2 Max Carbon arguably is the best choice among Look’s offerings. While the more expensive Keo Blade is certainly an innovative design, which forgoes the traditional spring-tension design in favor of flexible carbon fiber “blades”, the Keo 2 Max sticks to the tried-and-true spring design, and thereby prioritizes reliability and affordability, while only adding a handful of grams. Opinions may vary, but we feel it seems like a more robust design than the Keo Blade Carbon, regardless of the fact that it costs significantly less. 

On the road, the Keo 2 Max Carbon is adequately stiff and provides excellent stability throughout all kinds of riding. Clipping in and out is easy and predictable thanks to the width of the pedal body. Not only is it easy to locate the entry point, but the shape of the pedal allows for instant confidence when pushing down hard to engage the spring and clip in. The efficiency of the Keo 2 Max Carbon feels excellent, thanks to high-quality steel axle bearings. The provided cleats offer a modest 4.5 degree of float, which should work well for most riders. Look offers replacement cleats in both 0 and 9 degrees of float for those with different needs. 

One of the only drawbacks to this and other Look pedals is the potential for the cleats to be noisy. We, and many others, have experienced this issue and it is something we hope Look eventually addresses with an update to the plastic used in their cleats as it slightly diminishes the user experience of an otherwise great product. 

Overall, there are no surprises with the Keo 2 Max Carbon. This pedal represents a refinement of everything that has made Look pedals great for decades. Racers on a budget and enthusiast riders should consider this pedal, as it will keep their bikes light, and provide a stiff, efficient, reliable connection to the crank arms without draining your bank account. 

Check Price at REI

Wahoo Speedplay Comp

Specs

• MSRP $150
• Weight (pedals only) 233 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 163 grams
• Spindle Chromoly
• Body Grivory (composite)

Pros

• Affordable Speedplay performance
• Low stack height
• Micro-adjustable
• Dual-sided engagement

Cons

• Cleats disengage too easily
• Complex cleat installation
• Heavy cleats create heavier system
• Cleats not suited to dirty conditions

Bennett Shane

Since being taken over by Wahoo Fitness, Speedplay road bike pedals have returned to the market and offer something completely different than the majority of other brands on the market. The Speedplay Comp is the least expensive model in the lineup, bringing a similar design and performance at a third of the cost of the top-tier Speedplay Nano.

Just like their more expensive siblings, the Speedplay Comp is based around a small, disc-shaped pedal body that has sleek, minimalist looks, an impressively low stack height, and allows for dual-sided entry. They use a slightly heavier Chromoly spindle and Grivory composite body material, but the pedals themselves are still fairly lightweight at just 233 grams for the pair. Unlike the Nano, which has a 180 lbs rider weight limit, the Comp has no weight restrictions.

Compared to more traditional pedal styles, the Speedplay Comp uses a 4-bolt cleat design that requires the use of an included adaptor on the majority of road bike shoes (unless they are 4-bolt shoes). The addition of the adaptor adds some complexity to the cleat mounting process, as well as some additional weight with the cleats plus adaptor coming in around 163 grams and bumping the total system weight up above similarly priced options from other brands. That said, they are more adjustable than most, and the walkable cover of the Speedplay cleats does make it relatively easy to walk around in your shoes.

Given the added complexity of the cleat installation process, we recommend paying attention to the included instructions to be sure you get it right. The nice thing is they offer fore-aft, side-to-side, and angle adjustments, as well as adjustable float from 0-15 degrees and an adjustable release angle between 0 and 7.5 degrees. This is more adjustability than most traditional systems offer, and it may be great for those who are seeking a very personalized pedal interface to enhance comfort or optimize their biomechanics and ergonomics.

The Speedplay Comp comes with “easy tension” cleats that allow for slightly easier entry and release, as compared to the “standard tension” version that has a more secure hold. It’s worth mentioning that these pedals are much easier to release from than other styles and they don’t provide as secure or locked-in of a feel, comparatively speaking. They do provide plenty of stiffness and a very smooth, fluid pedaling feel, but we found that super hard sprint efforts or lots of ankle movement could result in unexpected disengagement. We do, however, also expect that is something you’ll adapt to over time.

Another thing worth mentioning is that the cleats don’t get along well with dirt, so we’d recommend against using them for gravel riding or other dirty conditions. The cleat/pedal interface needs to be kept clean to clip in securely, so if you do get them dirty, they will likely require cleaning.

All that said, the Speedplay Comp is an affordable entry point for this unique pedal system. If you’re seeking more adjustability than traditional pedals offer or you just want to try something different, the Speedplay Comp is a slick-looking option that won’t break the bank.

Check Price at REI

Look Keo Classic 3 Plus

Specs

• MSRP $83
• Weight (pedals only) 280 grams
• Weight (cleats and hardware) 70 grams
• Spindle Chromoly
• Body Composite

Pros

• Affordable
• Easy cleat setup
• Intuitive use
• Stainless contact plates add stiffness

Cons

• Noise from the cleats
• Slightly heavier than more expensive options

Bennett Shane

The Keo 3 Classic Plus is an affordable, entry-level pedal from Look that features all the hallmarks of the Keo design, plus two stainless steel plates that create a secure and efficient connection between the pedal and cleat surface, saving you energy mile after mile. 

Much like the rest of Look’s road pedals, clipping into the Keo Classic 3 Plus is intuitive, and the cleat tension is easy to adjust to your preference with a small hex tool. They come with standard cleats that allow for 4.5 degrees of float, which is likely the sweet spot for most riders. Both 0-degree and 9-degree cleat options are also offered as an aftermarket purchase should have different needs. Cleat set-up is also very straightforward and quick with the traditional 3-bolt cleat that works on most road shoes.

With a sturdy Chromoly spindle and a Composite pedal body with 2 steel contact plates, the Keo Classic 3 Plus performs well out on the road. They feel stiff, stable, and responsive. Though the platform width and contact area are a bit smaller at 60mm wide and 400 mm squared, they still provide a large enough surface area and support for most recreational riding and riders.

Our test pair of Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals felt very smooth and efficient, likely due to the use of high-quality steel bearings. The use of less exotic materials, however, does result in a slightly heavier weight, which at 350 grams for pedals and cleats isn’t terribly heavy, especially considering the price. And, like most Look pedals, the cleats are a little more prone to creating noise compared to other brands.

Overall, the Keo Classic 3 Plus is a modern take on Look’s classic pedal designs. While they won’t blow you away with their performance, they are easy to get along with and are a sensible option for those just starting out with clipless that will absolutely get the job done at a very approachable price point.

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Road Bike Pedals Comparison Chart

Why Should You Trust Bikerumor?

For well over a decade, the Bikerumor team has been reporting on the latest news, technology, and products across all disciplines of cycling. Our staff is made up of passionate riders who enjoy all types of riding and are obsessed with finding the best products to enhance their experience and performance on the bike. From bike frames to wheels, shoes to bib shorts, and everything in between, we know that having the right gear can make a huge difference. We also have the luxury and privilege of testing the latest and greatest products, including pedals, for product launches, individual reviews, and buyer’s guides.

Our road bike pedals buyer’s guide tester and review author, Bennett Shane, has over two decades of road cycling experience. While his racing days are largely behind him, he still enjoys putting in big miles, long climbs, and fast, mountain descents on roads throughout the Pacific Northwest near his home in Portland, OR. In addition to his wealth of cycling experience, Bennett has worked for several prominent brands in the cycling industry which has given him unique insight into the design, materials, and construction of products across categories spanning from apparel to components. Combined, his industry and cycling experience give him the ability to understand products from both sides of the table, but most importantly as a consumer, and he has developed an excellent ability to tease out the often subtle performance differences in the products he tests. Bennett has spent an inordinate amount of time on his road bikes this year testing and reviewing a variety of road cycling gear including high-performance road bike shoes, protective road bike helmets, and the best cycling bib shorts.

After rounding up 10 of the best road bike pedals on the market, Bennett mounted them up on his small fleet of road bikes and hit the pavement. Each model was tested over the course of several months, switching regularly between models for comparison. Back-to-back testing provides the opportunity to truly compare products side by side and identify performance differences that may otherwise go unnoticed. Each model’s design and construction were also examined and scrutinized along with adjustments and features to see how effective they really are. After extensive testing, favorites were identified, and our findings are presented here.

Buying Advice: How To Choose Road Bike Pedals

Finding the right pair of road bike pedals can enhance your comfort and efficiency on the bike. While many seasoned road bikers probably already have a brand preference, those looking to switch it up or who are just jumping into clipless pedals for the first time have some decisions to make. Assuming you are ready to purchase some pedals, what factors should influence your choice? We know that navigating the myriad models, materials, and marketing jargon can be confusing, so let’s dive into the details so you can make an informed purchase decision.

What Are Road Bike Pedals?

Along with road bike shoes, road bike pedals are a very important component as they serve as one of just three contact points between your body and your bike. They are an essential part of the energy transfer system between your legs and your drivetrain. But what exactly are road bike pedals and how do they differ from other types?

Pedals generally fall into three categories. There are clipless road bike pedals (3-bolt cleats), clipless mountain bike pedals (2-bolt cleats), and flat pedals. Whether you are a serious or recreational road cyclist, we recommend using road bike specific clipless pedals because they are designed and purpose-built for the task. That’s not to say that you can’t road bike with any type of pedals, because you certainly can, it’s just that road bike pedals are specifically made for the application. Clipless road bike pedals differ from their clipless mountain bike counterparts in several ways.

One of the main things that sets clipless road pedals apart is the 3-bolt cleat “standard”. With the exception of Wahoo Speedplay pedals that use a 4-bolt cleat (and come with a 3-bolt adaptor to work on most road bike shoes), nearly all road bike pedals use a 3-bolt cleat and work on road bike shoes that have a 3-bolt hole pattern on the sole. Shimano, Look, Time, and a handful of smaller pedal manufacturers, use similar, but definitely not the same, cleats that are triangular in shape. These large cleats aim to maximize the shoe-cleat-pedal interface and contact area, which helps to distribute pedaling forces over a larger area with the goal of increasing efficiency, stability, and comfort. Road bike pedals, of course, are designed to work in unison with their specific cleats to match their dimensions and create the super important connection between your legs and the cranks.

Most road bike pedals are one-sided, meaning that the cleat can only engage on one side of the pedal. The other side of the pedal is typically smooth in a somewhat aerodynamic shape. Generally speaking, the front of the cleat engages first before pushing the rear of the cleat down onto the retention mechanism. The exception here is Wahoo Speedplay pedals that allow for dual-sided engagement.

Clipless mountain bike pedals differ from road bike pedals with their 2-bolt cleats. These cleats are smaller and mount to shoes that are designed with a 2-bolt interface. Most mountain bike pedals allow for dual-sided engagement, and they come in a wide variety of styles with different-sized platforms designed to meet the differing needs of varying riding styles and preferences. Given the smaller size of the cleat, the soles of the shoes often interface with the platform of the pedals for additional support.

Axles

Pedal axles, or “spindles”, connect the body of the pedal to the crank arm of the bike. The outboard end sits inside the pedal platform and is exposed between the body and the crank arm, eventually threading into the tip of the crankarm. Stiffness is important here, because of the way the axle is positioned – perpendicular to the direction that force is applied to the pedal body. More expensive pedals will feature stiffer Titanium axles, which benefit racers, who apply repeated doses of explosive power. For recreational riders, steel or chromoly axles are sufficiently stiff, incurring a slight weight penalty while saving enough money to make choosing them a no-brainer. 

Bearings

Axle bearings allow the pedal to rotate against the circular motion of the crank arm, keeping the rider’s foot stable and promoting a fluid pedal stroke. If these bearings wear out, the axle may wobble and may produce noise. Most pedal axles can be overhauled, but unless you are doing it yourself and using high-end pedals, the labor bill won’t be much less expensive than replacing the pedals altogether. So, high-quality bearings are something to look for in a pedal that you want to install and never think about ever again. Most pedals use stainless steel bearings, with some high-end options going with ceramic bearings. While they are significantly more expensive, ceramic bearings are claimed to be more durable, lighter weight, and lower friction, potentially providing a marginal performance gain that may appeal to racers or anyone seeking a competitive advantage.

Body Material

Along with every other bike part out there, pedal bodies have become more commonly made of carbon fiber in recent years. While carbon certainly isn’t a poor choice of material, its benefit is less obvious than parts that have more dynamic characteristics, such as frames and rims. Pedals are not an area of the bike where weight is of the utmost importance (although it is still certainly a consideration). Also, make sure that if you are choosing a pedal because it’s “light” you are looking at the weight of not only the pedals but the combined weight of the pedals and cleats. 

While carbon fiber is becoming the material of choice for high-end pedals, many models are made from other composites. Regardless of the material used in the pedal body’s construction, many also include small steel plates on the contact area where the cleat and pedal interface. This is generally done to add stiffness as well as durability over time.

Shoes

It’s important to use road bike pedals with the appropriate shoes. Much like road pedals, road bike shoes are designed to optimize pedaling efficiency and comfort on the bike. When paired together, they form the system that is the important connection between your legs and your drivetrain, transferring your pedaling power into forward momentum. Of course, road bike shoes come in a huge range of styles, constructions, materials, and price points with models made for everything from racing, sprinting, and endurance riding, to more casual, recreational riding. Finding a pair that fits well and suits your style is critical.

If you are buying both pedals and shoes, you want to make sure these items are compatible with each other. Nearly every road bike shoe (with the exception of those made specifically for use with Speedplay pedals) features a triangular set of three threaded holes in the forefoot of the outsole, meant to accept a 3-bolt road cleat. Each new pair of pedals comes with cleats that are made specifically to work with that pedal, and generally speaking, cleats are not cross-compatible between different brands. Speedplay cleats are an outlier as they are rectangular with a 4-bolt pattern and require an adapter to convert the 3-bolt pattern on most road shoes. This adapter is included with every pair of Speedplay pedals. Some brands offer Speedplay-specific shoes that feature a 4-bolt sole, and thus no adapter is required. 

There are some road bike shoes, typically on the lower end of the price spectrum, that are both 3-bolt and 2-bolt compatible, meaning they can work with both road bike pedals and clipless mountain bike pedals.

Adjustability

Most road bike pedals offer a few adjustments that allow the user to dial them in to their preferences. These typically include entry and release tension and float. Additionally, the cleats themselves can be adjusted on the sole of the shoe to get them in the perfect spot for comfort and efficiency. Before heading out for your first ride, we recommend that familiarize yourself with all of the adjustments that your pedals offer and set them up how you like.

Cleats

Having your cleats in the right location is important for the alignment of your leg for comfort and injury prevention, as well as to optimize the power of your pedal stroke. Most cleats offer a small range of fore-aft and side-to-side adjustability so the user can line them up in their preferred location underneath the ball of the foot. Often, the small metal inserts in the soles of the shoes can be moved slightly as well. Additionally, the angle of your cleats can also be adjusted slightly, toe-in or toe-out, if needed. Most quality road bike shoes have small alignment markings on the soles that can be helpful when dialing in your perfect cleat placement.

Retention

Most road bike pedals feature a tension adjustment that controls how easy it is to clip in and out of the pedal. The level of tension is typically a personal preference that may depend on the type of riding you do. Too much tension could lead to the dreaded situation where you’ve stopped the bike but are unable to get a foot out of the pedal and down to the ground. Conversely, riders who produce a lot of power will want to make sure there is sufficient tension to keep the foot in the pedal during explosive efforts. The majority of pedals have a small screw on the cleat retention mechanism that can be turned to tighten or loosen the tension to the desired setting. Look Keo Blade pedals are a little different in that they use carbon “blades” that can be swapped out to change the tension. Once again, Speedplay is an outlier in this regard as the tension is dictated by which cleat you use. They offer both “standard” and “easy” tension options.

Float

All pedals offer some way of adjusting the “float”, which is the degree of angular movement the pedal allows the cleat to make. Float is important because foot movement can prevent or cause problems, depending on how much of it happens, and for how long. Foot movement, or lack thereof, affects everything up the chain, from the knee to the hip, and even the lower back, and it can be a process of trial and error to find what works best for you. Like anything else, personal preferences vary and often depend on the type of riding you’re doing, racing vs. casual, or the desired feel from your pedals. Less float provides a more secure, locked-in feel that is typically preferred by high-performance riders and more intense power output (track races, criteriums). Having less float does leave a little less margin for error in cleat positioning, so the set up can be more challenging. Higher degrees of float are considered more forgiving, allowing more freedom of movement and generally less tension on the joints. Higher float is usually preferred by those with joint issues and anyone undertaking long, steady endurance rides or lengthy road races.

The float in most pedal systems is dictated by which specific cleat is used. Most manufacturers offer two or three cleats that allow float from zero to 8 degrees or thereabouts. Look, for example, offers their Keo cleats in 0, 4.5, or 9-degree float options, which are color-coded in black, grey, and red, respectively. Similarly, Shimano offers three different cleats with 0, 2, and 6-degree options denoted by the colors red, blue, and yellow, respectively. Time offers two cleat options, “free” cleats with 5 degrees of float, or “fixed” cleats with 0 degrees of float. Speedplay is unique in that the cleat itself is adjusted to dial in the float in very fine increments, and the float can be quickly tailored to each shoe.

Practice

If you are new to clipless pedals, doing a little practice to get used to the way they function is never a bad idea. While it eventually becomes second nature, clipping in and out of pedals can be relatively awkward at first, but thankfully, the learning curve is steep. Though it might seem silly, taking a little time in a controlled environment to familiarize yourself with the process of clipping in and out of your pedals could be invaluable and potentially help prevent embarrassment or injury (bruised body and/or ego) while out on a ride. Yes, it is as simple as deliberately twisting your foot to release the cleat from the pedal, but just about everyone has experienced an awkward, slow-motion fall when they couldn’t get their foot out of the pedal as they were learning. Trust us, a little practice is worth your time.

Value

As with all things in cycling, road bike pedals can be expensive. You can easily spend upwards of $300 for the lightest, stiffest, and fanciest pedals on the market, and many people will. Those seeking marginal performance gains or reductions in weight, typically high-performance riders and racers, will see the most benefit from spending more. If you’re not battling for podiums, however, you can spend less for nearly the same performance and with just a slight weight penalty. Take Shimano’s pedals, for example. The range-topping Dura-Ace model sells for $280 and delivers a top-of-the-line, well-refined performance at a light weight. Two tiers down, the Shimano 105 pedals look nearly identical, provide almost the same level of performance, and weigh only about 30 grams more for the pair while costing roughly half the price at $150. For this reason, we feel the Shimano 105 is one of the best values on the market. Those new to road cycling or who ride less frequently can spend even less for a model like the $69 Time XPresso 2, which is super user-friendly and gets the job done at a fraction of the price.

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A quick glance at the new saddle from Specialized would suggest that may be your ordinary road saddle. But look closer, and you’ll see the telltale pattern of a 3D-printed structure underneath the cover. That’s because the new Power Expert with Mirror uses the same 3D-printed tech (in spots) as the S-Works Power, Power Pro, and Romin EVO with Mirror models, but this one gets a cover.

While some have come to love the look of an airy 3D-printed saddle, others may find it a challenge to keep clean. For those riders who want the added comfort of the optimized 3D-printed matrix without the holes, the new Power Expert with Mirror saddle fits the bill. The 4-way stretch cover is designed to allow the saddle to conform to your body as the other models, only with extra protection on top.

That cover also helps hide the blend of 3D-printed matrix and traditional padding. The other saddles in the Mirror range are fully 3D-printed, but the Power Expert uses “3D-printed inserts” under the sit bones. Around those inserts is more typical PU foam, which is likely responsible for reducing the price tag.

The Power Expert with Mirror drops the price substantially for a Specialized 3D-printed saddle. Priced at $200, the Power Expert model is by far the most affordable while still being respectably light at 214g (143mm).

That weight is partially due to the hollow titanium rails, which are the only rail option here. There are four sizes offered with 130, 143, 155, and 168mm widths. At the back of the saddle, you’ll find SWAT-compatible mounts for accessories.

First Impressions

While I personally haven’t tried any of the Power with Mirror saddles, I am a big fan of the Power saddle shape overall. The standard S-Works Power saddle has become my favorite for my all-road bike, so what would I think of the Power Expert with Mirror?

At first ride, the saddle felt immediately comfortable. I’m sure a lot of that was familiarity with the shape, but the support and cushion around the sitbones was really nice. I also appreciate the grip-level of the cover. It’s not so tacky that you can’t easily move around on the saddle, but it also keeps your rear from sliding back on hard efforts.

I would like to compare it to the S-Works Power with Mirror saddle to see if there is a difference in comfort on the edges of the saddle nose. But the difference in comfort would have to be huge to make up for the $250 price difference. Overall, I’ve been very happy with the new saddle, and I think it will permanently replace the standard S-Works Power model I had on there previously.

specialized.com

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It’s not often that I find myself on a new version of a bike I just reviewed two years ago. But that’s exactly where I found myself with the Revel Ranger v2. After launching in 2020, I wrapped up my (extended) review in 2021. Now, here we are in 2023 with a new version of the Ranger. Naturally, I wanted to test it out.

I loved the original Ranger, but there were a few things that could be improved. If you care about having the latest drivetrain options, that included the need for a SRAM UDH. You can’t just add SRAM UDH compatibility to an existing rear triangle (for most bikes), so that sent Revel back to the drawing board to come up with a new frame member. Revel also revised shock mounting hardware and added a collet axle with larger bearings for the lower-rear suspension pivot. The result is an increase in stiffness you can really feel on the trail.

Sure, you can run the latest SRAM Transmissions on the new bike, but the real upgrade comes from the increased snap from the back end. The Ranger still has the ability to outrun its brakes when things get rowdy, but now it feels like the fast, short travel bike it should when you’re mashing the pedals. Ranger v2 is still just as capable when the trail points down, only now, it crushes the climbs as well.

That new swingarm also includes increased tire clearance (though still labeled as 29 x 2.6″), and a new mini-fender debris guard at the lower pivot. That mini-fender does a solid job of keeping bigger debris from getting stuck in the lower suspension links and is a welcomed addition. The tire clearance is also exceptional – most riders won’t ever use a 2.6″ tire on this bike, but you could. More importantly, that extra clearance really helps when things get muddy.

While Revel didn’t specify any changes to the front triangle, I’ve found that it’s even easier to run a full-size 26oz Specialized Purist bottle inside the front triangle with a side-load cage.

An Inauspicious Start

Based on my initial experience with the Revel, I thought this particular bike may be cursed. After the initial sample showed up with the wrong drivetrain, I swapped it for one that was fitted with SRAM X0 Transmission. Then, I found that the RockShox SID fork had issues out of the box. The fork wouldn’t compress properly as if it was hydro-locked, and the fastest way to get me riding was for Revel to send the only spare suspension kit they had – a Fox 34 Step-Cast fork and a matching Float DPS shock.

Suspension issues sorted, I set out for the trails and started dialing in the bike. Soon after, I started having issues with the SRAM Transmission. We’re still new to troubleshooting this drivetrain like anyone, and on a derailleur without most of the adjustments you’re used to, it can be tough to figure out what’s going on mid-ride.

My best guess is that the Full Mount Bolt on the derailleur wasn’t properly torqued from the assembly, and the derailleur was slowly slipping forward on the mount. By hand, the derailleur felt tight, but admittedly I didn’t bust out the torque wrench to verify that it was torqued to 35Nm before riding it (some bolts were originally printed with 25Nm, but 35Nm is the correct spec). Let that be a lesson to anyone with a new Transmission setup – even if you got it from a bike shop or direct from the manufacturer, make sure the bolt is properly greased and torqued before riding it.

As a result of the derailleur likely gradually slipping from the mount, the shifting slowly became erratic. What initially felt like something that could be fixed with the micro adjust feature turned into the derailleur starting to rub on the cassette when shifting to the biggest cogs. This all happened over the course of a long ride and by the time I had returned (early) to the trailhead, the damage had been done. I had tried to tighten the derailleur with the multi-tool I had on hand during the ride, but the mini 8mm Allen on the tool made it difficult to generate enough torque (keep that in mind if you have a Transmission derailleur, carry a big 8mm). On the trailside, it felt tight, but in reality, the bolt was probably under-torqued. I found out that it was also not greased during assembly, which could have added to the issue.

After discussing the issue with SRAM, they sent out a replacement chain, cassette, and derailleur stating that this is the same experience that they would offer to any customer that may have similar issues with a new drivetrain. SRAM has always had the best customer service in the industry, and it’s no different here.

After receiving the new parts and installing them by the book, I haven’t had a single issue since.

Well, there was one thing, but it’s hardly the fault of the drivetrain. Remember when I said I thought this bike may be cursed? On the first ride out on the new Transmission parts, a stealth ball of fishing line found its way into the derailleur before I made it 20 yards out of the parking lot. Before I even saw it, it was wrapped up in everything. I had to carry the bike back to the car, remove the derailleur pulleys, and use a knife to painstakingly cut out a massive amount of line (anglers – don’t litter parks with discarded fishing line, please).

Once I had the Transmission freed, it was like a veil had been lifted and the Ranger was flawless from that point on. I’m glad that I persisted as the Ranger V2 has delivered some of my best rides of the summer. On it, I’ve repeatedly bested some of my PRs on challenging trails, and while it’s just as happy on old-school XC tracks, I keep finding myself headed to more challenging and fun trails with the bike.

Components

At this point, it’s cliche to say that the bike can outride the travel numbers, but the Ranger absolutely can. It also may outride the brakes. That’s the case here with the SRAM Level Silver Stealth brakes included on the build. The Ranger gives you the confidence to tackle just about any terrain, but the brakes can feel a bit underwhelming at times. Something with increased stopping power would be very welcome here for more aggressive riders.

Other spec highlights include a 150mm travel CrankBrothers Highline 7 dropper post which continues to be smooth, easy to operate, and free of any excess play. The stock WTB Volt saddle was too squishy for my liking, but riders who prefer a softer ride may enjoy it. I also swapped out the Lizard Skins Charger Evo grips for my preferred Ergon GE1 grips. The stock SRAM X0 Eagle Transmission build includes a set of Industry Nine Trail S rims with I9 1/1 hubs – the Revel RW30 carbon rims with I9 Hydra hubs shown here are a $1,200 option. A very tempting option, as the wheels yield a great ride quality and seem to be quite durable.

A 40mm Raceface Aeffect R stem and 780mm bar with a 35mm clamp diameter felt right at home on the Ranger.

It’s been wetter with softer trails this time around, and I’ve had a much better experience with the Maxxis Dissector front tire. The Rekon is a solid rear tire, proving grip in most circumstances, and both tires are 29 x 2.4″ with EXO casing.

Actual Weight

In terms of the actual weight, the Ranger V2 weighs 27.51 lbs with 2oz of sealant in each tire. That seems respectable for the category, though this bike is running the upgraded Revel RW30 carbon wheels.

On Bike Storage?

We’re getting to the point where even some road and gravel bikes have built-in storage compartments, so it’s not out of the question to expect it here. While the Ranger doesn’t have any internal storage cubbies, there is an extra set of braze-ons above the main bottle cage mount which could be useful to stash tools and/or gear.

I ended up using the space for a Wolf Tooth B-RAD roll-top bag with the velcro strap mounting method. For me, this is one of the easiest ways to transfer my kit from bike to bike, and the strap keeps it nice and tight during the ride without rubbing on my knees.

Suspension Performance

Like the other Revel bikes that I’ve ridden, the Ranger V2 makes great use of the Canfield Balance Formula suspension system. Even on a lightweight bike like the Ranger, CBF provides a very efficient ride with a suspension curve that feels nearly bottomless when it gets rough. On most of my rides, I kept the Fox DPS shock in the fully open #1 position. Every now and then I would run it in trail mode #1, while the firm setting was only used when riding on pavement.

Ranger V2 Details

• 115mm rear travel
• 120mm front travel
• 29″ wheels
• Thermoset carbon fiber frame
• Canfield Balance Formula suspension system
• Price as tested: $7,999 + $1,200 for the RW30 Carbon I9 Hydra wheel set ($9,199 total)

Geometry

Perhaps more than any other bike category, “downcountry” bikes are still a bit of the Wild West when it comes to geometry. That could be a good thing depending on where you live and how you like to ride. Compared to something like the Santa Cruz Tallboy, the Ranger V2 is somewhat conservative with a head tube angle that’s 2º steeper, and a seat tube angle that’s more than 1º slacker.

There were times that I felt the bike could use a 1 or 2º slacker head tube angle, but I think many riders will find the Ranger’s geometry comforting – especially those who think modern bikes might be getting a little too slack up front. The current geometry makes it a great option for modern trails without losing its edge on old-school singletrack.

At 5′ 8″, I was right at home on the medium frame, which also has an average reach number for the category at 453mm.

Pros & Cons

Pros

Riding Home

The Revel Ranger v1 had already set a pretty high bar. It was a fun bike that had the ability to keep up with many other bikes and riders in varied terrain. The Ranger v2 is that as well, but it received the perfect upgrades to make it even more of a contender. Ranger v2 is just as capable as ever, but it’s faster and feels more laser-focused whether carving lines through singletrack or hunting down a technical KOM. Now with the ability to run SRAM Transmission, regardless of the drivetrain you choose, the Ranger is ready.

For more tech details on the Ranger V2, check out our first post here.

The post Revel Ranger v2 Review: The Right Updates at the Right Time appeared first on Bikerumor.

When you’re bombing down a rough, technical descent, keeping your handlebars pointed where you want them can wear down your arms quickly. Enter the KIS (Keep It Stable) steering stabilizer.

Created by Jo Klieber, the founder of Syntace and Liteville, the KIS system helps automatically re-center your handlebars as your wheel deflects off rocks and roots, especially when they’re off-camber. Since Canyon helped work on the integration of the KIS system, they’ll be the only brand (aside from Liteville) to offer it on their bikes until next year. Canyon debuted the system on their Spectral all-mountain bike, but they now have it on a demo fleet of Strive:ON eMTBs too.

Last fall, our EU Tech Editor Cory Benson got the chance to ride both Canyon’s Spectral MTB and Liteville’s 301CE eMTB with the KIS steering stabilizer, so you can check out his initial impressions of the system. Since Canyon was at Crankworx Whistler, I took the chance to get a feel for the steering stabilizer myself. After one ride my perspective on the idea went from “If no one has done it yet, is it worth doing?” to “This is something that could catch on”.

KIS System – The Basics:

If you’re not familiar with the KIS system, check out Cory’s article covering all the technical details here. To sum it up, it’s basically made of a sliding tension adjuster, two springs, two straps, and a cam that clamps onto the fork’s steerer tube. In finished form, all of this is hidden inside the bike’s top tube except for the small slider that sits on top. The entire system does add weight to a bike, but nothing crazy at about 120g.

The system shown on the demo bike I rode is not the finished product consumers get: The demo bikes were all set up with an external version of the KIS system that allows test riders to see how it works, and make easy adjustments without the Allen key the integrated version requires. I should also note the external system I rode looked a bit different from the one Cory tried on the Liteville (which uses lighter springs than Canyon’s KIS bikes).

Ride Impressions: Climbing

While my intro line suggests the KIS system is mainly beneficial on descents, it does help on climbs too. When I first hopped on the bike, the system’s tension was set in the middle position and I barely noticed any effect from it. I didn’t feel any extra effort while steering the bike, and overall handling seemed pretty normal. Then, at Canyon’s MTB Gravity Brand Manager (and my ride guide) Jack Noy’s suggestion, I completely de-tensioned the steering. Right away I could tell the KIS system was indeed helping me out.

We started our climb on a steep road filled with loose rocks, and when I removed all tension from the KIS system I immediately noticed my front wheel squirming left and right more than it did with the system engaged. Those loose, rolling rocks were pulling my front wheel left and right, and my arms had to work to keep the wheel pointed straight.

Once I put the tension back to the middle position, it was obvious again that it was helping. The front wheel floated nicely over those loose rocks and clearly wanted to stay straight, even when I purposely kept my hands light on the grips. We only did one shorter ride, but I’m convinced on longer loops this system would reduce arm fatigue. It definitely requires less effort to keep your wheel straight, and with the KIS system, it becomes easier to sit upright and give your arms a break as the bike will resist wheel flop. Overall it takes less energy to keep the bike pointed, yet the system works subtly enough that I didn’t feel like I had to change the way I was riding at all.

Descending:

When we pointed the bikes downhill, I kept the KIS system in the middle position to start. The trail we rode was a perfect test for the system, as it is littered with rocks and off-camber roots from start to finish. In the middle tension position, I noticed some very slight resistance in the steering, but not enough to require extra effort. I could feel how my front wheel was lightly resisting deflections, but again the effect was subtle enough that I was handling the bike normally. 

In an effort to make the system’s effects obvious, I bumped up the tension by two notches. At this point, I could really feel the difference it was making. This setting produced noticeable steering resistance (although still a long way from making it hard to steer), and I did detect something Jack mentioned about cornering: If the system is set up too tight, it slows down your steering slightly and the bike doesn’t lean in as nicely as a normal bike would. I felt this on one corner, so I dialed the system back one notch.

With the KIS system, it is important to find the level of tension that works best for you. I expect most riders should be able to accomplish this, as I (at 150lbs) wasn’t even close to maxing out the tension. I’d expect the range of adjustment would be ample for much larger or stronger riders than me.

The setting I was now in seemed perfect for me – I could feel the wheel fighting to stay straight over rocks and roots, and it was easier than usual to hold a line through the rough. It took no noticeable extra effort to steer, and the cornering felt normal. On the descent, it occurred to me that like the climb, this system makes it a bit easier to take a break when needed. On moderate sections of trail, you could get away with sitting up and lightening your grip more than a normal bike would allow. This could be great for enduro racers tackling several long descents in a row.

One thing the KIS System was designed not to do is make it feel harder to steer the more you turn the handlebars. I’d say Syntace achieved this, as I didn’t feel a difference between tight corners or wider berms. The KIS system was also designed not to straighten the wheel with any obvious clunk or engagement in the middle, and I would agree I did not notice any such effect.

One thing Cory mentioned is how the auto-centering steering gave the Canyon Spectral an odd tendency when jumping. The trail I rode was a technical descent that didn’t offer much airtime, so I can’t comment on the bike’s handling in the air… give Cory’s article a read for his explanation of how the KIS system attempts to straighten the bike out if you turn your handlebars in mid-air. 

My only final thought is this; I wonder if a two-position KIS system would be beneficial. I was quite happy climbing with the tension set dead in the middle, but when I got to our highly technical descent I preferred a bit more tension to help fight off wheel deflection. I liked how subtle the effects were on the uphill section, but also enjoyed feeling that something was definitely happening on the downhill. The bottom line is I do think Syntace and Canyon are on to something, and wouldn’t be surprised to see the idea gain traction in the MTB world.

canyon.com

The post Can the KIS Steering Stabilizer Keep Canyon’s Strive:ON eMTB Steady on Whistler’s Trails? appeared first on Bikerumor.

The new CADEX Amp saddle inherits core features from the acclaimed Boost saddle (reviewed here) but aims at a wider audience. From a quick look, the new CADEX Amp shares a similar shape to many popular short-nosed saddles. But a closer look reveals that the Amp saddle also boasts all the tech of the Boost… including the same carbon base, integrated rails, and particle flow padding.

So does the new CADEX Amp outshine the Boost?

CADEX Amp saddle creation

The CADEX Boost saddle is one of the most comfortable saddles we’ve ridden. The shape, however, might only fit some, and it can take some time to get the correct angle. Saddles are very personal. Lastly — the Boost is more of an aero-focused saddle, and a comfortable fit is dependent on where your sit bones hit its limited padding.

Taking that feedback (which is pretty universal), CADEX developed another new design with a broader appeal and still offers support to a rider with a low, aero position on the bike — landing on this new Amp.

What is it the Amp?

The CADEX Amp features all the good that came with the Boost while giving a slightly more stable perch for pedaling. The shape will be familiar to most riders, with a very open ergonomic rear curve that CADEX says “helps increase ischial support.” The new shape gives more room for large thighs and the upswept rear helps the planted pedaling feel.

What kind of rider is the CADEX Amp for?

The CADEX Amp is a high-performance race saddle that should fit the general cycling public and more varied cycling disciplines, slightly better than the narrow-focus Boost. The shape looks familiar but has some slight tweaks on the short-nose, wide-wing design (more on that later).

Now, the lightest CADEX saddle

The Amp knocks the Boost out of the top (and only other) spot for the lightest CADEX saddle. The CADEX Boost is already respectably light at 138g, but the Amp rolls in at just 129g — very impressive considering the more versatile comfort.

That low weight is helped by the full carbon base. It’s the same CADEX Advanced Forged Composite (AFC) tech with carbon rails that the designers used for the Boost. This AFC composite helps the Amp hit a superlight weight and provide some compliance.

The carbon rails’ attachments (similar to the Boost) are positioned at the edges of the saddle shell, well away from the main contact points with a rider’s sit bones. This unique rail position allows the saddle to better dampen road vibrations and alleviates pressure points, something very noticeable when riding.

Why a different shape?

The short nose shape allows many riders to enter the CADEX brand and gives Boost riders a more “universal” saddle setup. Not to say that the Boost isn’t an off-road saddle, but the Amp’s shape is far better suited to off-road fit and positioning.

The short nose shape also pushes the rider back into the saddle to achieve a powerful, yet still aerodynamic riding position.

Shape-wise, the CADEX Amp has very sculpted wings compared to others with similar shapes. The top of the saddle has a crowned shape that drops away at the wings, and the full-carbon, low-seated base eliminates flex, helping to enable pedaling power.

Technical Specs — CADEX Amp Saddle

• Weight: 129g
• Length: 245mm
• Width: 145mm
• Stack Height: 44mm
• Rail material: 7x9mm Oval Carbon
• Shell: Advanced Forged Composite Technology
• Padding: Lightweight Reactive Foam with Integrated Particle Flow
• Price: $315

Cadex AMP Riding Impressions

Saddles are something that, admittedly, I don’t really like reviewing. Fit is a personal preference, and it can be hard to describe something that might not work for a particular rider. I’m a creature of habit, and I’ve used the same model of Specialized Power (143mm) for the last couple of years — on and off-road.

However, I took the chance to check out the CADEX Amp because my impressions of the CADEX Boost were already great. I still ride the Boost on my road bike, but it has never made it off-road successfully.

A Shape That You Can Trust

The shape of the CADEX Amp is inviting, it’s familiar, and the look of the saddle is pure class. You can see some of the attention to detail at a quick glance, but when you pick the saddle up, you really appreciate the craftsmanship.

The base of the saddle is raw carbon, almost unfinished looking. The shiny carbon against the matte black padding appeals to me; it looks like a racing prototype you’d see in the pits at a World Cup. The padding is slim but generous and contains much more on the nose of the saddle than the Boost. Then, the padding gets more dense and voluminous as you fade to the rear of the saddle.

CADEX Amp Set-up

Positioning-wise, I set the Amp up similarly to the S-Works Power Mirror it replaced. The length is similar to the Power Mirror, but the thigh glide area is longer on the Amp. Tilt-wise, the Amp was a little tough to dial in, but worth it. I found the nose is lower “feeling” because of the higher rise on the wings. I positioned our demo model at -2° out of the gate and moved from there.

The Amp feels much more like a “regular saddle” on the bike than the Boost. Where the Boost felt like something completely new, the Amp feels like a better version of something you already know. It didn’t take much time at all for me to get used to the Amp’s new fit. The tall wings in the rear can be slightly weird initially, but I adjusted after just one ride.

I mounted the Amp on my Canyon Inflite for do-it-all riding and to prep for ‘cross-season. #crossiscoming. Mounting the Amp on my cyclocross bike allowed me to experience it both on- and off-road. After several trainer sessions, I hit the road, content with over-analyzing my positioning.

The nose is a neutral width, not small but enough that your legs are slotted, similar to the PRO Stealth but slimmer. The wide thigh glide area helps maintain this sensation. I ended up moving the Amp forward 3mm from my regular positioning and was satisfied. The slightly longer thigh area and slow taper to the wings make it feel like a longer saddle.

Off-road riding on the CADEX Amp is a pleasure, though thoughts of snapping a carbon rail were always in the back of my mind. But, after a few hard days and bad lines, I felt safe — though the replacement price is possibly high enough to keep this saddle firmly on the tarmac for the nervous among us.

For the few cyclocross sessions the Amp saw, I can say the tall wings in the rear might not be the best for a clean re-mount. But, as mentioned before, I’m coming from a slightly flatter saddle, so I might simply need to adjust my technique.

CADEX Amp Saddle — Final Impressions

After miles on the CADEX Amp, I confidently say it is as good as the CADEX Boost.

Is it better?

It is a better all-around saddle when compared directly to the Boost. The general short nose shape fits my body well, and I’m accustomed to its fit and positioning. Given a choice between the two, I will now choose the Amp — based solely on the fact that it is closer in shape to other saddles I regularly ride.

Yes — it’s $315… expensive. But like the Boost, it’s a premium product with a price tag to match. Hopefully, CADEX will bring out a line of saddles that reflect the Amp and Boost shape with a more affordable ask. If the price is your holdback… note: like the CADEX wheels, bars, and other offerings, the Amp and Boost saddles come with the CADEX Composite Confidence. If you crash, damage, or whatever in the first 2-year of riding the product, CADEX will replace or repair it.

CADEX Amp — Conclusion

If you’re a performance-focused rider looking for a new saddle that will offer max comfort and dampened road feel — the Amp is your choice. The color (matte black) will match all bikes. And the 129g weight is almost assuredly lighter than what’s currently on your ride. We look forward to more rides on the Amp — look for a long-term review follow-up early this fall.

The CADEX Amp saddle is available now, at retailers and online in select markets worldwide.

Cadex-cycling.com/Amp

The post 129g CADEX Amp Saddle Offers Maximum Comfort with Minimal Weight appeared first on Bikerumor.

Canyon is gearing up for more technical trail riding with some all-new premium alloy MTB Flat Pedals that deliver stellar grip on the bike without breaking the bank. Developed together with their sponsored pro freeride and gravity mountain bike & eMTB riders, the new aluminum flat pedals are built tough, with lots of traction pins, plus two big platform sizes to deliver the best contact between shoes and pedals.

Plus, more affordable platform pedals are on their way, too…

Canyon alloy MTB Performance Flat Pedals

When mountain bike riders go big, they want a set of solid grippy platform pedals they can rely on, and that’s exactly what Canyon has delivered with their new aluminum MTB Performance Flat Pedals. Designed to be strong, grippy & affordable, Canyon’s first flat pedals are a solid debut – offering a secure platform to keep rider and bike connected.

Riding Review

The alloy Canyon flat pedals have severed me well since I started riding them early this spring. They’ve offered me all the grip I could want while riding in reinforced Leatt gravity flat shoes & wet weather boots, lightweight Northwave x Michelin trail shoes, and even some silly slippy riding in Vibram-soled Chaco sandals.

Reasonable price, reasonable weight, and a generous 200kg rider+bike weight limit thanks to heavy-duty axles.

Ten pins per side dig deep into most soft rubber soles. There’s plenty of support from a big platform area. They are still spinning smoothly after 3 months of riding, and have fully user-serviceable axle, bushings & bearings.

What more can be said about a good flat pedal?

Tech details

Canyon says their goal was to “make the best pedals on the trail” and they did so with “one of the largest surface areas you’ll find in any MTB pedal”. Two sizes are available.

My Large pedals weigh in at a real 436g for the pair (430g claimed), optimized for size 43-48 shoes. They get a 110mm wide platform that is 109mm long front-to-back – while the overall pedal is actually 117mm long when you factor in the forward sloping edge that helps glide up over obstacles.

The Small pedals are designed for 36-42 sized shoes, with a 380g weight claim. They are less than a centimeter narrower at an even 100mm wide, but a centimeter and a half shorter at 95mm long.

Both sizes of pedals are ever-so-slightly concave – 17mm thick over the outside of the axles, 16mm in the center over the axle, and 18mm thick at their leading edge. But they feel a bit more concave than that with sharp 4mm tall pins front & back and shorter 3mm grub screw pins closer to the axle – 10 thread-in replaceable pins per side, per pedal. The idea is to let your foot sink into the middle for a planted feel without having to be ultra-thin sacrificing on toughness.

They spin on strong 15CrMo axles, with sealed DU bushings on the inside and tiny sealed bearings on the outside. Canyon assures that they will sell service/rebuild kits, replacement pins, and longer pin kits so you will get long life out of your pedals.

Review thoughts on pedal platform size

I’ve been riding the Large pedals (which are only in stock now in Silver) for four months, and never really questioned if I should have sized down – I’m a size 43, the low end of Canyon’s recommend range.

But for comparison, my Leatt MTB 3.0 Flat Pro shoes measure 111mm wide, my new Northwave Tailwhip Eco Evo shoes are just 105mm wide, and those old Chaco Chong sandals top out at 118mm wide. With a 110mm wide platform for the Large, the rear middle pins are 94mm apart.

That’s essentially how wide the Northwave shoes are midway back toward the instep where the pedal sits. So when I shift my foot just slightly while riding, I end up missing out on engaging 2 of 10 pins. I never really noticed a lack of traction – I tend to ride the more supportive Leatt shoes for more aggressive gravity & eMTB rides – but with the narrower shoes, I would probably get even more secure grip from the Small size pedals.

Based on Canyon’s weight claims, you’ll likely save around 50g with the small pedals over the ones I’ve been riding.

Canyon MTB Flat Pedals – Pricing, availability & options

Canyon’s MTB Performance Flat Pedals sell for 100€ in either Small or Large sizes, rated for gravity mountain bike riding with a 200kg weight limit making them also suitable for eMTB riding, as well. Both sizes come in either Silver or Black anodized finishes.

The Large black pedals will apparently not be available until October.

Coming soon, more pedals. Canyon also teases that 2 new reinforced nylon composite flat pedals are in the works for later in 2023, too. One will be an analog of this one with the same axle tech for lower-cost platform mountain bike riding, and the other with be an urban flat pedal with a grit-based grippy surface for city commuter bike riding.

Canyon.com

The post All-new Canyon MTB Flat Pedals, Serious Grip on 2 Platform Sizes: Ridden & Reviewed appeared first on Bikerumor.

SRAM has improved the affordability of the all-new Transmission, bringing the price of entry down to $1,099 USD with the launch of the GX T-Type Eagle. And, so far, it’s excellent. We are pleased to report the vast majority of technology debuted on the $2,199 XX SL, $2,049 XX, and $1,599 XO models earlier this year, does trickle down to the less expensive GX T-Type announced today.

Like those lighter, pricier options, the GX T-Type derailleur mounts directly to the hanger-less interface of all* frames that have a SRAM UDH dropout. This so-called Full Mount design mounts the derailleur to the axle, ensuring spacing is always spot-on, regardless of variations that may exist between manufacturers’ frames and dropouts. Because of that mounting style, SRAM has been able to create a derailleur that has no need for upper and lower limit screws, or even a B-screw for dialing in chain gap.

Tyler has previously covered the SRAM Transmission in great detail – we direct you to that piece for a deep dive on exactly how it all works, and why they overhauled the mountain bike drivetrain in the first place.

Here, we have a detailed account of how the new GX Eagle T-Type differs to the higher-end offerings, with the actual weights of all components. We look forward to providing a long-term review on the components, but for now, here are some comments on how the Transmission has performed on our first few rides.

SRAM GX Eagle T-Type | An Overview

The benefits of Transmission over traditional drivetrains, both electronic and mechanical, are also relevant to the SRAM GX Eagle T-Type announced today. Along with the incredible ease of setup, with the aforementioned elimination of adjustment screws, it is claimed that the GX Transmission is every bit as crisp and precise as the other derailleurs in the Transmission family and that it:

• Performs shifts under high load
• Performs shifts quietly
• Tolerates side-on and frontal impacts, within reason

We are in the midst of testing these claims and have some experience to share from our first few rides below.

An important benefit of the GX T-Type derailleur is its serviceability. If, in the sad scenario your derailleur doesn’t tolerate the unintended abuse you send its way – during riding, crashing, transit, or otherwise – it is entirely possible that you won’t need to replace the whole thing. The two-piece outer link of the parallelogram, battery fastener, and pulley cage assembly with clutch are all replaceable – the latter in a super easy tool-free fashion. It simply twists off, so assuming the threads aren’t damaged during the offending incident, you can just screw on a new ($129 USD) cage.

Even at the reduced price of $400 USD (the next most affordable one costs $550), that’s going to be a relief when you find your precious derailleur has been somewhat disassembled by a trailside object.

How is GX T-Type different from XO, XX, and XX SL T-Type?

As you move up the tiers of a given manufacturer’s drivetrain, the constituent components switch to lighter offerings, often with more features packed in that either improve performance or make the component more durable. The SRAM Transmission offerings are no different.

As such, the GX Eagle T-Type Transmission gets slightly heavier components, with the cranks and derailleur home to a distinct grey-ish Dark Polar finish that immediately sets them apart as belonging to this more affordable groupset. The good news is, if you’re buying a complete bike with the GX Eagle T-Type, some of its parts can be upgraded to the XO, XX, or even XX SL equivalents. Let’s dive into how each and every component of the GX T-Type Transmission differs from its higher-end counterpart. Starting with…

The SRAM GX Eagle T-Type Derailleur

At 492g (with battery) the GX T-Type derailleur is the heaviest of the lot, but not by much. It is just 18 grams heavier than the XO T-Type, and 48 grams heavier than the XX SL T-Type (we don’t have a weight for XX). The steel inner cage is largely responsible for that, with the higher-end cages made from lighter-weight aluminum.

Functionally, it is almost entirely equivalent to both, and it mounts to the hanger-less interface of the frame dropout in the very same way, requiring no post-install adjustments. However, we are told this one has a reconfigured gearbox. Just how it has been reconfigured, and why, we are waiting to learn more. It also houses the battery in a less vulnerable position, as compared to the battery location on the higher-end options.

Sadly, the Magic Pulley Wheel seen on the XX SL and XX T-Type Derailleurs is not present on the GX option. The lower pulley on the aforementioned is constructed of two parts that have the capacity to rotate independently to one another in the event that a stick gets stuck in the cage. That independent movement means that the chain can continue running through the derailleur regardless. On the GX T-Type, such an unfortunate event would cause the pulley, and the entire drivetrain, to grind to a halt.

*Earlier we said that the T-Type derailleurs can mount to any frame that runs a UDH dropout. There is only one exception that we are aware of; while the Hope HB916 does run a SRAM UDH, it is not compatible with T-Type derailleurs.

SRAM GX T-Type Crankset

Each group gets its own crankset, too. On our Park Tool scale, the 165mm GX T-Type crankset with DUB Wide spindle, 32T T-Type Chainring with two bash guards installed, weighed in at 733 grams. I don’t have a direct comparison with the other cranksets in the Transmission family but, for context, the 175mm version of the higher-end XO T-Type weighs 748 grams.

The crank arms themselves are made from a forged aluminum, and they lack the eye-catching cut-out portion seen on the XO offering. Meanwhile, the much lighter XX and XX SL T-Type cranks are of course made from carbon fiber.

Importantly, the GX crank is not available with a DUB-PWR spindle-based power meter but can be upgraded with a spider-based power meter. And, for anyone wanting to run Flight Attendant, the GX crank can accept the pedal sensor necessary for the system to function.

SRAM offers the GX T-Type cranks in 165mm, 170mm, and 175mm lengths, with 30T, 32T, and 34T chainring options. All the chainrings have a 3mm offset, producing a 55mm chainline which is said to deliver a more moderate chain angle with more precise shifting in a longer-lasting package (as compared to the 52mm chainline which has been the standard on Boost spacing frames for quite some time). That brings us to…

The GX Eagle Transmission Cassette

The 10-52T GX Eagle T-Type cassette weighs in at 447 grams; that’s 65 grams heavier than the XX equivalent, and 66 grams heavier than the XO equivalent. They each share a 10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-38-44-52T cog stack with the long-standing X-SYNC tooth profiles, but they differ in their construction and materials.

The aforementioned higher-end options get a machined steel X-DOME design for the cluster, with stamped steel 38T and
44T cogs pinned to the lighter-weight aluminum 12th gear. Meanwhile, the GX T-Type cassette sees a Pindome design for gears 1-8, and a single-piece Mini-Cluster for gears 9-12. All are made from hardened steel, hence the additional weight and all get Nickel-plating which is said to make for a quieter and more durable cassette.

The Flat-Top GX Eagle T-Type Chain

Shipped with 126 links, the GX Eagle T-Type Flat-Top Chain weighs in at 283 grams; that’s just a single gram heavier than the electroless nickel-plated, PVD-coated chain of the XO Transmission group, which is said to have “unbelievable resistance to corrosion and wear”. The GX option doesn’t get the aggressive anti-corrosion PVD coating, but its links are nickel-coated to reduce premature wear.

While the GX and XO chains get solid pins, the XX gets hollow pins that reduce weight by just 9 grams. Meanwhile, the XX SL chain goes one better with hollow pins and cut-outs in the outer plates, bringing the weight down to just 264 grams. They also both see a hard chrome finish for even more durability.

What about the Transmission Shifter?

For SRAM Transmission, there are two AXS Pod Controllers for shifting. The GX T-Type comes with the Standard Pod Controller that has non-customizable concave buttons. Meanwhile, the Ultimate Pod Controller comes with concave buttons installed, but these can be popped out and replaced with convex buttons, dependent on rider preference. On both variations, you can change which button performs a down-shift and which performs an up-shift by customizing in the AXS App.

On our Park Tool scale, the Ultimate Pod Shifter weighed in at 70 grams with its non-rechargeable CR 2032 battery and the MMX clamp (+ bolt) for pairing with SRAM brakes.

SRAM GX Eagle Transmission | Install & First Ride

I fitted the SRAM GX Eagle Transmission to a YT Capra MX, which is a UDH-compatible frame. That’s the only requirement for compatibility – the only exception being the Hope HB 916 which has UDH rear-end but is not compatible with T-Type derailleurs.

I digress. Following the below video from SRAM, installation of the T-Type derailleur went swimmingly. Inputting info on your frame model, frame size, flip-chip position, and chainring size into the AXS App (or this calculator), gets you the specific chain length required, and the specific setup cog, and it tells you to use either the A or B position for the setup key on the derailleur.

SRAM has done a great job on communication around T-Type installation, so go ahead and follow the instructions to the letter. They say it in the video, but I’m going to say it again here: care should be taken to tighten, loosen, and re-tighten the derailleur and axle in the order instructed in the video.

As you’ll see, the rear axle is the final component to be tightened to the manufacturer’s torque. Prior to this, you’ll have bolted the T-Type derailleur’s full mount portion to the dropout, ensuring that the line on the knurled ring (silver) lines up with the line on the inboard arm of the full mount.

And, you’ll have tightened it to the 35 Nm specified. SRAM tell us that some of their first production models include a mounting bolt marked with a 25 Nm torque specification – this is not correct. Go ahead and torque it to 35 Nm – SRAM says it helps the Transmission have a lower probability of losing chain tension.

Like the 12-speed GX AXS group this GX T-Type replaced (on the YT Capra Core 3), there is scope for micro-adjustments after installation, allowing you to move the derailleur inboard or outboard at 0.2mm increments. Our newly-installed Transmission does shift a little roughly in the stand, and one might be tempted to fine-tune the derailleur position at this stage. Hold off doing so. Under sag, the chain gap between the upper pulley and cassette increases, reducing noise.

By the way, whenever you do remove the rear wheel for whatever reason, you might notice some lateral play in the derailleur at the point where the full mount hangs off the dropout. This was the case on our setup with the YT. Chris Mandell of SRAM reassures us this is to be expected, as the derailleur is actually mounted on the rear axle. So, without it, it sort of just hangs there, and it is possible to rotate it backward (clockwise) even when the bolt is torqued to 35 Nm.

GX T-Type Riding Impressions

Shifting while riding was perfect right off the bat, and there was no need to make use of the micro-adjustment feature. It’s not silent, but it is very quiet most of the time. Pedaling up technical climbs, I did not need to back off in order to shift. The derailleur transfers the chain onto its neighboring cog with no hesitation, regardless of how much load I was able to apply to the chain.

The only scenario in which I am able to force a big clanging noise is when shifting shortly after pedaling off from stopped, up a hill, with the chain in one of the smaller descending sprockets. That said, the derailleur still performs the shift, it just doesn’t sound too healthy while it does it.

I really like the tactility of the Pod Controller buttons for shifting. While there’s no real “throw” as such, the buttons of the Pod Controller compress a little further than the buttons of the GX AXS Rocker that gave way to it. More force is required, delivering way more positive feedback through your thumb to reassure you that the command has been sent.

The adjustability of the Pod Controller is very good; while there is some left-right adjustment available at the bar clamp, you can also adjust the rotation of the Pod itself to give you the best angle for your hand position. I would say, though, I do find the buttons are a little bit too close together, and I haven’t yet developed the muscle memory of where each one is. I’m sure it will come in time, but it hasn’t been super easy to just smash down on the correct button in the heat of a fast descent.

On the Ultimate Pod Controller shown here, you can pop out these concave buttons for convex ones, which could go a long way to helping the rider know which button they are pressing. If I had the convex buttons to hand, I’d probably switch out the lower one for a convex one to further help differentiate them on the trail.

There is another option here if you are running a second Pod Controller on the left to operate Flight Attendant suspension or an AXS Reverb dropper. You can program it such that one of the buttons shifts the derailleur. For example, you can configure it so that the top button actuates your dropper seat post, while the bottom button shifts the derailleur to a larger cog. Certainly, it makes sense to have control over both of those functions on the same side of the bar, especially when you hit a surprise incline mid-stage of an enduro race.

So far, i’ve had only three short rides over which to test the GX T-Type, and so far it has been flawless. It is much quieter while descending than the GX AXS derailleur it replaced, indicative of a more efficient, well-damped clutch mechanism controlling cage movement.

I am pleased to report zero dropped chains, and still, I see no need to make any of those micro-adjustments. The derailleur’s position hasn’t moved at all; chain tension seems unchanged and the marker on the knurled ring still lines up with its corresponding marker on the inboard arm of the full mount.

I don’t believe I have smashed the derailleur into any trail-side objects yet, but plenty of opportunity lies ahead. I look forward to bringing you a long-term review of the GX Eagle T-Type.

Can you Combine SRAM GX T-Type Derailleur & Cassette with a Road Crankset?

The gravel contingent may well be wondering if they can mullet the GX T-Type with a Road Crankset. The answer is, yes! So long as your gravel bike runs a UDH dropout, providing that all-important hanger-less interface.

SRAM 1x AXS Road chainrings are compatible with T-Type chains. For the best chainline, you must use the wide version of the Road 12-speed crankset and DUB bottom bracket.

Pricing & Availability (+ Replacement Parts)

The complete SRAM GX Transmission, with 165mm, 170mm, or 175mm cranks, has an MSRP of $1,099 / 1,300 € /£1,180. That is $500 cheaper than the XO T-Type, $950 cheaper than the XX, and $1,100 cheaper than the top-of-the-range XX SL.

Pricing for the individual components can be seen in the image below. The cost of replacement parts is as follows:

• Battery fastener – $15 USD /16 € / £15
• GX T-Type cage assembly, including pulley wheels, cage, and clutch – $129 USD / 139 € / £125
• Full Mount Bolt, including frame bushing, knurled ring, and derailleur mounting bolt – $63 USD / 70 € / £62 GBP
• Outer parallelogram/skid plate assembly, including new mounting hardware – $22 USD / 24 € / £21 GBP

sram.com

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I first saw FUNN’s products when I worked in a bike shop in the early 2000s, and with slick new products like the second-generation Python pedals, it’s clear the brand has progressed with the sport. The updated Python pedals are competitively lightweight and boast a sleek design.

The new Python pedals offer a healthy amount of grip in stock form, and FUNN sells optional longer pins for those who want more. To sum it up, I’d say the Python pedals are (in the best way) everything they need to be and nothing more.

FUNN Python Pedals – Construction:

The new Python pedals feature a 6061-T6 aluminum body which is forged, then trimmed down on a CNC machine. At 100x110x10.5mm, FUNN has provided a good-sized platform that should feel plenty supportive to anyone without huge feet, while keeping things pretty trim and lightweight.

The Pythons’ thin bodies help minimize pedal strikes, and FUNN has even machined down the outer ends of the pedals to a slimmer profile than the rest of the body.

FUNN says the Python pedals’ optimized profile maximizes pedal-to-shoe contact and pedaling efficiency. At first glance, they seem pretty flat, but there is a very slight concave to the Python pedal bodies. The front and rear ends are a tad thicker than the midsection of the pedal, so the middle pins sit slightly lower. Also, there is a tiny hump over the spindle (which looks bigger in the above photo than it really is) but I never felt it at all while riding. Those who enjoy a more concave pedal can always use the longer pins to achieve this… as I did. More on that below…

Funn specs the Pythons with a full set of short pins, but they offer an optional set of longer pins that are compatible with FUNN’s Python, Funndamental, Mamba, Mamba S, and Ripper pedals. The long pins are longer and thinner, and they definitely add more grip to the pedal vs. the short pins. Instead of a full-length spindle, the Python pedals utilize a stubby cartridge axle system for easy maintenance.

I was impressed to see the Pythons weighed in at 373g for the pair, just beating FUNN’s claim of 375g.

Ride Impressions:

As soon as I started riding the Pythons, I was impressed with how supportive the pedal bodies felt. These pedals don’t look huge, yet no matter where I put weight on my foot it always felt like there was plenty of pedal underneath. I think FUNN hit on a great shape that reaches out to all corners while still looking sleek.

The Pythons’ bodies are almost flat, and with the shorter set of stock pins, the pedals have a fairly flat feel. The grip is already pretty good with the short pins, offering a secure hold on your foot that still allows for easy re-positioning. I should note I rode the Pythons with my grippiest pair of shoes (FiveTen Freeriders).

FUNN set me up with a set of the longer pins, so I did what I think a lot of riders would – I put them in the front and rear parts of the pedal and left the shorter pins in the middle. Immediately I preferred this setup; the longer pins offered noticeably more grip, and the pedals felt more concave (which I like). At this point adjusting a foot took a bit of intention, so I was happy with the level of grip and never installed the full set of longer pins. If you did you’d have one very grippy pedal, just with a less concave feel.

To be honest with our readers, I didn’t really get to beat the crap out of the Python pedals as most of my time spent with them were ‘rehab rides’ after an injury this spring. I’ve put some decent distance on them, but they haven’t been subjected to much on-trail abuse. My Pythons aren’t showing any concerning signs of wear, play, or damage, but they have had it pretty easy. If any serious issues occur this season, I will update this article accordingly!

FUNN’s new Python pedals retail for $115, and they will be available by the end of June. Color options are Black, Grey, Orange, Green, Red, and Blue.

funnmtb.com

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The Vittoria Mazza, Mota, and Martello mountain bike tires are now available in a premium Enduro Race model, with a tread pattern made up of a softer, single-compound rubber, and a more supple 1 x 60 TPI casing construction. They each bear the same respective tread patterns, but with an all-new super soft, low rebound rubber that combines Graphene and Silica to produce what is said to result in maximal grip and damping at every lean angle.

Vittoria position the new tires as their most performance-oriented tire for gravity riders.

The Mazza is the Italian brand’s most popular tire for trail and enduro usage. We test it here in the new Enduro Race casing.

Vittoria Mazza Mountain Bike Tires: An Overview

Before we divulge our first ride impressions, it is pertinent to understand the range in a bit more detail. The Vittoria Mazza line-up (and Mota and Martello, for that matter) now comprises the following three tires:

• Mazza Trail: 1-ply 120 TPI construction with an anti-puncture breaker belt underneath the tread, and sidewall reinforcement provided by a layer of nylon and an anti pinch-flat insert
• Mazza Enduro: 2-ply 120 TPI construction with an anti pinch-flat insert in the sidewalls
• Mazza Race Enduro: 1-ply 60 TPI with an anti-puncture layer underneath the center tread and a shorter anti pinch-flat insert at the sidewalls

This is much better understood by looking closely at the cutaway profile of each of the casings; differences between the three are most clearly seen at the sidewall.

While the Trail and Enduro Casing tires have a tread pattern made up of Vittoria’s 4C Graphene rubber, comprising four rubbers of varying durometer (or hardness), in a bid to balance grip with durability and rolling speed, the new Enduro Race is formed with a rubber of a single durometer.

Unlike some tire manufacturers, Vittoria does not divulge the actual Shore Hardness of their rubber compounds, but we are told that the single soft compound on the Enduro Race tire is softer than any of the four compounds that go into the 4C Graphene layup.

The Vittoria Mazza is not a new tire to me. I have previously tested it in the 2-ply 120 TPI Enduro option – review here. To summarize, I got on really well with the tread pattern, finding it predictable in corners with good mud clearance in sloppy conditions. I particularly liked how it performed as a rear tire; the 4C rubber is relatively fast-rolling, and the stepped leading edge center-tread seemed to provide excellent grip on steep, wet, technical climbs.

I do, however, recall some “pinging” sensations when riding the tire at 18psi, an undesirable characteristic that I put down to the very stiff sidewalls. When dropping pressure to as low as 15psi, the tire burped air and sealant to the point where it wasn’t really a viable option.

The final comments in my review of the Mazza Enduro are: “While Vittoria’s 4C Compound is a quality fast-rolling hard-wearing rubber compound, it is the only compound they offer. A softer, tackier, lower rebound compound would be a welcome addition to their line-up, allowing the brand to really take on the big names in mountain bike tires”.

I asked, and Vittoria has produced.

First Impressions: Vittoria Mazza Enduro Race

In my hands, the tread blocks of the Enduro Race tire feel a bit softer and, most notably, rebound to the original shape much more slowly than the tread blocks of the 4C Compound Enduro tire.

Handling the cut-down carcass of the two casings, the difference in stiffness at the side walls is significant. The sidewall of the Mazza Enduro is barely foldable thanks the much thicker anti pinch-flat insert, whereas the sidewall of the Mazza Enduro Race is far more supple, without being quite so flexible as the Mazza Trail casing.

I tested the Mazza Enduro Race as a front tire only, in 27.5″ x 2.6. On our Park Tool DS-2 scale, it weighed in at 1,336 grams, which is a not-insignificant 121 grams heavier than the claimed weight. The 29″ x 2.6″ weighs 1,393 grams, slightly lighter than its 1,400g claimed weight. Still, it’s a good bit heavier than a 29″ x 2.5″ Maxxis Assegai in the DoubleDown MaxxGrip variety (1,313 grams).

The Mazza Enduro Race measured up much narrower than its advertised 2.6″ width on the 33mm internal width aluminum rim of the Hunt Enduro Wide V2 Wheelset; our Park Tool calipers measured the width at 2.45″. The tire was easily wrangled onto the rim. I seated it tubeless with use of a compressor, purely because I was in a hurry.

Terrain-wise, the Mazza is a bit of an all-rounder, but Vittoria suggest it performs best in mixed, loose, and damp-to-wet conditions. The two banked rides I have on this tire cover that spectrum nicely. My local trails of the Tweed Valley, specifically those known affectionately as the Golfy, have everything from fast, shale-like loose-over-hard tracks, to soft loam of the fresh cut variety.

My first ride impressions are good. Very good, actually.

Trail conditions are intermediate right now, though drying out rapidly. Long stretches of reliable tackiness give way to small patches of moist, greasiness, but these are few and far between. The Vittoria Mazza Enduro Race has been flattering at every turn.

Just as I remembered, the Mazza corners with good to excellent predictability, with no feelings of vagueness as the bike is leaned over into turns. I’m in no danger of bar dragging, but I found the tire to deliver consistent grip at reasonably high lean angles in flatter corners.

Under braking, the tire is very responsive. It’s not abrupt by any means, but it does seem to bite a little more firmly into the dirt than the Continental Kryptotal Front it replaced.

At 16psi, the tire was providing plentiful stability on rockier, loose terrain, and was holding its shape nicely in corners with more compression at the apex. Happy with that, I built the confidence to drop the pressure to 15psi, and have since experienced no ill effects of doing so. I have no tire burp incidents to report, no loss of traction, nothing remotely negative, in fact! I reckon I could probably go lower.

The tire has held some nice root-ridden, off-camber lines through the loam. It’s not defying the laws of physics or anything; I have felt some sliding sensations on the odd shiny root, but really I can’t complain. The tire is sufficiently supple to deform to most features encountered, and provides a consistent level of traction that is, so far, as good as a Continental Kryptotal, and Maxxis Assegai of the MaxxGrip flavor.

Having only ridden the tire on two occasions, it is of course very early days. But, so far, I’m really stoked on the levels of grip and comfort provided by the softer compound and more supple casing of the Vittoria Mazza Enduro Race. I have no desire to switch it out for any of the aforementioned; I believe this one has many a happy lap ahead of it.

Pricing & Availability

In my view, Vittoria’s tires offer really good value in terms of their performance, particularly when compared to Maxxis pricing. The Mazza Enduro Race tested here, as well as the Mota and Martello equivalents, retails at $89.99 / £64.99 / 72.95 € in Italy.

Vittoria.com

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Unbound gravel is coming up, and the new Challenge Getaway XP tire might be the combo that everyone is looking for. Challenges’ all-new XP (Extra Protection) series claims to offer the ride feedback of a tubular with the protection of beefed-up nylon casing vulcanized tire.

The Italian tire manufacturer primarily creates road, cyclocross, and gravel tires — mainly focusing on supple handmade tubular and open tubular construction — even with the mountain bike tires they offer, too.

The Getaway tread has been around for a few years now — we were some of the first to ride the fast gravel tread — and it’s now Challenge’s top, most-popular gravel offering. It’s a dry-ish focused, fast do-it-all design with many dedicated gravel followers. The tread has a tightly packed, fast-rolling center for straight-line tread for speed and open transition knobs for sandy or wet courses.

Challenge Getaway XP reinforced gravel racing tire

The only piece missing from the Getaway was a beefed-up version to take the abuse of an ultra-long day out in sharp rocks and logging roads. Challenge has been quietly adapting their reinforced tubeless tubular tech into a more durable tubeless tire over the past year, working on just that — the Challenge Getaway XP (Extra Protection) for endurance rides on rougher terrains.

The tire is part of Challenge’s new reinforced Gravel XP Series, which focuses on all those looking for an overall robust and durable tire, without compromising comfort and handling.

To arm the new XP Series of tires, Challenge opted for a bead-to-bead makeover of protection and compound to enhance its new endurance tires.

All-new Corazza Armor Gold protection tech

The resulting Corazza Armor Gold is a specific extra layer of tightly woven material on the inside of the tire that helps reinforce it against aggressive conditions. The new Getaway XP is the first Challenge tire to have the Corazza Armor Gold, but all tires in the XP Series will share this technology moving forward.

Challenge SmartPlus Compound

The Challenge Getaway XP has a special higher durometer natural rubber than others in the Challenge line called SmartPlus Compound. While providing reduced wear and enhanced durability, the SmartPlus rubber compound retains all the natural rubber properties — offering grip, shock absorption, control, and reduced rolling resistance.

Chafer Aramid Bead Protection Strip

The new Getaway XP includes a bead protection strip to aid in tire life by reducing the effects of rubbing against the rim’s carbon bead hooks — especially helpful on any rim with sharp edges. The black chafer band also acts as a precise line around the rim to confirm the tire is seated properly when inflating.

Challenge Getaway XP – Pricing and Availability

The all-new Challenge Getaway XP will be available in 40mm and 45mm in a Handmade Tubeless Ready casing and is hookless compatible.

• Price: $94.00
• Sizes: 40mm and 45mm
• Weight: 632g – 45mm
• Available: June 3rd, 2023

Challenge Getaway — First Impressions

This new Challenge Getaway XP is a handmade open tubular, so it’s different than most traditionally vulcanized gravel tires on the market. The XP casing creates a thick, more robust tire, keeping the handmade nylon tubular (cotton-like) feel.

The casing is very supple to the touch but notably thicker than all other Challenge tires I’ve ridden. The tread sits high on the tire’s carcass but comes down enough to offer legit cornering knobs. The shoulder knobs are enough for digging into the mud when sunk in, but not as large as the Chicane, as to feel overwhelming.

Getaway — Install & Setup

Setting up open-tubular tires tubeless can be tricky, especially when they are wide, like the Challenge Getaway XP 45mm tires. They are essentially flat before use, unlike the pre-curved shape you get from conventional tires. You have to have a plan of attack, and with unreleased tires, usually, that plan has yet to be discovered.

For me, the plan was to get the full tire over the rim and then push the bead on from over the top. Since the tire is flatter than most, this tactic seemed the best. After wrestling with it for a minute, the first side went on, and I knew I was dialed. The second side popped into place, and I was good to inflate — no compressor needed.

I installed the Challenge Getaway XPs on: Roval Terra CLX II, CADEX 36 (hookless), and Bontrager RSL 36 wheels. The tires were easy enough to install on all the aforementioned, especially on the hookless wheels.

The tires inflated to a nice 46mm wide at 30psi on the Roval Terra CLX II. And they are just enough volume to max out (but still with mud wiggle room) the clearance in my 2022 Specialized Crux.

Riding Impressions

I’ve had little time on the Getaway XPs so far, but I am fairly stoked from my brief time on them. The ride feels much like a tubular tire, with a muted yet supple quality. The open tubular feel differs quite a lot from the gravel-style tires I’ve ridden over the past year.

On the open road, the Getaway is a fast tire; the tightly spaced center line keeps a fast roll, and the overall tread is minimal. The knobs offer a round tire with predictable corning on the road, compared to some “flat top” style gravel treads that are all or nothing.

The volume was a bit much for me on my initial road-ish rides, but the Getaway hit its stride when I hit the gravel and dirt. The volume aids in traction and comfort, noticeably. The open tubular casing is very active and sensitive over bumps and terrain. The thickness of the XP casing takes away a bit of the suppleness (compared to the original Getaway casing), but it’s hardly noticeable with such a wide 45mm of this tire.

I can’t 100% speak to the puncture protectiveness of the Getaway XP tire and new Corazza Armor. Though I have ridden this tire in some sketchy places, the sidewalls are still very much intact, and I’ve yet to flat. I’ll have a full report and updated complete review shortly.

In the meantime, Challange has a new contender of a tire for the likes of Unbound and epic endurance gravel races. We’re eager to get more rides on them.

To find yours, check out ChallengeTires.com or swing by the Challenge tire booth at Unbound Gravel on June 3, 2023.

ChallengeTires.com

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When you think of Terevail tires, you probably think gravel, or gnarly MTB tires, certainly not road. That’s about to change; the tire manufacturer is not only entering the road market but coming in hot with a performance-driven compound and daily all-around design — Meet the Teravail Telegraph.

Details — Teravail Telegraph Tire

The Teravail Telegraph tire is a 30mm performance-designed road tire, combining Teravail’s high-speed grip compound and a voluminous casing. The casing of the new Telegraph is a 120 TPI tubeless-ready casing with single compound rubber, chosen by Teravail for its compliance and grip. For added setup ease, the Terevail casing has a hidden internal liner for a clean and efficient tubeless setup.

The tread (or lack of it) is a slightly textured mix, similar to the Michelin line of tires. The sides have a staggered siping pattern that should clear water and aid in grip.

Currently, the Teravail Telegraph is only available in size 700X30mm but comes in two casing offerings; Light and Supple (tan sidewall) or Durable (black sidewall).

Pricing and Availability — Teravail Telegraph

• Light and Supple Casing: 700c x 30 mm,
• Sidewall Color: Tan or Black Sidewall
• Weight:
• Price: $70

• Durable Casing: 700c x 30 mm,
• Sidewall Color: Black
• Weight:
• Price: $75

Ride Impressions — Teravail Telegraph

When the Teravail Telegraph came across my desk, I was finishing a performance tire review. Seeing a road tire from a company I mainly think of as gravel and hefty mountain focus was interesting. I like the Teravail tires I’ve ridden in the past, but I wouldn’t label them as uber performance, especially compared to the exceptional gravel options. I decided to do all my training and racing on the Telegraph for the next couple of weeks and was delighted with the results.

Mounting and inflation are simple; the light/supple and durable tires are inflated with a floor pump without removing the valve cores. I mounted each tire on hookless and hooked rims with similarly easy installation.

Weight-wise, there is a slight uptick for the durable casing compared to the light/supple, but the tan side walls look faster, so I went with those for my first rides. The Telegraph tires measured 30.74mm on the new Specialized Terra CXL wheels with 25mm inter-rim width and a hooked rim.

Coming from a performance tire nearly the same size as the Telegraphs, I expected a drop in efficiency and some harshness out of the gate. On the contrary, the Telegraphs felt on par with the much more expensive tires.

Dependable and Trustworthy

The design is dependable, classic, and trustworthy. The casing on the light and supple exhibits those ride qualities and gets better with lower pressures. Depending on the ride and conditions, I found my sweet spot was around 50 to 57 psi. Grip-wise and performance-wise, the Telegraphs are very predictable. I didn’t have a slip in the corners or feel “over-tired” in the weeknight training crit. Plus — I’ve yet to have a flat over many miles (and questionable gravel roads).

Riding the Teravail Telegraph in the Durable casing, I had a similar ride impression. Yes, the durable casing is slightly heavier, and with that, the ride is not as crisp as the Light/Supple casing, but the overall performance is excellent.

Comparing the two casing options, the durable casing feels muted when ridden directly compared to the light and supple. The corning feels the same, and so does the overall ride quality. The thicker casing affects the tire’s pressure sensitivity while running 55psi in the light and supple; I chose to run lower pressure to get a similar feel from the Durable casing option.

Teravail Telegraph Tires — Final thoughts

Terevail has a winner in the new Telegraph tire. It’s dependable, solid price-wise, and rolls well on various terrain. Did they make the fastest tire out there? No, but they did create a quick, predictable tire that can put up with many bad roads and debris.

Rumor is that Terevail plans to offer the Telegraph in more sizes, and I would love to see that, especially in a 32mm for all road riding and a 28mm for road racing.

For more information and purchase, check out: Teravail.com

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A couple of all-new off-road PRO Bike Gear MSN & MSU saddles add two more supportive short-fit MTB shapes for aggressive enduro and performance-oriented ebikers. They also reveal a new descriptive saddle naming convention that Pro has been working on to make it easier for consumers and bike shops to help pick the right saddle for each rider, fit, riding discipline, and budget…

PRO MSN enduro & MSU all-mountain ebike saddles

These two new relatively lightweight & affordable saddles expand on Pro’s modern MTB line-up, adding a couple more short-fit options to the Stealth Offroad adapted from the road. Ideal for riders looking for wide comfort & supportive performance in a saddle that won’t hook a pair of baggy shorts, and with taller, padded sides to the nose that allow you to comfortably control the bike when you get out of the saddle.

Pick the MSN for all-around all-mountain riding, or the MSU with a bit more rear support for eMTB rides.

Tech details

First off, Pro’s new MSN & MSU saddles are meant to usher in a new 3-letter naming convention that adds more descriptive clarity vs. their old school names like Stealth Offroad, Volture, Griffon & Turnix for example. (Do you remember what’s unique about each of those?)

The first letter M means mountain bike specific. The second letter S means short length. And the third letter is the rider position. N is neutral for all-around riding where you aren’t leaned over too forward and can still comfortably pedal uphill while seated, albeit maybe slid forward a bit more – intended for enduro, all-mountain, and technical trail riding. U is for upright riding with a higher bar:saddle position, more appropriate for ebikes where the rider will spend more time seated in the same position while pedaling uphill, on the flats, and over rolling terrain. Pro suggests there may also be a future A for aggressive positions on the bike or F for more forward-leaning bike fits.

On top of that is a 2-number classification that will describe the saddle’s base, rail & padding construction. That first 1 seems to signal a lightweight carbon-reinforced nylon shell. And the second 3 seems to be for the mid-spec tubular stainless steel rails and conventional polyurethane padding. We’ll have to wait for more saddles to adopt the new naming convention for more clarification.

“All PRO Saddles feature a 30-Day Money-Back Guarantee and like all PRO products the new PRO saddles carry a limited lifetime warranty; based on a 10-year expected lifetime.“

PRO MSN 1.3 enduro mountain bike saddle

The technical mountain biking MSN is available now in this one 1.3 level spec for $150 / 120€, with tubular steel rails, a carbon-reinforced base, and a durable black-on-black polyurethane cover. It comes in two widths – 142mm at a claimed 255g or 152mm at 275g. It features a full-length pressure relief channel, plus a central cutout with a plastic insert designed to allow mud & water to drain through.

PRO MSU 1.3 eMTB saddle

The eMTB-specific MSU also comes in the same 1.3 level spec, for the same $150 / 120€ pricetag. It shares identical tubular steel rails, carbon-reinforced shell construction, and tough polyurethane cover. It also comes in two widths – 142mm at a claimed 272g or 152mm at 285g.

It features a pressure-relief channel that is carried from the tip of its nose to the mid-section cutout, again with a plastic insert designed to allow water to drain. It has thicker padding at the rear and a slightly higher tail to push against as ebikers tend to spend more time seated and spinning to get the most out of their pedal assist.

First Rides Review

Previewed at the end of last month on parent Shimano’s latest and truly innovative AutoShift & FreeShift equipped e-mountainbikes, I spent a couple of long days comfortably perched on top of the new PRO MSU eMTB saddle, not needing to shift myself – either shifting the bike or shifting around on the saddle.

At first look, the PRO graphics across the top of its cover are more low-key than the studio photos suggested, and once I got muddy at all they almost completely blended in. Cleaning & drying the saddle and the graphics did subtly peek back out again, though.

And while the drainage port seemed to do well keeping water from pooling in the cutout (an actual issue with my closed Stealth Offroad), it was no match for my riding in the mud and needed a proper clean out.

Riding over a lot of really rough, rocky terrain, the MSU 1.3 did a good job of being just soft enough to be comfortable, while never feeling squishy. At a claimed 272g for my 142mm wide saddle, it’s almost 1/3 heavier than my Stealth Offroad – which I ride on gravel, light trail bikes, and a cargo ebike. But the thicker rear padding of the MSU offers a much more comfortable tail to push against for seated ebike climbing, and just longer periods of time staying seated.

The Pro MSU 1.3 is a pretty unassuming saddle with generous-looking, but firm padding. And its best trait as an ebike saddle is that it disappeared under me as I rode. I’ve only spent a few days riding it on eMTBs, but I plan now to swap one in for a more comfortable ride on my e-cargo setup back at home.

PRO-BikeGear.com

The post PRO MSN Enduro & MSU eMTB Off-Road Saddles Reclassify Performance – First Rides appeared first on Bikerumor.

Let’s start off by saying that nothing in this Shimano eMTB EP8, LinkGlide & XT Di2 review is really new, not even the AutoShift itself. This is all tech that we’ve already covered over the last two years, or so. On their own, each of these updates had its own merit, but didn’t seem all that important in our eyes (and likely to many others in the cycling industry. Yet combined together, they truly have the possibility to be transformative in how a few different types of riders use ebikes. The sum is actually greater than its parts.

But wait, do any of us actually want an automatically-shifting e-mountainbike in the first place?

Shimano eMTB AutoShift & FreeShift – What & Why?

Starting with a simple conclusion from my second day riding this tech: “I completed a very technical – rocky, wet & greasy – 42km / 1000m of climbing / 4-hour elapsed / 2.5-hour moving mountain bike ride on a Santa Cruz Bullit CC eMTB equipped with Shimano AutoShift and did not shift manually one single time. And I never felt like I was missing out by not shifting manually. Just pedal, and enjoy the ride.” – me

With that out of the way, I can dial back to my starting point…

No, I didn’t think I wanted an auto-shifting ebike. Just like how in theory I want a manual transmission in my car, why would I ever think of giving up manual control of my bike/ebike’s shifting? But I wasn’t so against the idea, to not give it a try. And after spending two technical days riding it, I’m a lot more intrigued by the concept. And on a side note, my old van is still a manual, but my newer family car is an automatic, and I enjoy driving both.

FreeShift is a no-brainer. Every time you slow down approaching a turn or navigating a technical section, the bike automatically downshifts to an ideal gear that you can pre-set, so when you exit the techy spot you are already in the perfect gear to pedal out again.

AutoShift is a harder concept to accept. The bike constantly monitors your rolling speed, your cadence, and the power you put into the pedals, and shifts itself whenever it determines that you are not in an optimal gear. You can manually shift yourself – overriding the AutoShift at any time – or simply turn off the automatic system if you don’t want it to be in control. But you really can just ride without thinking about what gear you are in, and the ebike brain keeps you going.

Ebike tech concepts

What you have is: an updated ebike powertrain system that has more power & versatility than ever, a drivetrain that prioritizes increased durability and the ability to truly shift under load instead of incremental shift speed gains, and an electronic shifting system that will automatically downshift your bike as you coast down into a difficult section or turn AND give you the option to fully automate every shift based on a few keys sensor inputs.

Only an ebike can bring these systems together. And only a new ebike can combine them all to work. No normal / analog / acoustic bikes can Auto or Free Shift. And no existing ebikes can be retrofitted if this setup was not already installed by the manufacturer. That really limits the application of this tech for the time being. But we suspect as more people (and OEM bike brands) accept that this style of riding can be beneficial, it will become much more mainstream in the eMTB and likely eGravel ebike markets.

Step 1: Shimano EP8 – EP-801 drive units

You need the latest EP-801 generation of Shimano’s top EP8 ebike motor to make any of this work. It has higher torque than the first E8000 generation – now 85Nm – and more complex & customizable rider power-matching curves. It adds more ports to connect powered accessories, smarter battery management, and a new fine-tune support control mode. And it improves communication capabilities to collect & share data and to control that new Di2 derailleur. The update essentially soft-launched last summer around Eurobike 2022.

Step 2: LinkGlide drivetrain

LinkGlide promised 3x cassette lifespan durability when it debuted 2 years ago by putting 11 thicker cogs in the space of 12 modern HyperGlide+ cogs. What they didn’t really talk much about was shifting under load.

To get the full automatic shifting feature, you need a cassette that truly can shift under full load. Lots of drivetrains claim you can shift under full load, but because of the need to mesh gears or chain+cog, most that just means shifts under greater load. This one really shifts whenever it wants, which often happens to be when you are pedaling hard AND when that EP-801 motor is also helping you pedal hard. It’s not quiet. The clunky sound of the shift seems sketchy at first – it’s not so different that the bad-new chunky sound of a thing cog shifting under load and being damaged. But Shimano engineers assure that LinkGlide is happy to clunk, and its performance does not degrade over time like a lighter setup would.

LinkGlide also now forms the basis for the recently described, lower-cost 9-, 10- & 11-speed CUES drivetrains.

Step 3: XT Di2

The last piece of the puzzle is an electronic ebike-only XT Di2 rear derailleur that can be activated by more than one type of signal input, and a Di2 shifter for when you as the rider want to exert control on your shifts.

Shimano says their evolution of MTB Di2 had essentially been chasing even faster shifts from the racing/performance mountain bike side. But the improvements weren’t really that significant over the top-tier mechanical XTR anyway since you were still relying on the same cassette shift ramps to convert derailleur movement into a real gear shift – and not really justifiable for the additional cost to create something like XTR Di2. But…

When combined with an ebike drive system though, there were two new possible shift modes that were outside of the traditional shifting paradigm. And you could more easily share similar hardware in the same overall spacing for both lightweight 12-speed systems or more robust 11-speed systems.

The Result: Automated shifting control

Together, EP-801 plus LinkGlide 11sp or HyperGlide+ 12sp plus XT Di2 allows for FreeShift, the ability of your drivetrain to automatically downshift as you are freewheeling or you to manually shift while coasting.

Or combined, EP-801 plus LinkGlide 11sp only plus XT Di2 allow for AutoShift, the ability of your drivetrain to automatically upshift AND downshift while you are pedaling to always be in a correct gear, based on its smart algorithm (more than just a preset cadence:speed ratio). Plus, you still get FreeShift when you slow down while coasting.

Important note: Both of these automated shifting modes are completely up to the end-user on ebikes equipped with them. It’s easy to turn them off if you don’t want automated control. You can also easily disable one, while keeping the other. And both allow for setting customization via Shimano’s eTube mobile phone app, so you can quickly pick (or change) the gear that FreeShift returns to when you coast, or you can pick what is your optimal cadence (Shift Timing) of optimal rider torque input (Climb Response) for AutoShifting

Review: The verdict… are Shimano AutoShift & FreeShift better?

It’s undeniably weird to let the ebike shift for you, after something like 3 decades of me always being in charge of shifting while I ride. At first I was thinking too much about it, and even my thumb accidentally manually shifting out of habit.

So I reprogrammed the right-side Di2 shift buttons via the eTube app to control the ebike power assist mode (just like the left-side EP8 remote) so I wouldn’t accidentally override the automation, and never looked back.

I rode the automatically shifting bike up winding doubletrack, steep rocky climbs & long gravel road ascents, across deep creek crossings, through slow slippery rock gardens & deep sucking gravel sections, over wet roots, and down singletrack littered with small drops and the occasional kicker jump. Never did I miss shifting, and the bike never really missed a shift. Some of the steep techy climbs came with louder chunkier shifts, but it shifted without my input.

I only ever moved from Eco to Trail to Boost modes to select how aggressively I wanted the motor to support my pedal input, depending on terrain and slope.

On one steep greasy muddy ramp and on one really rocky technical climb, I didn’t quite make it up on my first attempt. So, I went back, spun my cadence a bit differently to instigate the ebike to shift when I wanted in anticipation of a steep climb that it could not have predicted, and I cleaned both of these very touch sections on their second attempt. Both were also sections that I likely could not have cleaned on a non-ebike, at least not with the challenging conditions I faced because of the weather.

Do you need Shimano AutoShift? And how can you even get it?

First off – No, you don’t need Shimano AutoShift or FreeShift. But why wouldn’t you want to have it as an option?

AutoShift really let me ignore what gear I was in and just ride. It was oddly freeing, and my brain quickly forgot that I normally should be shifting as I ride. (I also had no problem transitioning back to regular manual-shift non-e normal bikes the very next day.) And FreeShift is just cool – slow down or stop, and the ebike is just magically in the perfect gear to start riding again. All bikes would benefit from this, were it possible.

So where do you get it, is a harder question, as it is only an OEM thing and it can’t be retrofitted. Our test fleet of Canyon, Orbea, Santa Cruz & Yeti mountain ebikes is a good hint of where you might find the correct EP-801+LinkGlide+Di2 combo soon. But that list is not exhaustive, and real global availability is still up in the air – often dependent on Shimano’s own component supply to these and more brands. Bike rumors have it that some e-gravel options may even be available with automatic shifting sooner in North America than the eMTBs.

The point of this review is less to tell you to go buy this Shimano AutoShift tech now – you probably would have trouble to do so anyway – and more to say that it’s worth thinking about. I’m a technical mountain biker, and I went into this very skeptical. But I came away a few days later open to the idea of automated shifting on ebikes.

Maybe we can just lean back and enjoy the ride.

Shimano.com

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Garmin introduces new additions to its Edge series; the all-new Edge 540 and Edge 840 Series. The new units are an updated compact design that allows for easy functionality and personalization, no matter what cycling discipline you’re after. The series combines performance-based training metrics, enhanced navigational support, connected features, and more.

New solar charging models (similar to the Edge 1040S) supply more ride time between charges with up to 32 hours of battery life (in fully engaged modes) or up to 60 hours in battery-saver mode.

What is it — Garmin Edge 540 / 840

The new Edge 540 and 840 carry over the user interface from the Edge 1040 and supply a more pleasant user experience—the updated interface ties in seamlessly with Garmin Connect to provide cyclists with dynamic insights and analytics. Plus – riders can track all metrics and create a page to view them while on a ride, like; stamina, body battery, time to exhaustion, performance indicator, power goals, pedaling coach, and much (much) more.

Updated Design

All Edge 540 and 840 Series models have a 2.6-inch color display and feature button controls that work efficiently in any riding environment. The Edge 840 Series computers also include a responsive touchscreen similar to the Edge 1040. This sizing is a slight departure from the convention of the 800 series being slightly larger than the 500, though functionality and accuracy remain equal.

Improved Mapping, Navigation, and Exploring

Updated mapping brings more of a community feel, with improved ride type-specific maps that use Trendline Popularity Routing to highlight roads and trails. The maps include searchable points of interest, like coffee shops and other fun features.

Edge 540 and 840 Series users can access worldwide Trailforks trail content, allowing riders to view routes and trail details even while traveling. If you’re feeling like a detour (or just exploring), you can pause route guidance and off-course notifications to jaunt around the area and turn navigation back on at your convenience.

Messaging and Safety

The updated Edge 540 and Edge 840 come with LiveTrack, group messaging, and incident detection for all cycling activities–including mountain biking. Like all Garmin devices, Edge 540 and Edge 840 Series are compatible with the Varia line of cycling radars, headlights, and inReach devices with SOS capabilities and communication when off-the-grid.

New features — Edge 540 and 840

• Riding ability and course demands: Identify strengths and weaknesses as a cyclist and prepare for the demands of a specific course by focusing training in the right areas
• Targeted adaptive coaching: Whether cycling indoors or outdoors, riders can view daily suggested workouts and training prompts, plus receive personalized coaching that adapts based on training load, recovery, and the demands of upcoming events.
• Real-time stamina: Monitor and track exertion levels in real-time during a ride to help influence training efforts or see how much further the current pace can be maintained
• Power guide: Manage efforts with power targets throughout a course
• ClimbPro ascent planner: View the remaining ascent and grade for each climb while riding
  freely without course navigation or search for climbs directly on the Edge and in the Garmin ConnectTM smartphone app before heading out.
• Multi-band GNSS: Cyclists can easily find their way with enhanced positioning accuracy via multi-band GNSS technology. Edge 540/840 operates well in challenging environments, such as dense tree cover or downtown urban environments.
• Solar charging: Power GlassTM solar charging lens on solar models extends battery life to up to 60 hours in battery-saver mode, giving cyclists up to an extra 25 minutes per hour during daytime riding. *Only for Solar units.

Garmin Edge 540 Solar — First Impressions

I was excited to hear that Garmin was releasing Edge 540/840 models. I’m a fan of the Edge 1040S, but it’s a giant head unit best used on the road and touring.

The unit is compact, and the solar panel surrounding the 2.5″ screen doesn’t interfere with viewing. Like its other units, Garmin updated the charging to C-type and snuck in a replaceable mount for those rough on their head units (raises hand).

When the head unit arrived, I was running behind on a ride and was looking to set it up as quickly as possible. The updated Garmin Connect interface for setting up a new device was fantastic. I could adjust and customize my screens on the phone quickly.

On the road and in the woods, I was delighted with the performance of the Edge 540S. Though, when you begin to use all the auto features without checking (or unchecking), you might be in for a noisy ride.

For those that enjoy a beepless ride, you’ll need to uncheck the features during setup. I quickly discovered that all my favorite Strava segments were ready to conquer via the Garmin Connect auto-sync— same with Climb Pro and auto-lap every five miles. After lots of beeping every few minutes, I stopped to uncheck the segments, climb, and laps. It’s easy and something I should have done preride — lesson learned.

Changing from the larger touchscreen 1040S, I thought I would encounter some issues pivoting to a non-touchscreen unit. On the contrary, I liked it more, especially for off-road use. The size is ideal for mountain bike use, and the bright color screen is very easy to see in the forest. The lap and start/stop buttons are slightly smaller than the previous version but are easy enough to tap with gloves and during an effort.

As far as the buttons go (seven in total), all are easy to access while riding. The screen toggle button (bottom left) has a minor groove making it very pleasant to operate with the index finger, and it requires very little pressure.

The solar panels gather power just as smoothly as with the Edge 1040S and with the same screens urging you to place it in the sun.

Garmin updated the interface with intuitive features like holding the menu button for 3 seconds to access the whole menu and other smart updates. I thought navigating the unit without a touch screen could be cumbersome, but I was effortlessly flying around the interface after a few rides. Plus — it seems Garmin is rapidly updating the unit, and the interface is getting easier to operate.

Final Impressions

So far, I’ve been very pleased with the Edge 540S. I’ve used it in muddy races, and it’s been power washed and dropped a few times (sorry Garmin). Seeing such a resilient powerhouse of a head unit in a small package is fantastic — Check back for a full review shortly.

Garmin Edge 540 / Edge 840 Pricing and Availablity

The Garmin Edge 540 Solar and Edge 840 Solar are available now from your local bike shop and Garmin dealer.

• Edge 840 Solar Price: $550
  Edge 540 Solar Price: $450
• Non-Solar Edge 840 Price: $450
  Non-Solar Edge 540 Price: $350

For more information, check out: Garmin.com

The post Garmin Edge 540 and 840 Series Update Features and Introduces Solar Options appeared first on Bikerumor.

HUNT Race XC Wide mountain bike wheelset looks to strike a note with performance-driven and cost-conscious riders. The Race XC wheelset pairs 6069-T6 alloy rims, HUNT’s 5° RapidEngage hubs, and a killer price point of $466 to offer performance and valve to the XC racer. We put these wheels through the paces and crummy East Coast winter conditions, and the results are good, but can this wheelset face off against low-cost carbon competitors? 

HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset: Construction

The HUNT Race XC Wide wheels roll on a 28-hole, 24mm wide alloy hookless rim, designed around 2.1- to 2.3-inch tires. The rim construction is a 6069-T6 alloy that HUNT says offers superior strength compared to conventional alloy. The work-hardened shot-peened finish helps the rims deflect minor-use scratches and plays a big part in overall durability and life. The graphics and presentation are classic HUNT, slightly understated with fabulous pops of unique personality like the “The Chase Is On” sticker. 

The Race XC Wide wheels lace two-cross front and rear using lightweight triple-butted straight-pull Pillar spokes. 

The hubs are HUNT’s in-house MTB hub set, boasting a 5° RapidEngage driver (four-pawl, 36-tooth internals) and a H_CERAMIK coating to extend the spline and overall hub life.

The hub set employs asymmetric hub flanges on the drive and braking sides. The hub offers both center-lock and 6-bolt rotor options, so choose wisely. The bearings are large 6902s for the front/rear that are double-sealed, with enough room to accommodate all frame/axle sizes.

As for upgrading an old frame, HUNT states on its site: “We will fit the axles you need, just complete the simple form shown after checkout or add a comment in the notes section of the cart page.” 

HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset: Tech Details

• Rims: 29″. 6069 T6 (+69% tensile strength vs. 6061-T6) sleeved construction, 24mm wide (internal), work-hardened shot-peened finish
• Hubs: 5° RapidEngage and H_CERAMIK coating for increased durability and strength; large double-sealed cartridge bearings; Boost (110/148) fitment with RockShox Torque Caps and Boost QR adapters (110/141) available. (“We will fit the axles you need, complete the simple form shown after checkout or add a comment in the notes section of the cart page”). Hubs are available with a 6-bolt disc mount or center-lock option.
• Spokes: 28 spoke count, straight pull PSR reinforced head Pillar spokes
• Tires: Optimized for 2″ to 2.3″ tires set up tubeless, but also work very well with 2.2″ to 2.5″. Also great with standard tires and tubes.
• Axles: Oversize 7075-T6 heat-treated aluminum alloy axles
• Hand-built: All wheels are built and finished by hand, including a full quality-control inspection; ours were built by Victor. 
• Weight: 1,517 g (including tape, not valve cores) 
• Available drivers: Shimano HG, SRAM XD, Shimano Microspline
• Price: $466 (as tested)

The Ride: Setup and Dial-In

I was eager to get these wheels on the trails, excited to see what a $460-ish hookless alloy wheelset would/could do. Most alloy wheelsets aim at the introductory rider, but the HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset looks toward more experienced riders and those looking to update their old machines. 

The wheels arrive taped and dialed in — with a build card (like all HUNT wheels) and basic usage instructions. The valve cores are HUNT’s in-house and looked to hold up to the standard in lightweight alloy tubeless valve fashion. 

My initial test tires are another low-price ($45), high-performance item: the American Classic Mauka 2.4″ down-country tire. The rim, on closer inspection, is super quality with a 3mm thick hookless bead and a modest height. Admittedly gun shy, I inflated the combo gingerly on the first wheel, but after the easy seating, I went full tilt with the next wheel.

The Ride: On the Trails

When fully inflated to a healthy 20 psi (I ran around with 18 psi front and 19 psi rear for most of my riding) the tire came to a plump 2.5, and the 24mm internal rim could handle it for the most part. In the brief snowy conditions, this tire and wheel combo was excellent. The extra volume was well appreciated, and the wheels/hubs took a healthy amount of winter slush without a problem. The 2.4-inch tire felt slightly tugged on the narrow rim and squirmish on the hardpack surface on dry trails. 

The American Classic Mauka 2.4″ measured much wider than advertised (more like 2.5 inches), and I wanted to roll something more in line with the wheels’ purpose. I mounted up some Vittoria Arrgo 2.35″ and they measured more at the 2.3 inches — right on the money for the 24mm rim. As the weather changed, I went from 2.4 inches to 2.35 inches.  

I spent most of my riding on this setup, on my hardtail and full-suspension XC bike, and was very pleased with the outcome. The wheels mesh better with a 2.2- to 2.35-inch tire. The rim is narrow enough to keep the cornering knobs in place but wide enough to supply excellent contact. I could feel the wheels’ performance more with narrower tires and dry trails. The boxy rim soaked up most of the bumps and didn’t ride abrasively, as some overbuilt carbon wheels can. 

In heavily bermed-out corners and pushing the limits of XC into freeride, the wheels don’t have the stiffness and pump speed you get from a super beefy carbon wheelset. This slight flex is not a drawback for my use and the intended use of this wheelset. It’s hard for an alloy wheel to be compliant and super stiff in the corners. The rim for the XC Wide version of this wheelset weighs in at 380 g per rim, and it gives the wheels an excellent pop-in acceleration. Suppose you’re looking for a mix of the two, with a leaning trail riding. I’m guessing these wheels’ wider and only slightly heavier “trail” version would easily bridge that gap. 

These wheels replaced a set of heavier, budget-carbon wheels I used for training, and I was unsure how they would be fair in comparison. Besides knowing they are alloy and priced way less than the others, I expected the HUNT Race XC wheels to be on the same level. I didn’t expect to like them more. The climbing performance with the weight reduction is fantastic. The wheels spin up quickly and are responsive under effort. I bottomed out more than a few times and cut side walls, but the rim stayed the same. Rock gardens and root monsters are totally within the realm of this wheelset. 

As far as performance longevity, these wheels went through an entire Pittsburgh winter, with many power washes and rainy training rides on gravel double track. The hubs spin just as freely as the day we received them, and the rim, though it took many dings, has yet to show them. I attribute this to the coating, lack of decoration, and a round profile. 

Conclusion: HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset

After many rides on the HUNT Race XC Wide wheels, I’m very impressed with the performance. The rim put up with lots of lousy line choices and questionable drops. HUNT offers a replacement rim for $100 from its website if and when the rim has had enough. These wheels would significantly upgrade many bikes and provide an excellent training wheelset for those who only use high-end carbon offerings. 

I only had to true the wheelset once, mainly because I was switching tires and decided to give them a look over. The front wheel was as straight as when I received them and the rear needed a light true, but it has been fine since. 

I recommend this wheelset for anyone looking for a low-cost performance upgrade for their cross-country bike, especially for those on heavy OEM wheels or for a lighter wheelset for race day. The price is superb for the product quality and top-notch customer service. 

If you’re a dedicated trail boss and heavy rider, there is a 120kg weight limit on the HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset. HUNT’s Trail Wide (1,860 g) or the Enduro Wide Wheelsets (2,065 g) are heavier but will offer a sturdier platform for huckin’ and shredding. Plus, replacement rims are the same $100 price! 

HuntBikeWheels.com

The post HUNT Race XC Wide Wheelset Review: Race Performance for under $500? appeared first on Bikerumor.

With just 80mm of travel, BikeYoke has scaled back their most-popular, never-spongy Revive dropper seatpost to 27.2mm in the new Revive 272 – admitting that they have given in to the peer pressure of the gravel boom. Now, adventurous gravel and even hold-out cross-country riders with 27.2 posts and stealth internal routing can benefit from dropping their saddle when the going gets rough, without the worry of installing a dropper only to suffer the bouncy fate of a failed IFP with air inside.

We tested it out, and break down the ups & downs…

BikeYoke Revive 272, 80mm travel 27.2mm gravel dropper post

Apparently since day 1 with the original Revive dropper – a distant 6.5 years ago – customers have been pestering BikeYoke for a 27.2mm version, certainly predating the gravel explosion. But BikeYoke continued to resist, as it is just incredibly difficult to fit their complex, long-life hydraulics inside such a small space.

Well, modern XC bikes moved to 30.9 & 31.6mm posts, but a lot of gravel bikes stuck with the OG seatpost size – whether for traditional small diameter looks or the added comfort benefit of the better flex characteristics of a smaller diameter cylinder. And now crazy gravel cyclists are riding their gravel bikes like mountain bikes – obviously on MTB-friendly singletrack, but also underbiking or down-graveling even more technical trails.

So, BikeYoke sucked it up and spent the time and R&D effort into squeezing their Revive tech into a 27.2mm dropper.

Wait, what is so special about a Revive dropper again?

Let’s go back in time 6 years to remember: the key to a Revive dropper is the unique patented configuration of its internal hydraulics that allows it to be reset, or essentially re-bled, when air bubbles invariably sneak past the flexing internal seals as your weight flexes the post. This common cavitation of the sealed IFP that occurs in most hydraulic dropper posts makes the post squish, and requires a replacement internal piston in most/many cases.

The Revive is simply revived by turning that bolt at the top (with a 4mm hex or the included min-lever on newer posts), pushing down on the post to let the air up and the oil back down. Then, releasing and going back to perfect drops and no squish at the top of extension.

So, what’s actually new?

The diameter & drop are the real new bits on the outside. The Revive 272 dropper is 27.2mm in diameter, and features a short 80mm of travel. The diameter rationale is obvious, but the short travel essentially boils down to making it fit the most amount of bikes – you only need 125mm of exposed seatpost in your bike to fit the new BikeYoke Revive 272. That means even gravel bikes with nearly horizontal or barely sloping toptubes will probably still fit the new dropper. And like on their “Cape Epic winning Divine SL” dropper, BikeYoke hopes you don’t get so incredibly rad on your gravel bike that you would need 213mm of drop… leave that for their bigger diameter Revive Max.

The new Revive 272 also take the cut-to-length adjustability from their short-travel Divine SL dropper post too. That means that while the 400mm length the Revive 272 is delivered to you is comparable with a long 27.2 posts and suitable for sloping geo XC bikes, you can also cut up to 100mm off the lower end of the shaft for gravel applications. Cutting it down to 300mm long overall also has the benefit of saving an extra 45g for those gravel weight weenies still reading… after having not been scared off of the outrage of putting a heavy dropper on a dropbar bike.

Tech details

BikeYoke claims a real weight of 385g for the uncut post – mine was a bit lighter than that since it weighed just 2g more with the addition of the optional 5g mini Revive Quick Reset lever which I like to have on the post. There is a version with titanium bolts that sheds 10g vs. my standard steel bolts. And you can save more by cutting it to length, which I eventually will do when I go into gram-saving mode one rainy day.

As usual, the Revive 272 dropper is user-serviceable, and BikeYoke sells affordable service kits that are pretty easy to install without complicated tools or hydraulic bleeding techniques.

Riding Impressions of the BikeYoke Revive 272

I popped the dropper into a do-it-all steel cross-to-gravel travel bike a friend built for me and drilled for internal routing, to see how it fared. And I can only say good things about the Revive 272. Much like previous Revives it goes up and down on command just like it says it will, and likely will for a long time to come. And you can even adjust the internal air pressure if you want a more forceful pop back up.

After having suffered from IFP cavitation on budget droppers that lasted only a year or so, I really appreciate the value in paying more upfront for a Revive dropper that will last much longer. Admittedly, the Revive is not cheap. But I personally have an original generation 31.6 Revive on a personal XC bike since late 2017, and with a few resets along the way and a <20€ service kit, it still works great. It’s definitely the only dropper I have still in service for that long.

Remaining Limitation of Dropbar Droppers

Maybe the single biggest limitation to gravel dropper posts in my opinion is not the added weight – compared to my carbon PRO Discover seatpost this added 171g for the post alone plus another 125g in cable & remote – but rather that remote. BikeYoke does not yet offer their own dropbar dropper remote, because they aren’t yet happy with the ones they’ve been developing. And I can sympathize. I’ve ridden with a few different dropbar remotes and I’m not satisfied either.

The tight bends when routed inside a dropbar, or even just under the tape, combined with trying to wrap your bartape around the remote, all add up to annoying friction in the system. And let’s not forget the pain of installing the post. To get a dropper into your bike you usually need to slide around 10-15cm of housing through your frame’s internal routing to get it to stick out of your frame to attach the post. If you are using an uncut Revive 272, that adds an extra 10cm of housing. Now with a remote under your bar tape or next to your stem, that’s impossible without a giant cable loop out front. (On a MTB bar with the remote next to the grip, you can move the remote close to your cable port during install, but not really so with a drop bar setup.)

For now, I think the best solution is hanging a flat bar remote next to your stem, with a pretty sizable cable loop in the end. And I will anxiously await a BikeYoke Dropbar Triggy remote with a better routing solution…

BikeYoke Revive 272 – Pricing & availability

The new 27.2mm x 80mm travel BikeYoke Revive 272 sells for $370 / 370€ with standard steel hardware, or $395€ with titanium bolts. You can also add one of BikeYoke’s flat bar remotes for an extra 40-65€, but they don’t have a mount to fit around a 31.8mm clamping area next to your stem as far as I’m aware. The new Revive 272 is available now direct from BikeYoke.

BikeYoke.com

The post BikeYoke Revive 272 brings proven dropper seatpost to down-gravel & XC: Review appeared first on Bikerumor.

Combining lightweight, maximum stiffness & the peak of tuned Adaptive ergonomics, the new top of Fizik’s Argo saddle family will even fit on more bikes than ever, thanks to a shift to more standard 7x9mm rails!

Fizik Vento Argo Adaptive 00 full carbon + 3D-printed saddle

The key point Fizik is stressing with the new Vento Argo Adaptive 00 saddle is the improved stiffness and additional weight savings that comes from the full carbon shell & one-piece Mobius carbon rails in the step up from the previous R1 level to this new top 00. But probably more important is the shift from the 7x10mm oval rails of previous R1 & 00 level carbon rails that limited what seatposts could actually fit Fizik’s top-tier carbon-railed saddles.

In fact, mounting any other recent carbon-railed Fizik saddle to this PRO Discover seatpost would not have been possible without the special set of 7×10.3mm clamps that PRO makes for fi’zi:k compatibility.

Tech details

From a tech perspective, Fizik’s long naming system is quite descriptive. fi’zi:k Vento Argo Adaptive 00. Vento means racing – road, gravel, cyclocross, or XC. Argo means short-fit. Adaptive means 3D-printed padding. 00 means light & stiff with full carbon shell & rails.

Technically, the 00 is the only part that’s new, as there already was a fi’zi:k Vento Argo Adaptive R1 model with a reinforced nylon shell and 7x10mm carbon rails.

But the upgrade to 7x9mm Mobius carbon rails is a big shift, and one I hope filters through the rest of the Fizik lineup. Many seatposts that clamp just the top & bottom of a saddle’s rails like the classic Thomson 2-bolt or Ritchey 1-bolt can work with either 7×9 or 7×10 oval carbon rails. But seat guts that clamp the entire side of the rail – like this 1-bolt PRO design or ENVE’s similar solution – need special adapters to fit Fizik’s non-standard oversized rails.

The Fizik Vento Argo Adaptive 00 saddle shares the same 265mm overall length with the other Argos, and comes in 140mm & 150mm widths. The 00 versions are also 2.5mm shorter in height, thanks to the thinner carbon construction.

First Impressions Installing & Riding

This Adaptive version uses the same Carbon Inc. Digital Light Synthesis 3D-printed TPU honeycomb patterned padding, that features vastly varying structural stiffness. Overall it feels quite soft in hand, but more firm & supportive while riding.

It gets a super supportive feel on the sides under your sit bones, only getting a bit softer at the nose. But the center rear panel is soft to the touch down to the carbon shell, while the same softness central pressure relief zone feels like there is minimal resistance as you can push through the cutout in the carbon shell.

Fizik calls the new Argo Adaptive 00 the “most stiff and lightweight option” in their short-nosed, Adaptive range… but that’s a pretty limited window.

In reality, the 140mm Argo Adaptive 00 claims a weight of 175g (ours was just 1g heavier), or 186g for the 150mm wide version. That’s just 15g/10g lighter than the Argo Adaptive R1, and actually a full 41g/47g heavier than the conventionally padded Argo 00.

Compare it to the Antares which first debuted the 3D-printed Adaptive padding, and the Argo Adaptive 00 is 7g/15g heavier than the longer & narrower Antares shape.

Review thoughts on durability

One of my biggest concerns with any 3D-printed saddle is how its open lattice structure will accumulate dirt & debris. The Argo Adaptive 00 certainly can pick up some mud and grime. And outside of the central cutout in the carbon shell, the dirt does collect in the open honeycomb.

I’ve been riding with Ass Savers’ latest Win Wing rear fender to keep heavy mud accumulation to a minimum. But I still have seen a few bit of dirt collecting in the open lattice of the padding. Interestingly enough (although maybe not really surprising), when I carefully turned my bike upside down after 3 or 4 mixed-surface rides, a lot more dry dirt fell out of the lattice than I could see when the bike was upright.

I’m not sure how that might impact long-term durability of the padding, as that capture dirt is sitting inside the lattice all the time, theoretically acting as an abrasive against the internal padding structure with every bump the saddle absorbs or every impact from my butt smashing down against the seat.

That said, the Fizik Vento Argo Adaptive 00 saddle is truly lightweight, and it really is comfortable, especially over mixed gravel & road riding. So, I guess I’m going to grind it to see what happens…

Fizik Vento Argo Adaptive 00 – Pricing, options & availability

It’s not cheap. Actually, it’s about as expensive as saddles get.

This 3D-printed full-carbon Fizik Vento Argo Adaptive 00 is available now for $400 / 400€, through partner shops or direct from Fizik. That’s $100€ more than the ever so slightly heavier Argo Adaptive R1, or $100€ more than the significantly lighter Argo 00 with conventional padding. It is literally the most expensive saddle that fi’zi:k sells. Whether you can justify that pricetag for the balance of supreme ergonomic comfort and a bit of weight savings is up to you.

I’m curious how it will survive the dirty life of mixed road and gravel riding, so I’ll certainly keep riding it.

Fizik.com

The post Fizik’s Most Versatile Saddle is 3D-Printed Vento Argo Adaptive 00 with 7x9mm Upgrade appeared first on Bikerumor.

The new SRAM Force AXS group sits somewhere between evolutionary and revolutionary, delivering premium performance at an agreeable price point. By taking the best features of Red and Rival and giving it a polished (and sparkly!) finish, SRAM gave its second-tier group new life on road and gravel.

I rode both the standard 2x road group and the 1x Force AXS XPLR gravel group at the launch, then had more time at home on the road bike before writing this. Here are my first impressions based on a couple hundred miles, starting with a direct comparison to the prior Force group.

2023 Force AXS vs. Force eTap

Beyond the sparkly Unicorn Gray finish and shimmering decals, the most obvious upgrade to the new Force group is the one-piece chainring. Borrowed directly from the top-tier SRAM Red group, it’s the same piece, just with a less expensive finish. This piece alone is responsible for saving most of the group’s weight over the prior eTap group, and it’s stiffer too.

Available with or without an integrated Quarq power meter, it’s also a great way to replace your Red chainring set and save a couple hundred bucks.

Ergonomically, the shifters and hoods are the biggest difference. The brake hoods are smaller with a slimmer diameter, making it easier to wrap my hands around it both on the flat part and curling a finger around the brake lever’s pivot.

Contrast this with the top, which is just a bit broader on the new Force AXS, giving me a bit more platform to rest on when I’m leaning way forward. While I like the micro-texture of the old version better, the new one’s grooves wrap further around the hood cover for more total grip.

The shift paddles get longer and taper at the bottom. The idea was to create a bigger contact patch when shifting, so it’s easier to find it no matter what your hand position or how rough the road is.

The angled lines are indented at an angle to create grip too — not just cosmetic.

The other goal was to create more finger clearance when pulling the brake lever deeper into its travel. Depending on your hand position, it sort of works, but the top of the paddle still gets pretty close and can trap my pinky in some situations, which means I can’t pull the lever all the way in.

The new shape is better in this regard, but only slightly. However, the increased contact patch is welcome and certainly doesn’t decrease finger clearance. Worth noting is that this problem of having fingers block full lever pull is not exclusive to SRAM.

And, considering the lever’s pivot point is a few millimeters closer to the bar, it’s now easier to reach the brakes from tops and drops and perform one-finger braking.

The new Force AXS loses the brake pad contact adjustment but keeps the lever reach adjustment (which is accessed from underneath, behind the brake lever).

Visually, the new Force AXS rear derailleur looks more polished and high-end, which has us wondering what a new Red group might look like.

2023 Force AXS Ride Review

General performance is on par with expectations. The rear shifts the same, which isn’t surprising since neither the derailleur nor cassette changed except for cosmetically. SRAM’s rear shifting remains solid and quick enough.

The noticeable improvements in performance come from the two things that did change: the levers and the chainrings. Shifts are just a bit easier to execute thanks to the increased paddle size, and the chain moves confidently between chainrings. Shifting under power, like on a climb or a sprint, is not just effortless but also satisfying.

I’ve been a fan of SRAM’s 13-tooth chainring jumps since they were introduced. While not dramatically different than most other 2x combos, the particular sizes it chose seem to work really well in conjunction with its cassette options to provide an adequate range on any given ride.

Technically, a smaller 10-tooth cog is less efficient, but I don’t spend a ton of time in it and haven’t noticed any undue wear on my long-term Red or Force Wide group. I have a new Force group coming in for long-term testing, but given the basically identical parts, I suspect it’ll hold up as well as the others I’ve been riding for the past few years.

I enjoyed the new, smaller brake hoods and closer pivot placement on the road. On group rides where I’m hovering a finger over the levers just in case, it makes it easier to comfortably maintain that position. And pulling the brake lever is easier, either with one finger or two.

The reach adjust is always appreciated too, as I like to bring my levers in a bit since I typically mount them toward the very top of the handlebar’s clamping area. This makes them easier to reach in general, but especially when riding in the drops, which is key on descents and rough gravel.

Despite being bigger (and, thus, having bigger hands), I’m enjoying the smaller grips, especially on gravel with the Force XPLR group. The “horns” at the very front are smaller now too, thanks to the missing pad contact adjustment, which makes them easier to rest my hands on top for a (very) short-term aero break.

I do like having the remote Blips. But I’m on the fence about being forced into using the fully wireless Blips where I can’t replace the batteries. Convenient? Yes. Eco-responsible? Not really. Fortunately, SRAM seems to be hearing this and, well, it’s “constantly evaluating rider’s needs and working on stuff.” That said, the little nub of a trigger is easier to feel and use than the round button of the wired version, but both have their place — at least until the next Red update, probably.

Overall, the new Force group is like a shinier, more affordable Red group with all the same technology and performance. You could buy this and upgrade to OS ceramic bearing pulleys and still come out ahead, or put the extra money into something like wheels or a carbon handlebar where you’ll notice more of a difference.

The beautiful and interesting thing about a launch like this that, at a glance, seems only incremental and cosmetic, is it shows just how good trickle-down tech is making second- and third-tier groups. And it makes me think SRAM is going to have to do something really special for the next Red group…

So, yes, the new Force group is great. And it looks great too.

Side Note: We Rode in Portugal

If you’re looking for somewhere awesome to ride, eat, surf, and possibly even retire, then … Portugal. Watts and I did a full week of gravel riding with Thomson Bike Tours, and the place is simply amazing. Endless roads, most with nearly perfect pavement and little traffic offer ribbons of mountainous routes with gravel service roads shooting off in every direction.

SRAM hired Fiona, owner of Echappee Portugal, to lead our rides and she’s amazing. Great routes, friendly local knowledge, and a very strong, skilled rider. Check her, or Thomson, out if you’re planning a trip and leave the ride logistics to the experts.

SRAM.com

The post First Rides: SRAM Force AXS & XPLR Groups Get All the Right Refinements appeared first on Bikerumor.